Stubborn bolt 0 Me 1..shift kit install

[ctandc]

So I got the rounded header bolt out. Sprayed it down with Aero Kroil, left it alone, sprayed some more.....got it to move a bit with the kit of sockets I bought at Sears today. After that socket deal skinned the head up more, I was able to drive a socket on that would stay. Bolt out.

Unbolted and dropped the exhaust. Dropped the oil pan...NOTE it's FOURTEEN bolts. There is one hiding and it is out to get you LOL

Also...all are the same size except for FOUR. The two middle towards the front of the bike are longer (you can tell by the way the casting of the pan is) The middle 'recessed' bolt is longer. And the first bolt from the corner on the RH side is longer. Also...the very next bolt on the RH side has some sort of washer / o-ring thing on it. I'm leaving it on, and putting it back the way it was.

The shift kit is really just a spring. You'll see the detent arm once the pan is off. It's on the LH side. Wiggle the shifter you'll see it moving. There is a spring with a big hook pointing down, and the small end hooks to the end of the arm. The arm has a hold / sleeve in the middle which slides onto a 'mounting post'. The other end has a roller that rests up against the gear. Pull the bottom part of the spring loose. The arm is held in by a small snap ring. You WILL need a 90 degree end on your snap ring pliers. Wouldn't recommend anything but snap rings pliers. I have a set I bought where you can easily change the head of the pliers out..think it was $10 at Harbor Freight years ago. Makes easy work of the snap ring, and you DEFINITELY don't want that ring flying off and lodging somewhere in your tranny. Once you unhook the bottom part of the spring, and remove the arm, simply install the new spring on the arm, slide the arm back on, hook the spring (it's STIFF compared to the stock one, so I used a small 'dental' type hook and some needle nose vice grips to pull it down and hook it. Then reinstall the snap ring.

MAKE SURE once it's back in, that the ROLLER on the end of the arm, (furthest on the LH side towards the gear shift) is SEATED on the gears, and not 'under' it. You'll know what I mean when you see it in person.

I've got the Kat up on my homemade pipe stand so I let it down a bit so I could roll the rear tire a bit and check out the shifts...WOW it's AMAZING what that little spring can do. Gear changes are POSITIVE. No mistaking up or down shifts. Makes the old shifts seem like a spoon slopping around in a mayo jar.

I'm heading in to take a shower now. Tomorrow evening is:

Clean the rest of the oil pan gasket off (new gasket AND exhaust gaskets included with the shift kit, heck that's @ $24 of parts right there).

Clean the oil pan out (shocked to see NO METAL in my pan, and everything internal looked GREAT)

Grind the pan down a bit to install the Fumoto valve I've got

Install the pan. Reinstall the oil cooler lines and oil cooler w/ new crush washers.

Install new oil filter and oil.

(order magnet for filter from Marc)

Since my brake parts are here:

- Leave bike on stand, remove rear wheel, replace rotor (EBC replacement).

- Rebuild rear caliper add new pads (EBC organic FA63)

- Rebuild front calipers add new pads (EBC HH)

- Flush old brake fluid add synthetic fluid (couldn't find the Castrol got the Valvoline)

- Install ignition advancer (it came today too)

- New cables are already on.

- Going to clean off the old exhaust and put a quick couple of coats of exhaust paint (black) on it

- Reinstall airbox, filter, and tank

- Install fairings and GO FOR A RIDE

Any advice on cleaning / surfacing new rear and current (Good shape not grooved like rear) rotors?

What about bedding the new pads?

Also..I have to throw in a plug for Kneedraggers.com

I ordered a EBC rear rotor, EBC rear pads, two pair of EBC HH front pads..on Sunday. Paid a bit extra for UPS 3 day. Got it all on Wednesday. Damage total was around $200.

I hope to have the Kat up and running tomorrow night and take it to work Friday, but I'll settle for having it ready for a 'break in' ride on Friday night.

What's next? Rear fender chop?

I also have to repalce the clutch cable and adjust it as well

Chris

[The CyberPoet]

(A) Don't use organic pads. Semisintered are called for with steel rotors, and organics with these rotors tend to run too hot for their own good (even EBC's kevlar organics).

(B) You never resurface motorcycle rotors. Simply clean with a green scotchbrite pad or a bit of emory cloth (followed by spraying liberally with brake cleaner) to remove every trace of old friction materials on the rotor, measure to make sure they're still within spec tolerances (need to be a specific thickness to handle the heat), and then use again. Also check the play at the round hubs the disk floats on -- in spec, you can move the whole disk in-board and out-board, but can't move just one side without moving the other at the same time.

(C) The header paint almost assuredly won't stay. They need to be sand or bead blasted, washed down with keytone, and then *maybe* exhaust paint will stick for longer than a couple weeks. Not usually. It's a combination of factors, including the metal of the header itself and the years of road grime being beaten into them by the front wheel.
Best solution is to grind out the header weld seams and then hand the entire header to your local powdercoater to bead-blast and ceramic coat (sometimes called JetCoat if they happen to use that brand of ceramic coat).

The rest seems spot-on. Thanks for the update on the shift indent spring kit!

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[ctandc]

(A) Don't use organic pads. Semisintered are called for with steel rotors, and organics with these rotors tend to run too hot for their own good (even EBC's kevlar organics).

That's odd...the FA63's are what a buddy of mine runs on his older GSXR, and has for years. Guess we'll see how they do.

(B) You never resurface motorcycle rotors. Simply clean with a green scotchbrite pad or a bit of emory cloth (followed by spraying liberally with brake cleaner) to remove every trace of old friction materials on the rotor, measure to make sure they're still within spec tolerances (need to be a specific thickness to handle the heat), and then use again. Also check the play at the round hubs the disk floats on -- in spec, you can move the whole disk in-board and out-board, but can't move just one side without moving the other at the same time.

That's what I meant....cleaning them off.

(C) The header paint almost assuredly won't stay. They need to be sand or bead blasted, washed down with keytone, and then *maybe* exhaust paint will stick for longer than a couple weeks. Not usually. It's a combination of factors, including the metal of the header itself and the years of road grime being beaten into them by the front wheel.
Best solution is to grind out the header weld seams and then hand the entire header to your local powdercoater to bead-blast and ceramic coat (sometimes called JetCoat if they happen to use that brand of ceramic coat).

Hmmm maybe bikes are different. The paint I use is actually BBQ paint. I've used it on more than a few sets of headers / exhaust manifolds on project cars just to clean up the appearance a bit. Never had a problem with it lasting. It's not a final solution, just something to clean it up a bit. Again, guess we'll see how it works.

The rest seems spot-on. Thanks for the update on the shift indent spring kit!

No problem, I was going to take pics of the shift 'kit' install but I Was a bit annoyed from that bolt and was pretty much through with the install when I thought of it.


Chris

[Mat0302]

I got a shift kit from CP a few weeks ago. It definately makes a difference and take a little getting use too. Switching the spring isn't as easy as it looks, but was well worth it.

And for the headers, I took them out back and sprayed the with BBQ paint also (2 times now). It works well, doesn't chip or peel at all.