Fuel gauge is off...

[Dexter]

Do these fuel gauges often read incorrectly? I picked up the bike last weekend, the gauge read empty (in the red). I rode to the gas station and it looked like there was still at least 1/4 in there. So I put a full tank in (it only took 12 liters) but the gauge only reads 3/4.

Is this a common problem and an easy fix?

BTW... does anyone have a bulb number for the dash bulbs? I have to replace one in the tach.

[md86]

DOn't remember the bulb number , but I'm pretty sure it's been posted before , and POSSIBLY by ME , as I've changed a few .
Now , depending on what the problem with the fuel tanks ..... COULD be a cruddy connection , in which case you clean and put back together . COULD be the float arm is bent , in which case you take it out and bend it , kinda like in your toilet .
COULD be a hole in the float itself , so it don't float as well as it should .
If it's been that way as long as you had it , I'd go with bent float arm .
Here , got curious and did some looking myself , but just GIVING you the answer would be too easy .....

http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=60010&highlight=gauge+bulb

http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=67479&highlight=gauge+bulb

http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=64205&highlight=gauge+bulb

[Newbie2it]

Well, Two (albeit 3) things come to mind.

1. Its possible that the float might have come partially off the end of the float arm, Since your saying the fuel level changed when you added more petro. That means that the sender itsself is still mostly funtional.

2. Without knowing the history of the bike, Its possible that the bike sat quite a while and possibly accumulated moisture, to which has now affected the sender contacts. In this case, the sender unit might come back to life with constant fuel level changes.. but theres no promise there.

3. Not likely, but you could go over your electrical connections. Just to make sure they are clean.


As for # 1, you can get a small inspection type of mirror to be able to get a peek at the actual float within the tank. If the tank float is horizontal to the float arm and is floating freely (not hitting the wall of the tank) then its presumed # 2 would apply.

As for # 2, If moisture has affected the contacts within the sender, it might be easier to replace the sending unit. Repeted changes in fuel levels might help clear the contacts, you might also be able to take it apart to do so, Not sure, I've never tried that route. However, I would suggest keeping track of Miles vs. gallons so you dont get caught short till you build confidence on the cleaned guage.

If it's been that way as long as you had it , I'd go with bent float arm .

His history of the bike spans all of a week

"I picked up the bike last weekend"

[md86]

Missed that part .

[Black_peter]

I would just ignore it.
Getting to read right by fiddling with it is pretty impossible. Electrical connections most likely will not result in bad readings. (no reading yes..)
Moisture is not likely to effect a device meant to be submerged in gasoline.


If you were really low it's possible the gas shifted in the tank (the tank has baffles). Were you on reserve?

Honestly I don't know why I keep mine. More work then it's worth.

[Dexter]

If you were really low it's possible the gas shifted in the tank (the tank has baffles). Were you on reserve?

The bike was on reserve when I picked it up, but I switched it back to On and it ran just fine all the way to the gas station. I didn't ride it much after that, it was pretty cold.

I suppose it's possible the cold could have an affect on it, it was below freezing. I'll check it again when I start it in the warmer weather. I've got a full set of inspection mirrors too, so I'll poke around inside the tank when the fuel level goes down a bit (it's full now).

As for removing the sending unit, does it come off from the bottom? If so, will I need to order the gasket before I pull it apart? Also, should I wait until the tank is pretty close to empty before attempting to remove it?

[Black_peter]

As for removing the sending unit, does it come off from the bottom? If so, will I need to order the gasket before I pull it apart? Also, should I wait until the tank is pretty close to empty before attempting to remove it?

Yes to all.. Except I do not recommend trying to "adjust" the sender.
It is possible that you shifted gas off the baffle to allow you to switch to ON..

[Dexter]

Yes to all.. Except I do not recommend trying to "adjust" the sender.
It is possible that you shifted gas off the baffle to allow you to switch to ON..

It's my last resort. If all else fails I'm going to try cleaning up the contacts. If that doesn't work, I'll get a new (or used) one probably.

[Black_peter]

Oh, I guess I just don't get hung up on the gauge. Rode for 15 years without one.

[md86]

I suppose it's possible the cold could have an affect on it

No .

[Dexter]

All is well now... I found the connections to be loose between the sending unit and the wiring harness. I suppose it shouldn't have been a surprise to me, almost every bullet style connection on this bike has been loose so far...

[Newbie2it]

MD wins the award on that one then, He called it first. BTW, where is the little country bumpkin, Havent seen him since he got his nose readjusted and moved to the woods. Anyone set him up yet with dialup via the local pine tree?

[Dexter]

Well... my relief was premature. The needle still doesn't go all the way to full.

When does everyone switch to reserve? I want to know if it's when the needle is at the top of the red zone or the bottom.

[2000kat600]

As worn out as my Kat is one thing that remains very accurate is my fuel gauge, it's been precise all these years.

I wish I could say the same for my '14, the digital fancy fuel gauge display gives me unusable information, I gather better data from the fuel range display option that the fuel quantity in the tank.

Go Kat's fuel gauges!!!

[The CyberPoet]

When does everyone switch to reserve? I want to know if it's when the needle is at the top of the red zone or the bottom.

I switch to reserve if she runs out of fuel on "ON".

I've owned four 98+ Kats so far, and each one of them was different in how the fuel gauge read -- one hit reserve below the start of the red, one hit reserve right at the end of red, one hit it in the middle of red, and I'm not sure about the one I've got right now (still new to me), but I suspect it'll hit it about 2/3rds of the way through red. The trip odometer is a better accuracy gauge for me, and old experiences taught me to always use it for fuel, in case the fuel-gauge fails (although to be fair, I've never had a fuel gauge fail on a Kat).

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet