[BareKat]

K, here are some pics of the bearings and crank... no major damage.

More pics here: http://s879.photobucket.com/albums/a.../Katana/crank/

[HemiKat]

There's some pretty decent wear on a few of those bearings. They arent down to the lead yet but that is still probably enough to cause an issue. Are all the rod pins tight?

[BareKat]

Yep, no real slop or play that I can detect... this motor has 45,000kms

Attached is a list of parts recommended by the shop that split the case for me.

[HemiKat]

If I was doing the work, I would have wrote it up the same way. You may as well just rebuild the whole thing and not take any chances, instead of replacing just one worn piece.

The prices are a little high, but im sure they added in the typical 45% upcharge to make thir profit. Cant blame them for trying to make money. $1000 in labor seems a little far fetched. Thats about 15hrs in labor, should prolly be more like 10.

[hardlydangerous]

Yep, no real slop or play that I can detect... this motor has 45,000kms

Attached is a list of parts recommended by the shop that split the case for me.

chances are you dont need new head bolts... I assume thats whay .bolt is...

as for the bearings you need to plasti-guage them. depending on clearance , you order the bearings you need. Different color/thickness for different clearances.

[kevin2502000]

What hardly said about the plasti-gauge, +1. Remember your picture at the beginning of this thread where you could see shiny copper flecs in the oil? That is bearing wear, they are made out of copper. Somewhere in that motor you have copper flaked off enough to make it knock. Remember to look at both side, and both halves of each bearing. The manual will tell you how to plasti-gage and read it.

[BareKat]

Well to put a nice tidy bow on this who story, my replacement engine is working very well right now. It looks like the old engine will be stored for a parts motor.

woohoo... summer riding is almost here!