Help pleeez!

[blkpitbull]

Ok I just adjusted my valves on a 98 750. It was the 15000 mile adjust ment and I didnt do the 7500 mile adjsutment. Everything went smooth and it starts much easier and revs alot better. But now when you rev it really high and the rpms are dropping they slow at around 3500 down to idle. It doesnt dip blow idle then come back up, but just slows on its was down to idle starting at 3500. It may supposed to do this and now its right since the adjustment. It doesnt stop it just slows down to idle. BTW it idles smooth. Does anyone have any input on this?????? Is it right wrong????

Btw I checked the airbox and its on good, no vac leaks nowhere. And the throttle cables are free and not bound in any way!!!


Thanks
Todd

[md86]

Change the pilot settings any ? That usually changes how fast MINE will return to idle .

[SweetLou]

Maybe the carbs now need to be adjusted since there were adjustments made to the valves????

Where the valves way off, or wher they pretty close?

[The CyberPoet]

Throttle cables were reattached too tight and lack of slack is causing them to bind a little in the sheaths, which is what is causing them to hang a bit as they drop back down. Loosen the throttle cables and the problem will disappear. Although there are specific specs, I find the simple way to set them right is to listen -- loosen them, then start tightening them back up. After each adjustment, open the throttle (engine off) and let go. Find the tightest setting that you can that will still give you an audible snap from the carbs when you release (anything tighter than that means it's slowing as the butterflies close because of drag).

PS - you also need to do a carb sync to keep the power smooth.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[blkpitbull]

Throttle cables were reattached too tight and lack of slack is causing them to bind a little in the sheaths, which is what is causing them to hang a bit as they drop back down. Loosen the throttle cables and the problem will disappear. Although there are specific specs, I find the simple way to set them right is to listen -- loosen them, then start tightening them back up. After each adjustment, open the throttle (engine off) and let go. Find the tightest setting that you can that will still give you an audible snap from the carbs when you release (anything tighter than that means it's slowing as the butterflies close because of drag).

PS - you also need to do a carb sync to keep the power smooth.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

Spot on Mr. poet. It was the throttle cables. Im have trouble getting them adjust like they were before I diconnected them. Ill adjust them at the bar and seems like its working. Start the bike, rev it and it does fine a few times and drags other times. Lube???? I just got some lube this afternoon before I went to work, so i'll have to try that tommorrow. So I know its the throttle cable adjust ment but Im have a hell of a time getting it fine tuned. Maybe the lube will help......

Thanks BTW

[The CyberPoet]

Spot on Mr. poet. It was the throttle cables. Im have trouble getting them adjust like they were before I diconnected them. Ill adjust them at the bar and seems like its working. Start the bike, rev it and it does fine a few times and drags other times. Lube????

Maybe lube. If it works sometimes and then drags others, they're probably still slightly too tight (if the RPM's at idle increase at all when you rotate the bars all the way to the left and/or right, they're still too tight). There are also major slack adjusters at the carb end, which if you changed their positions when you undid the cables to get at the valve cover may have made the range of adjustment at the throttle end insufficient to give you what you need.

Good Luck!
=-= The CyberPoet

[md86]

I always overlook the easy solutions .

[blkpitbull]

Ok took the tank, and intake box back off for access. Took the cables completely off and lubed them good. Put it all back together and walla. works great.

Thanks Guys!!!