[cleankat96]

Tweaking under them plugs means someone didn't know WTF they were doing . There IS no tweaking except to change jets , which is usually pretty dumb ....

yeah i know that which is why i want to know if i should replace them i noticed it when i took the carbs apart to clean them- i would like some advice on it asap so i can order parts if i have to- po WAS an IDIOT he used bathroom silicone to seal the float bowlsPO

[kevin2502000]

If they don't look right replace them. Those right there are your idle.

[quik89Kat]

How about a carb sync ?
that would also make it not idle ...If you adjusted the screws that stick up between the carbs and the cynder head you need to sync them with a tool like the carb tune or motion pro sync tool if you dont you will never get it to run right especially after a rebuild...

It will not run great without an airbox ?
But my 1100 Kat runs fine with K&N pods, it wont affect idle at all to idle without an airbox...The airbox isnt as critical in a kat as it is in a ram air type bike like the zx7r's or gsxrs the only thing critical in that system is the float bowls need to be vented to the airbox to equalize float bowl pressure In a ram air type system at higher speeds ....

Also by tweakin the pilot/air fuel screws you can obtain better idle/low cruise power givin your elevation and changes in weather and fuel grade


Taken from the factory pro website:
4. Idle and low rpm cruise

• • Fuel Screw setting (AKA mixture screws)
    • There is usually a machined brass or aluminum cap over the fuel screws on all but newer Honda. It's about the diameter of a pencil. Cap removal details. Newer Honda carbs have no caps, but use a special "D" shaped driver, usually supplied in the carb recal kit. We do have them available separately, too. 800 869-0497 to order -
  • Set for smoothest idle and 2nd gear, 4k rpm, steady state cruise operation. Set mixture screws at recommended settings, as a starting point. For smoothest idle, 2nd gear 4000 rpm steady state cruise , and 1/8 throttle high rpm operation. (pj tuning information)
  • Pilot fuel mixture screw settings, float level (but, you've "fixed" the fuel level in Step 3 - which you have already done!) AND pilot jet size are the primary sources of mixture delivery during 4000 rpm steady state cruise operation.
    • If lean surging is encountered, richen mixture screws (turn out) in 1/2 turn increments. Alternative pilot jets are supplied when normally required.
    • Pilot fuel mixture screw settings, float level and pilot jet size also affect high-rpm, 0 to 1/8 throttle maneuvers. Too lean, will cause surging problems when the engine is operated at high rpm at small throttle openings! Opening the mixture screws and/or increasing pilot jet size will usually cure the problem.
      • NOTE: A rich problem gets worse as the engine heats up.
        • If the throttle is lightly "blipped" at idle, and the rpm drops below the set idle speed, then rises up to the set idle speed, the low speed mixture screws are probably set too rich: try 1/2 turn in, to lean the idle mixture.
      • NOTE: A lean problem gets better as the engine heats up.
        • If the throttle is lightly "blipped" at idle, and the rpm "hangs up" before dropping to the set idle speed, and there are no intake leaks and the idle speed is set at less than 1000 rpm, the mixture screws are probably too lean: try 1/2 turn out, to richen mixture. Be sure there are no intake leaks and the idle speed is set at less than 1000 rpm!

[cleankat96]

well i just ordered some new pilot jets and new o-rings for the mixture screw so when i get those and the air filter installed ill try it again, good news is on choke it starts right up, smokes a little bit but its been probably somewhere between 2-3 years since shes run so i think some smoke would be normal