[adlboo]

Already adjusted it and lever has play around cable end. Lubed the cable, theres no stiction of the cable it moves freely. Any other ideas?

[doomed_preacher]

I just dont get it clutch shouldnt quit slipping after its warmed up unless the plates are expanding with heat , and that means they are too thin , mis adjusted, or springs are weak did you replace the springs when you did the friction plates and another thing i picked up racing quads and mx i would never just change friction plates i go for the complete clutch kits springs and steel plates as well


Another thing is if i read your post correctly you have been riding that clutch for 600 miles, are you a slipper anyway lol , i mean ive seen clutches worn out in a matter of a few hours on mx bikes from guys that like them slipping in the corners so i could see a clutch worn out in 600 miles if its slightly misadjusted and slipped alot during normal riding

[adlboo]

No I only replaced the fiber clutches, read here that replacing the springs was unnecessary... I dont normally slip the clutch either... Has me confused too... Maybe i'll get new springs and see if those change anything...

[doomed_preacher]

springs wear out i would never say its unnecessary

[hardlydangerous]

huh !
I don't mean to sound like an azz but there really is no way of sayin this without coming off like a real prick.

but really you did a halfazzed job and it cost you 3X more then it should have. I see backyard mechanics, guys that have been mechanics for 40 years do this all the time and even factory trained mechanics.

When rebuilding a clutch you can NEVER ASSUME that all you need to do is replace the friction plates. EVER.
There is a lot involved in clutch repair that 95% of people overlook

For starters when it first started slipping and you tore into it...did you
1 check push rod adjustment or push rod for damage
2 check the pressure plate for wear
3 check the steels for wear
4 check the steel for warps
5 inspect condition of friction plates for glazing or damage
6 inspect judder spring and seats (98+)
7 check the clutch basket for notching
8 check the thickness of each friction plate for wear
9 inspec and re-grease push rod actuator (cam)
10 properly measure clutch springs
11 check idle bearing for damage
These are just some of the things usually over looked...

If you rode it without adjusting it properly first and or continued to ride it with the clutch slipping the plates are likely beyond toasted by now and will need to be replaced again along with the steels and possibly new springs. All that heat from a slipping clutch and over heating the plates will weeken clutch springs even if they measure within specs.

my advice is grab a manual and start over,
If it was my bike... I would buy new pressure plate, steels and friction plates, springs and file out any notches in the clutch basket, Also check the idle bearing for any play.
I don't normally use the judder spring (aka wave washer) and seat in the 98+ bikes but thats up to you. They can be emilinated and replaced with a standard clutch plate like all the rest.
then tear apart the actuator (cam) for the clutch push rod and grease it well and then properly adjust the push rod like i said. Back it off several turns, turn it in until you start to feel resistance. the back it off 1/2 turn and lock it down with the lock nut.
then adjust the cable free play.

If you don't do it this way you will need to carefull measure each plate for preoper thickness, measure each plate for warps, measure the springs etc. i don't know if the manual has any specs for the pressure plate or not but if it does check it as well.
then check all the other things I listed.


FWIW The clutch stops slipping when it heats up not because the plates are too thin and expand...when the plates over heat they basically get so hot they fry the oil between them ans seize together and lock up. I've have seen many clutches actually explode in the basket from getting so hot and so much heat and friction when allowed to slip for too long.
Then you are looking at a new engine or spending hundreds of hours cleaning every corner and oil passage in the engine, and replacing parts like the oil pump and cooler etc.

[squiggy]

When I seviced my clutch, I replaced the fibers, metal plates and the springs. I figure I will already have this thing apart so I might as well do it once the first time.

The basket was changed the second time around.

[adlboo]

If you rode it without adjusting it properly first and or continued to ride it with the clutch slipping the plates are likely beyond toasted by now and will need to be replaced again along with the steels and possibly new springs. All that heat from a slipping clutch and over heating the plates will weeken clutch springs even if they measure within specs.

The OP burnt out the first clutch, thats why I replaced the fibers, and this prolly explains why it started strong and is now slipping...

my advice is grab a manual and start over,
If it was my bike... I would buy new pressure plate, steels and friction plates, springs and file out any notches in the clutch basket, Also check the idle bearing for any play.
I don't normally use the judder spring (aka wave washer) and seat in the 98+ bikes but thats up to you. They can be emilinated and replaced with a standard clutch plate like all the rest.
then tear apart the actuator (cam) for the clutch push rod and grease it well and then properly adjust the push rod like i said. Back it off several turns, turn it in until you start to feel resistance. the back it off 1/2 turn and lock it down with the lock nut.
then adjust the cable free play.

If you don't do it this way you will need to carefull measure each plate for preoper thickness, measure each plate for warps, measure the springs etc. i don't know if the manual has any specs for the pressure plate or not but if it does check it as well.
then check all the other things I listed.

Yeah I have the Haynes manual and will prolly end up replacing everything you mention...