Q: Broken spark plug removal ?

[katanarider]

Spark plug broke off in the head while doing a tune up and only the threads are still inside the head. Has anyone ever had this problem and resolved it without removing the head?

I order the NGK iridiums off of ebay for $28/4 plugs. I think they could possibly be imitations or a manufactures defect?
I did not put much pressure at all on this last NEW plug. I used a bending bar type of torque wrench on 3 of the plugs and torqued them to 8 FT LBs. I thought I read some where 8lbs was the right spec.
On the last plug I just used my hand because I still had the right side fairing on. I put less than 8LBs on the handle but it snapped.
I put a good amount of anti-seize on the threads before installation. Is this going to be a engine swap job now?

[steves]

http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=83992

http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1193010.page

You can find out which plugs are for what bike here:

http://katriders.com/wiki/index.php5?title=Spark_Plug

It's possible you ordered the wrong plugs.

[Slofuze]

I'm pretty sure you can still get the plug out of where it's seated and then use a set of long needle-nosed pliers to fish them out. I truly don't think you have to pull the head off. Just my thoughts.

[KAT TOY]

large screw extractor-EZ Out should work

[DHolzwarth]

I had exactly the same thing happen to me recently. (NGK, proper plug, brand new.) Torqued three plugs correctly using a click-torque wrench. Fourth plug broke at approx 8 lbs. Snapped the insulator in two, leaving the metal threads in place in the head. Is that what happened to you?

I put a large blade screw driver into the hole, set it against the tang, and SLOWLY applied pressure. Surprisingly, it worked. Thank god for anti-seize. Without it, screw extractor, heli-coil, etc, seemed the only way.

Look at it this way...you really have nothing to lose now, so try it.

On examination, the sealing ring was NOTfully compressed, so I know this was a bad plug. I think the threads were machined too closely, there wasn't enough material left after cutting the thread, and it sheared. When I showed to the guys at the parts desk, they all said "Nah, seen anything like that, at least, not one that could be removed with a screw driver."

Maybe NGK does have a bad run of plugs out there?


DHolzwarth

[katanarider]

The only thing that broke off was the threaded area. The rest of the plug came out. There is a hole in the threaded area and nothing fell into the engine. As for the compression ring. It looks like it compressed some. I feel so confident that I did NOT pull more than the the 8lbs as I did on the other 3 plugs. The reason why I say that is on the torque wrench I turned the plug maybe a half turn further than finger tight. On this last plug I didnt even make it a 1/4 turn.

I'm thinking Japan just has some crappy metal. My friend has a couple of scooters which are made in Japan. The metal they use to build some of the parts seems to be low quality. He has had several parts fail due to soft metal. I think I'll research another name brand plug for future sake.

I've already started disassmbling the bike now. I just happen to have another engine I found on Craigslist with 12,000 miles from a 2001 Kat. Its been in storage ever since I bought my bike. I knew I would need that motor one day.

[steves]

I've got plugs in stock and ready to ship out. Check the KR store http://katriders.com/vb/sales.php

[katanarider]

steve... I get a message saying page is broken.
Anyway, I know how to access the store. But, those look to be NGKs too. I really dont want a NGK at this moment

[DHolzwarth]

Well, I didn't write my explanation very well, but my problem was exactly the same as yours. Except I was using the standard JR9C plug, not the Iridium.

Pulling towards 8 ft lbs, then a sudden a give. Whole plug was still in the plug wrench, all except for the threads, which remained in the hole.

I was able to remove the threads by running a screwdriver down through the threads and through the electrodes, and then backing it out using the electrodes as the screw slot. Did this by hand, another reason why I am convinced I HAD NOT exceeded 8 ft lbs torque.

An E-Z out might actually be better if you can get one down into that hole and still grip it. I didn't have one even close to being usable.

Of course, if the electrodes break off, the head probably will have to come off, just to fish the pieces out of the cylinder.

I figured I just had one bad plug, so I put another in. I have used NGK plugs for a long time, with no issues before. But now, I am wondering about an alternate plug too.

Good luck.

DHolzwarth

[steves]

NGK is the plug specified by Suzuki for the bike

[Mozzy]

sounds very nutty.. but.. aparently, there are two nutty guys on here. Let us know how you make out.