Adjusting brake sensativity on 92 Kat

[VFRstar]

I'm wondering if there is a way to adjust the sensativity of the rear brake on a 92 kat?

My rear locks up far too easy. I'm an experienced rider and was able to adjust to the brake and never had a problem with it for the 4 years I rode it. I bought a 2006 VFR and don't ride the kat much anymore. But now my wife wants to learn to ride the kat. While it would be a good bike to learn on, I'm a little concerned about how easy it is to lock up the brake, especially under stress. I've ridden my friends 06 Kat 750, his brakes are fine. Even he rode my kat and the first thing he did was lock up the rear stopping at a red light.

So my question is, is there anyway to make it less sensative so she doesn't lock it up and hurt both of them?

I worry about her, but I worry about the kat too. It's 15 years old and has never been dropped or layed down. I tried to talk her into a scooter, but she said no. lol

[md86]

Maybe someone put HH pads in the rear ......

[Newbie2it]

Since the bikes been sitting for sometime without being ridden, you might have gotten crap build into the pads and rotor surface. I would suggest getting a can of Brake Kleen and a soft brush and go at the disk, Make sure to get in the holes too since if there is some sort of contanimation, it might weep out in the future. You could also try cleaning the pads themselves, lightly scuff them with fine emerycloth just to take any possible junk away from the surface. One other suggestion as well, Whens the last time you changed the fluid? Might have water contanimation, The resivoir should be clear, not carmel color as you know.

Just a few thoughts off the top of my head on the brakes.

Oh, One more thing, betware with the brakeKleen and plastics and some painted surfaces, Just thought I would mention that warning

[VFRstar]

I should have put this in my first post.

The brakes have been like this since I bought it 7 years ago. I've changed the pads since then. The fluid may need to be flushed, but it never occured ot me that the fluid would cause this problem.

Come to think of it, I changed the pads when I replaced the tires back when I first bought it. Might be something I did.

If this braking isn't normal, then I'll tear into the complete system and flush all the fluid while I'm at it.

Thanks for the replies.

[The CyberPoet]

If you haven't changed the fluid in a year, change the fluid (flush it out). I sell SpeedBleeder kits for the Kat that will make the process very easy, especially the next time around. Details on the SpeedBleeders here: http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=58596

Given your symptoms (rear locks too easily), it would be my opinion that the peddle is set too high. The ideal placement for the brake peddle is such that your foot can't lock the rear completely without coming off the peg (that's different positions for different riders because of how their legs are & where their feet sit). You can adjust the lever by using the adjuster screw-n-nut adjustment coming off the master cylinder. It's quite a PIA to get to on the Kats (I remove the heel guard and sometimes the shock and/or wheel to do it), but it can be done. Items 5 & 6 in this fiche file are what gets adjusted to make it happen:

http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/300_0298/rear_master_cylinder/rear_master_cylinder.cfm?man=su&groupid=4880&parent=4850

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[thetable]

Is it possible that the pedal just has inadequate free play. I have seen in a couple places where the equalization port clogs up due to old fluid and inactivity and the master cylinder has absolutely no play. It will also cause the brakes to drag.

[Black_peter]

Keep in mind that the Kat rears lock easy.
Checking for HH pads might not be a bad idea.
A good cleaning/flushing might not make them bite less but make bite more smoothly. While the rear will lock easily it should lock smoothly and predictably. I suspect the issue might be you not being used to them. I know unless I keep using the rear often I'll use them one day and lock them up..

[GytRDunKat]

Just don't use the rear

I adjusted mine so darn near have to put my toes into the ground to get it to lock, that works wonders.

[md86]

Ah , I lowered my pedal to make it tougher to lock at one time . I REALLY liked it . I ended up dragging the pedal REAL early , though . That was NOT cool Might wanna be careful with that ....

[VFRstar]

Ok, I'm not real clear on what an HH pad is? I went to the local shop and bought new brake pads. I have no idea what they sold me, and it's been far too long ago to remember what the box looked like.

[arsenic]

HH is the compound in the pad, if they didn't tell you they were HH pads, they aren't. The HH is a selling point.

[The CyberPoet]

Ok, I'm not real clear on what an HH pad is? I went to the local shop and bought new brake pads. I have no idea what they sold me, and it's been far too long ago to remember what the box looked like.

The letter rating is the friction rate the pads grab at. The first letter is the grab rate when cold, the second when hot. Each letter represents a 10% slice of the spectrum (C = 0.01 to 15%, D= 15-25%, E=25-35%, F=35-45%, G= 45-55%, and H is anything above 55%).
Stock Suzuki pads for the Kat are GG rated.
Some aftermarket companies offer HH rated pads (such as EBC) which reduce braking distance, but at the penalties of a lot of heat build-up (not good if you are going downhill a lot), and being far more likely for someone without lots of experience under their belt to lock-up the wheel.

Hope that clarifies it.

In general, for most mid-level riders (1-5 years experience), I recommend HH's only for the front and GG's for the rear because it's much easier to accidentally lock the rear. For new riders (first year or two), I usually recommend GG's all around to reduce the likeliness of panic-braking causing a wreck.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet