[Newbie2it]

Nah, you'll blow it in a few posts.

Cheers mate LOL

[ellshorty]

ok so update....

i tooke the carbs to every shop i could find in the area (10 total) and they all said that they couldn't get it out. So i looked for carbs on the internet, got some carbs that said they were from a 750... turns out they were from 600. they line up with the engine intakes, but will they be able to provide enough fuel for the bigger engine?

[arsenic]

no, the 600 carbs are 33mm, the 750 carbs are 36mm. You'll have massive vaccum leaks there.

[rydethis]

yeah I don't see any pics of a pilot stripping!!! The title of this thread is very misleading

[ellshorty]

can i shim the ports with a rubber gasket or something? what i was really imploring was if they have the potential to deliver enough fuel to make it run

[arsenic]

you can use the 600 boots on the head, then you'll need a 600 air box. Can I ask why you would want to run something meant for a 600 (different bore AND stroke) on a 750. Do you know what kind of a tuning nightmare you're in for?

[ellshorty]

thats sort of waht i was feeling out...i have already invested a little money and serious amounts of time cleaning them (they were left out for a bit and were super rusty). If it is that big of a task to make it work then i will just buy another rack (the right size).after i killed the original rack, i bought a second kat for parts($300 on CL!!), but it ended up being better than the one i started with (and runs sweetly btw) so now i am trying to get the original running good enough to sell it, potentially with the part taht i already ordered.

to amke a long story short, i wanted to use the wrong carbs becasue i already had them, and im trying to get the original running for the least amount of money.

[arsenic]

aluminum and brass doesn't rust

[Kreylyn]

600 carbs will "work". It's not optimal, but I HAVE put them on a 750 for about 3 months. Very little difference but there were differences, but I did not do any different tunning on them either as they were temp while cleaning/repairing the originals.

Again, they will work, but it is NOT optimal. You will have a slight difference in performance. Factory items were made the way they are for a reason.

Krey

BTW, to clarify.. Don't do it, if you don't absolutely have too.

[ellshorty]

i am aware that aluminum and brass dont rust, but the bowl and vaccum cover screws are steel so they rusted over everything, also the choke lever i think. anyway im going to try to get rid of teh carbs, i also just ordered a new 750 rack so that should be in in a week

[arsenic]

PM me how much you paid for the 600 carbs, I'll buy them

[arsenic]

600 carbs SOLD!!

[ellshorty]

thanks for helping me get rid of those arsenic

[ellshorty]

ok so update...i finally got 750 rack, cleaned it as per carb 101 thread, then installed on the bike. It started up good, purrs like a kitten, and has great acceleration...till about 5k-6k rpm, then it stargs surging and lurching, as if it isn't firing on all cylinders. When revving out of gear, it kind of gets stuck at the 5k-6k range then blows through it, however when it is in gear, crossing the 5-6k plane causes the bogging as before mentioned. It has pod filters ( i know the air box is better but that is waht i have right now). Is the problem coming down to the pod filters or is it something completely different? Thanks for the insight in advance guys!! (and gals)

[Trackerrrr]

yeah I don't see any pics of a pilot stripping!!! The title of this thread is very misleading

My first good laugh of the the day, thanks ryde!