[md86]

Plus , like any screw over time and with vibration , it could move a little on ya . That's why you check the synch every so often .

[FloridaKat]

Put in the Seafoam, sloshed it around the tank and then drained it. Put a few more ounces in and put about 2 gallons of fresh gas in the tank. Started the bike up (after priming it for about 20-30 seconds). Whew! I thought 15 seconds would have done it, but nope.

Bike starts and then jumps in revs to 4-4.5K. Push the enricher/choke all the way off...no difference. Tried playing with the idle screw, but ZERO effect. The screw turns and I can see where it goes in between carbs 2 and 3, but notta.

OK..so then I start to tinker with the throttle cable on the lever. It helps and I am able to get it down to whatever I want (even stall condition). The throttle return doesn't return quickly at all...it's slow as molasses. So I go under the tank and start to play with the linkage. Now the settings are probably so screwed up between the choke/enricher, acceleration/decelerate cable and my non-functional idle adjustment screw. What's the best method to set these up harmoniously?

Oh...at 1.2K, the idle was real smooth...the hiccup I experienced before the new plugs, Seafoam and valve-adjustment appears to be history.

[Black_peter]

OK first off get the thottle cables right.
Loosen them up then adjust them to were you have just a bit of slack.

It seems to me that you have an issue with your F/A screws but you need to get all the other stuff out of the mix. "choke" cable, throttle and idle..

[FloridaKat]

OK first off get the thottle cables right.
Loosen them up then adjust them to were you have just a bit of slack.

It seems to me that you have an issue with your F/A screws but you need to get all the other stuff out of the mix. "choke" cable, throttle and idle..

Loosened the throttle cables and checked the routing against the original condition (I took digital photographs before and after). The routing is the exact same. However, with slack in both throttle cables, if I turn the handlebars to the left the bike decrease in RPM (almost to stall), turn to right and she jumps up in revs (as if to mimic twisting the throttle). So, do I need to loosed the throttle cables even more? How much slack is enough? Perhaps I need to understand if I am loosening or tightening the throttle cables near the carbs? Or does the accelerator side have a different setting than the return side (like my pre-valve adjustment picture shows below)?

I also noticed that I can push forward on the throttle grip (even after it's normal return) and have the RPM's decrease even further. Weird!

[md86]

If turing the bars changes your rpm's , it's DEFINATELY in the cables . One of your cables is the "opener" , the other is the "closer" . The pres (like mine) only have one cable .

[FloridaKat]

Ok...so there is still a little throttle control with the handlebars after adjustment...just gonna keep making more adjustments until the effect is gone. The idle adjustment screw did seem to work albeit the "sticky" throttle made the adjustment mute.

When, and if, I do another valve inspection on my Katana, I would like to not mess with the throttle cables. What a PIA! Can't you just remove the carb. bank and let it dangle instead?

[md86]

That's how I do it . I ALSO hate throttle cables , and the pre's only have ONE .

[The CyberPoet]

Throttle cables overly tight or binding.
When set right, in a quiet setting, releasing the throttle (bike off) you should hear a distinctive click as the butterflies snap closed. I use that sound to set the cable tension myself -- I keep loosening until I hear it, tighten until it disappears, then loosen again until it just reappears.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[FloridaKat]

OK...no more RPM control via handlebar steering input.

However, my throttle doesn't close as quickly as it did previously (it does go down, but not to my liking). Which adjuster(s) should I mess with to make the "closer" act more rapidly?

You are always welcome to use my Morgan CarbTuneII if you don't want to invest in your own solution.

Are you offering to use it if I come down, or have me pick-up the shipping to and from? If I recall correctly, I best have me some extra vacuum caps on hand as my hands are bigger than the folks who put them on there in the assembly plant.

[md86]

If the throttle is now snapping shut as it should , but revs are dropping slower , and we're SURE the cable is no longer the problem , then it's a mix problem (too lean for whatever reason , it could be a few ....) , air leak , synch ......

[FloridaKat]

If the throttle is now snapping shut as it should , but revs are dropping slower , and we're SURE the cable is no longer the problem , then it's a mix problem (too lean for whatever reason , it could be a few ....) , air leak , synch ......

Let me clarify, the throttle is DEFINITELY snapping shut (when I don't have the bike running), but I can't be 100% sure the cable isn't a problem as pre-valve adjustment, the RPM's dropped much more rapidly after getting off the throttle. Do you know how I could adjust the "closer" portion of the throttle cables to increase the return rate?

I recently added a slip-on (Two Brothers), but not sure if that had/has any effect on any of my issues.

Thanks for your help! It's been educational....no wonder Suzuki put FI in the new 650GSXF!

[The CyberPoet]

Are you offering to use it if I come down, or have me pick-up the shipping to and from? If I recall correctly, I best have me some extra vacuum caps on hand as my hands are bigger than the folks who put them on there in the assembly plant.

I'm offering you to come down and use it here... Although, I suppose I could ship it to you & you ship it back (against a refundable deposit), since it's not like I have a #$%*&^ motorcycle that might need a sync any time soon.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[md86]

Let me clarify, the throttle is DEFINITELY snapping shut (when I don't have the bike running), but I can't be 100% sure the cable isn't a problem as pre-valve adjustment, the RPM's dropped much more rapidly after getting off the throttle. Do you know how I could adjust the "closer" portion of the throttle cables to increase the return rate?

I recently added a slip-on (Two Brothers), but not sure if that had/has any effect on any of my issues.

Thanks for your help! It's been educational....no wonder Suzuki put FI in the new 650GSXF!

as I undertsand it , the "closer" cable is mainly a failsafe , so that if needs be , you can close the throttle manually if the return spring should malfunction , or some such . If it's snapping shut , then it's doing it's job . However , a lean mix , which can be caused by dirt in the pilot circuit , bad settings , or an air leak , makes it return to idle a little slower . See , it COULD be a few things . This is why it's good to go for the easier/more likely culprits first .

[Newbie2it]

Ya know, Good thing I kept staring at this picture trying to figure out why it looked so much different than my 93 that I remember...

Then it hit me. On mine, the nut is actually under the fork. I was like that when I bought it with 5k. And every time I'd take off the carbs, I'd biatch to myself and say "Why the hell did Suzuki have to nut it from underneath?" But I never had to adjust the throttle cable so its why it never dawned on me that the nut was supposed to be on top. I always thought it was stupid to have it nutted from below, but thought.. Some Engineer over at Suzuki felt it needs to be this way for some stupid reason. And now I know it was just stupid people that owned the bike before me.

[The CyberPoet]

It's actually nutted from both sides -- there's a nut under the bracket and a nut over the bracket, with the two holding it tight to the bracket.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet