[Kreylyn]

<smack forehead> I didn't even think of the need to clean 'em. Should I adjust at all for altitude? I'm at 6000 feet.

Edit: How thick is this brass plug I need to drill out?

CV carbs "auto" adjust... no need to change settings for altitude.

The plug is like 1/8th or so thick... not to much, dril real real slow, they are just brass so not hard to drill out at all.

Krey

[nedfunnell]

CV carbs "auto" adjust... no need to change settings for altitude.

The plug is like 1/8th or so thick... not to much, dril real real slow, they are just brass so not hard to drill out at all.

Krey

Alright, well I know what I'm doing tonight. Thanks Krey!

[Wild-Bill]

CV carbs "auto" adjust... no need to change settings for altitude.

The plug is like 1/8th or so thick... not to much, dril real real slow, they are just brass so not hard to drill out at all.

Krey

If you've got a drill press it really helps to avoid going too far and digging up the screws. That's the big gotcha with removing the plugs. When you break through the plug there's a chance (especially with a hand-held drill) that you'll slip and run the drill bit into the end of the screw.

[nedfunnell]

I just did the A/F screws. I didn't go whole-hog with cleaning them, because I discovered that the two I checked were 1 to 1.5 turns out- is that really the factory setting? I gave a blast of carb cleaner to the screw and its socket because things looked really clean already. I reassembled with 2.5 turns of backout, and after a slightly scary throttle SNAFU* I was pleased with my first impression of the results- it starts quickly without choke and revs without hesitation. I didn't want to take it for a test ride at 10PM when I had a movie appointment coming up, so we'll have to wait until tomorrow to see if this fix is the real deal. I hope so!

I want to know who in the hell rode this bike for 36,500 miles without ever adjusting the A/F screws- I didn't think to mess with them because I mistakenly thought it was just for tuning, so I ignored them- but when I did them tonight I had to drill out the plugs. Phew! What do you all do to have peace of mind about the screws rattling loose and either changing the setting or falling out? My plugs came out as little rings so I put those back in as insurance- but do you all just leave them open?

*The throttle SNAFU was this- when I put the carbs back on for the first time today, I forgot to turn my intake boots so that the clamp screws were facing up. Oh well, went for it anyway. Pulled them off again just now and made sure to have the intake boot clamps turned with screws up for installation. Put everything back together and didn't notice that the throttle rack/bar/whatever was trying to turn through the space that the poorly-placed intake boot clamp was occupying. I fired it up, things were good, went to give it some throttle- huh, it's hard to turn. I turn it harder, and it goes- but doesn't come back down! Wheee! High revs. I killed it instantly, though. After taking apart the twist grip and checking the line for kinks, I finally saw the intake boot clamp issue.

[arsenic]

What do you all do to have peace of mind about the screws rattling loose and either changing the setting or falling out? My plugs came out as little rings so I put those back in as insurance- but do you all just leave them open?

I just drill the plugs off, set the A/F screws and call it a day. I've never seen them rattle all the way out in the history of forever.

[Kreylyn]

The spring puts enough pressure on the screws that they should not budge once set. Same thing for the sync screws.

Krey

[nedfunnell]

Alright, I test rode it today and I think this issue is fixed. I have others I need to take care of, but I think the carbs are good.

The idle is really high, like 3000 RPM. My guess is that the PO adjusted it to try and deal with the previous issue and now it's too high. I just need to pull it down. I think the carbs were supposed to have a mechanism to help adjust the idle- that is, a cable or linkage or something that makes the screw more accessible- mine doesn't have that. The PO just stuck a short length of what looks like spark plug lead on it, but it doesn't do a very good job. Anybody got a tip on adjusting the idle screw when the linkage/mechanism/whatever is absent?

The bike only runs well when the petcock is on prime. The simple test of applying mouth suction to the petcock makes fuel flow well. Perhaps I'm not getting suction on the vacuum line from the engine? Something I'm missing, anyone?

[willbdish]

I have an 88 600 also , are you sure you have the right vacuum line going to the tank ? I had about the same issue with mine ,rebuilt cabs - no help. Then I found out the PO had the vacuum lines miss routed. Move some lines and she runs great. If you PM me I can send a picture of the cabs and lines...

[nedfunnell]

PM sent!

I have an 88 600 also , are you sure you have the right vacuum line going to the tank ? I had about the same issue with mine ,rebuilt cabs - no help. Then I found out the PO had the vacuum lines miss routed. Move some lines and she runs great. If you PM me I can send a picture of the cabs and lines...