[WildKat]

I'm also learning you have to remove just about every piece of plastic to get to anything on this bike. What fun all that is and I'm getting better at it for sure. Thanks for all the input and what ever help you can give me on freeing my tank.

Yeah isnt that fun.. the first time I got the bodywork off, I was like, OMG,, everytime you think you have them all off, there's another hidden one

FYI, if you put it on reserve, dont forget to put it back to on after you get gas. Something easy to forget at times

[Paladin]

To disconnect the fuel sender, follow the wires coming from the gas tank down -- at one point you will find a plastic plug-connector were it plugs into the wiring loom. Disconnect it there. Do not remove the actual sender unit from the tank.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

Ok, so under the tank on the right hand side is the sender unit and it looks like about 3 hoses (one with a wire inside) All of those should remain connected to the tank as well? I only removed one side of the front fairings so far. I guess I'm going to take em all off now.

[Paladin]

Tank is free at last... Thanks for all the help in answering those Q's and I'm off to the next step in tuning up the Kat.

8)

[The CyberPoet]

Ok, so under the tank on the right hand side is the sender unit and it looks like about 3 hoses (one with a wire inside) All of those should remain connected to the tank as well? I only removed one side of the front fairings so far. I guess I'm going to take em all off now.

I'm sure there's more than one way to disconnect a tank, but on a 98 - 05 model, this is the method I use, which proves to be fast and efficient once you've done it a couple times:

(A) Remove the vacuum hoses to the petcock at the #1 Carb (accessible from the right side of the bike -- hose connects to a nipple coming off the carb on the airbox side);

(B) Remove the fuel line hose at the petcock; it's the one that comes in from the side rather than from the rear of the assembly when looking at the dial; usually has a clamp on it.

(C) Disconnect the tank sender unit at the pigtail connector, which lies on the right side of the airbox (3-pin connector).

(D) Pull the tank rearwards a bit & lift the rear of the tank up a bit; as it comes up, you'll see a drain hose coming off the underside of the tank. Pull it off the tank. Now lift the tank away and clear, set it down somewhere on a towel or something else soft.

Note that the above may not apply to the California-models, which may have additional plumbing I haven't covered (vapor recovery systems, etc).

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[jhugh]

Using the 'Prime' setting bypasses the fuel petcocks fuel shutoff function and allows the carb fuel bowls to fill up w/o having engine vacuum applied. As long as your floats aren't stuck open it should not flood out the carbs, but it's a good idea not to leave it on Prime all the time just in case.....

[Paladin]

Well one of my main concerns was the instructions stating set the Fuel to OFF and on the Petcock it has RES - ON - PRI. Now the book shows the arrow pointing towards the front Wheel or as the fairing states RES. Now this is where I normally set it to keep from flooding things. When it was turned all the way around towards PRI, arrow point towards rear wheel, I get a mess and flood the thing.

Now in some of the posts here, people state to leave the fuel in the ON position when your not riding and the bike is powered off. This does not appear to be along the lines of the Clymer manual, where it appears that RES is also used as the OFF setting, at least based on the photo in the book.

I've moved on to check the Air Filter and will look at the Carbs next as well as replacing the Spark Plugs. Not sure if this will help others or not, but the Ring on the Air Filter appears to be part of the filter, it seemed to come out with it and I'm not seeing where to remove that at this time. Does that sound like a stock Air Filter?

Also in looking inside the Air Box, it has some gas sitting inside at the bottom. I'm not thinking gas should be sitting in the Air Box. Look forward to any replies and what could be the cause or if this is to be expected when the carbs flood.

Thanks,

[The CyberPoet]

Well one of my main concerns was the instructions stating set the Fuel to OFF and on the Petcock it has RES - ON - PRI. Now the book shows the arrow pointing towards the front Wheel or as the fairing states RES. Now this is where I normally set it to keep from flooding things. When it was turned all the way around towards PRI, arrow point towards rear wheel, I get a mess and flood the thing.

Now in some of the posts here, people state to leave the fuel in the ON position when your not riding and the bike is powered off. This does not appear to be along the lines of the Clymer manual, where it appears that RES is also used as the OFF setting, at least based on the photo in the book.

As I stated in one of the previous posts in this thread, the vacuum diaphram closes off the fuel petcock when the engine is off in both the RES and the ON position, effectively switching to "OFF". PRIME defeats this.

PS - never trust the Clymer manual as being definitive; some torque values are stated incorrectly (at least compared to the Suzuki factory repair manual, which is effectively the bible)...

I've moved on to check the Air Filter and will look at the Carbs next as well as replacing the Spark Plugs. Not sure if this will help others or not, but the Ring on the Air Filter appears to be part of the filter, it seemed to come out with it and I'm not seeing where to remove that at this time. Does that sound like a stock Air Filter?

Yes, the stock air filter comprises a single piece of black plastic, some metal mesh, paper-cotton-paper element, and a metal disk at the far end as a single assembly, which is held in place by four screws at the front of the airbox. Looking at a parts diagram on RonAyers.com could help you resolve such questions in the future (having a replacement filter on hand would have also answered that question).

Also in looking inside the Air Box, it has some gas sitting inside at the bottom. I'm not thinking gas should be sitting in the Air Box. Look forward to any replies and what could be the cause or if this is to be expected when the carbs flood.

(A) Are you sure it is gasoline and not an oil or oil-water mixture?

(B) Coming of the bottom of the airbox is a drain tube. This tube should have a cap in the end on the 98+ models (the cap should always be in place when the engine is running), and a bent-over end on the pre-98 models. At least once every oil change, this tube should be uncapped and permitted to drain. If the bike falls over for any reason (accident, spill and fall, etc) or if the carbs flood out, this tube should be drained then and there, and again after the engine comes all the way up to temp and cools off again. At normal 3500 mile intervals, the total amount to drain out should not be more than a shot glass full of liquid, unless something is wrong (too much oil can be an early sign of failing rings; liquid fuel indicates problems with a mixture too rich or a leaking carb; water or algae indicates condensation issues in the oil and that the engine isn't being used enough). Only when the tube fills up should there be anything more than a light misting of oil residue on the inside of the airbox.

(C) The airbox is connected to the ventilation of the crankcase by a hose which connects to the top/rear of the valve covers. Excess fuel in the motor oil gets vaporized when hot and drawn back into the air box to be reburned (recycled), as well as excess oil vapor, water condensation, etc. The primary purpose is to keep fuel vapors from building up sufficiently to explode from the ambient heat in a hot engine.
If the engine isn't permitted to get up to temp on a regular basis, these contaminants will stay in the oil instead, causing it to break down and lose it's viscosity. Once in the airbox, the heavier vapors will settle back out as liquids, which will need to be drained out of the tube.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[Paladin]

PS - never trust the Clymer manual as being definitive; some torque values are stated incorrectly (at least compared to the Suzuki factory repair manual, which is effectively the bible)...

(A) Are you sure it is gasoline and not an oil or oil-water mixture?

(B) Coming of the bottom of the airbox is a drain tube. This tube should have a cap in the end on the 98+ models (the cap should always be in place when the engine is running), and a bent-over end on the pre-98 models. At least once every oil change, this tube should be uncapped and permitted to drain. If the bike falls over for any reason (accident, spill and fall, etc) or if the carbs flood out, this tube should be drained then and there, and again after the engine comes all the way up to temp and cools off again. At normal 3500 mile intervals, the total amount to drain out should not be more than a shot glass full of liquid, unless something is wrong (too much oil can be an early sign of failing rings; liquid fuel indicates problems with a mixture too rich or a leaking carb; water or algae indicates condensation issues in the oil and that the engine isn't being used enough). Only when the tube fills up should there be anything more than a light misting of oil residue on the inside of the airbox.

(C) The airbox is connected to the ventilation of the crankcase by a hose which connects to the top/rear of the valve covers. Excess fuel in the motor oil gets vaporized when hot and drawn back into the air box to be reburned (recycled), as well as excess oil vapor, water condensation, etc. The primary purpose is to keep fuel vapors from building up sufficiently to explode from the ambient heat in a hot engine.
If the engine isn't permitted to get up to temp on a regular basis, these contaminants will stay in the oil instead, causing it to break down and lose it's viscosity. Once in the airbox, the heavier vapors will settle back out as liquids, which will need to be drained out of the tube.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

Oh this is well more than a shot glass. Even a Texas sized Shot Glass. I'll see about draining it next. I'd say it might fill up a nice 8 oz glass, but that is just a guess. I'll look at getting one of the Suzuki Shop manuals next, you never can have to many books I'd say.

Thanks again and hopefully this will help someone else that might have the same questions.