[steves]

Thanks for everybody's input. I have a little bit of mechanical experience, it doesn't seem like it would be too hard to swap out for a new chain and sprockets. How hard is it to do?

Depends on your mechanical ability and the tools you have access to.

http://www.motorcycleanchor.com/katana/trinc/sprocket/sprocket.htm

[The CyberPoet]

This is what I have been using...

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/4/22/269/5768/ITEM/Bel-Ray-Super-Clean-Chain-Lube.aspx?SITEID=Yahoo_Bel-Ray_Super_Clean_Chain_Lube&WT.mc_ID=10002&WT.srch=1

I put it on every other day that I ride the bike (approx 200 miles) and kerosene the chain with a moose scrubber every 1000 miles, or after it rains, then relube.

I've never used their chain lubes (the only Bel-Ray product I've ever used is their fork oil, and probably won't again), but you can see from your own experiences that this product obviously isn't a superior product for your purposes. Either that, or it's a reasonable lube and you just kept over-tightening the chain beyond what you should have (1-1/8th inches of total play is ideal for a good, healthy lifespan on the Kat -- measured on the centerstand with the rear wheel hanging down)

Now, to examine the lube a bit more:
According to the MSDS sheet for this product, it's got 15% to 20% zinc in it (combined with a liquified petroleum gas). Zinc is by no means an ideal first-line lubricant for steel on steel/aluminum contact; zinc is always a fall-back lubricant for when the petrol-based lube fails, to prevent seizing. That tells me they expect it the petrol-based lube aspect of the product to fail...

But far more importantly, they certify in their MSDS sheet that the product is certified Kosher!

//RANT ON//
I don't know what it is about everyone that they want to keep their chains so damn neat and their bikes fling-free. Chains are supposed to be oiled; oil flings and in the process takes dust, debris and crap with it. The side-effect is that it goes places we would prefer it didn't. Live with it, or clean a bit more, or get a longer chain guard... I've never seen a no-fling product that worked particularly well to lubricate a chain (some "little fling" products, but never a product marketed as "no fling")
//RANT OFF//

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[Zepp]

Time for a chain and maybe a sprocket too.

[Salz07]

Now, to examine the lube a bit more:
According to the MSDS sheet for this product, it's got 15% to 20% zinc in it (combined with a liquified petroleum gas). Zinc is by no means an ideal first-line lubricant for steel on steel/aluminum contact; zinc is always a fall-back lubricant for when the petrol-based lube fails, to prevent seizing. That tells me they expect it the petrol-based lube aspect of the product to fail...

CP,
I use the same thing. I'm going to buy a new chain soon. What do recommend as far as a good lube?

[The CyberPoet]

Permatex chain lube (permatex product #80075) is the best I've found in a spray-can to date; least amount of chain wear outside using an actual automated chain oiler & if applied regularly, 30k miles out of a Kat chain before you get even half-way to 1mm pull distance at the rear sprocket. This stuff comes out as a foamed oil reminiscent of LPS-2 in my mind, and thickens up to a heavy-weight (180 weight?) gear oil with only light fling tendencies once set.
Bonuses is that the can will fit under the seat (easy to remember to lube -- spray a length of chain each time you take on fuel), and being an oil, it will fling away dirt & debris. Available via many auto parts stores, sometimes KMart and online via Amazon & Midway Auto, among others ($3.50 a can). A case of the stuff will last you a lifetime.

Suzuki's SP-4 chain lube is particularly good for chains that have seen better days (does an amazing job of freeing up stuck links), and I've seen commercial equivilents sold at auto parts stores as huge, almost generic cans of "teflon-inclusive chain oil" (note: spray is black in color), but it isn't nice after 100 miles, tacking up into a nasty mess, including on anything it flings onto.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[Salz07]

Vielen Dank

[privatepastry]

I took apart the whole left side of my kat and it should be pretty easy to swap out the sprockets and chain. How much oil do I need to put on a new chain?

[The CyberPoet]

Most chains come coated with LPS-3 or grease, so they don't rust in transit & storage. At that point, I simply coat it with a paint brush & used motor oil, letting it drip freely, but many people wash the chain to get the grease off before it flings on their bikes...

Once free of most/all of the grease, it depends on what you're using.
Used motor oil (hey, good to recycle) - brush on, allow excess to drip off (put bike on sidestand!)
gear oil - same application as motor oil
Permatex - first coating I do is 45 - 60 seconds with bike on the centerstand and running in 1st gear at idle (rag in left hand 6" below the chain, can in right hand 6" above the chain, spray; start rotating once you get to the 30 second mark to get the backside & outsides of the links too). I reapply like this each time I wash the chain; when taking on gas, I hit it for only 10 - 12 seconds, concentrating on the rollers specifically.
Other brands of chain lube - until you can physically see a light layer built up, or whatever the can instructs you to.

KNOW THIS:
If possible, always spray your chain lube on AFTER riding. The chain will be warm and the lube will spread better, plus any aerosols in the lube will evaporate a whole lot faster (less contact time with the seals).

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[PilotC150]

I looked in the fiche but wasn't able to find prices for the chain and/or sprokets.

Where do you get a new one?

I don't know for sure if I need one, but I doubt it's ever been taken care of for the past 7 years.

[DumbLuck]

i haunt E-Bay when it comes to alot of parts. I picked up my RK chain and sprocket set, stock size, new in the factory package for $60 plus shipping. Admitedly, pretty darn lucky. List at Leo's in Lakeville was about $180. I absolutely love Leo's customer service and parts people. Dennis Kirk isnt bad either, but they aint the cheapest. they're just up in forest lake if you want to pick up (give them half hour notice to pull your order), otherwize, free shipping over $100, and should be delivered next day for you

[The CyberPoet]

I normally order the same RK/Vortex combo kit (steel sprockets, OEM tooth counts) from BikeBandit. But if you can find a great deal on eBay and have the time to wait (to find such a deal), why not?

Don't go aluminum, don't go 520 chains.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[PilotC150]

i haunt E-Bay when it comes to alot of parts. I picked up my RK chain and sprocket set, stock size, new in the factory package for $60 plus shipping. Admitedly, pretty darn lucky. List at Leo's in Lakeville was about $180. I absolutely love Leo's customer service and parts people. Dennis Kirk isnt bad either, but they aint the cheapest. they're just up in forest lake if you want to pick up (give them half hour notice to pull your order), otherwize, free shipping over $100, and should be delivered next day for you

Leo's is just about 5-8 miles down the road from me, but they're a bit slow on some things. When I needed new petcock it was going to take them 14 days to get it to me. I ordered it online and got it much quicker.

CP, I'll checkout BikeBandit.com for that RK/Vortex kit you're talking about if it turns out I need new parts. Thanks.