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Oil, after rebuild

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  • Oil, after rebuild

    No, this isn't your typical, "what's the best type of oil" question...

    I'm about to put my b12 motor back together after having some head work done to it as well as a bore kit (new pistons, rings and pins). I know that I need to follow standard break in procedures with this, right? Pretty much just take it easy for 600 miles for the rings to seat?

    But what type of oil should I use for the first few hundred miles? I had used the mobil 10-40 moto oil before, I am going to switch to a 20-50 because it's like 100 degrees here in Florida everyday now. Should I just stick with that? Because I had read that during the break in period you shouldn't use synthetic oil, but I've also heard that once you've used synthetic oil you shouldn't go back to regular oil, and my bottom end will sill have the reminence of the synthetic oil that I used before the work was done on it, so what should I do?
    Florida, the only place where you need your windshield wipers and sunglasses. At the same time.

    05/02 1216 Kabandit
    18v Rigid Drill
    Craftsman Rubber Mallet with duct tape mod
    New Balance 765 running shoes from 10th Grade, with duct tape and super glue mod

  • #2
    They are both myth's

    Motorcycle oils don't have the same additive packages that car oils have, so no worries on that front. Some cars run specific break in oil from the factory. (Honda comes to mind with their high molybdenum to supposedly harden everything.) But if the myth about not using a synthetic during break in were true, then there would be all kinds of dead Vipers, Vettes, and Porches on the road. They are all factory filled with M1.

    As to not switching back and forth, there is absolutely nothing in the engine that lets it know what is in there. The only time when you should not switch is when a vehicle has an oil leak, in which case, a switch to synthetic will exaggerate the leak due to its slipperier nature.
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    Just because they sound the same doesn't mean they are: there≠their≠they're; to≠too≠two; its≠it's; your≠you're; know≠no; brake≠break

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    • #3
      +1, during the break 'motorcycle" synthetic oil is fine, I'm going through the same thing, I'm going to use Mobile 1 after the rebuild and I'm confident it will be fine.

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      • #4
        On that same advice $$ wise synthetic oil is more expensive than regular oil...so if you are going to break in an engine then change the oil at 600 miles then refill it with oil and run for 3000 miles the first 600 use the regular oil since you will be getting rid of it...then fill with the synthetic after that...just thinking of is in a $$ sense...
        Good judgement comes from experience, and often experience comes from Bad Judgement :smt084
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        • #5
          That's a good idea Jax

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          • #6
            Good point about the money, I'm probably going to change the oil at least twice before i get to 600 miles, once at 50, then another at 300ish, just to be sure all the crap is out of there.
            Florida, the only place where you need your windshield wipers and sunglasses. At the same time.

            05/02 1216 Kabandit
            18v Rigid Drill
            Craftsman Rubber Mallet with duct tape mod
            New Balance 765 running shoes from 10th Grade, with duct tape and super glue mod

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Jax
              On that same advice $$ wise synthetic oil is more expensive than regular oil...so if you are going to break in an engine then change the oil at 600 miles then refill it with oil and run for 3000 miles the first 600 use the regular oil since you will be getting rid of it...then fill with the synthetic after that...just thinking of is in a $$ sense...
              +1. I might even do another oil change around 1000-1600 miles. Switch to the expensive stuff after you've already broken the motor in.

              Of course, you could always install a fumoto and have oil analysis done...
              -Steve


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              • #8
                I just completed my breakin after a rebuild, I used dino oil for the 600 period, then switched to the semi for the rest of the 1600, dumped it and now have over 2,000 in two weeks with the semi-syn oil.
                If its not broke, Hit it with a bigger hammer and blame it on cheap imports

                RIP Dad 3/15/08 Love and miss ya already




                Originally posted by Nero
                Even I played for a minute or so, then I recovered what little manhood I had left and stopped.

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                • #9
                  IMHO, if you can find it: Kendell Motorcycle Oil for the break-in period (it's dino oil). In a 10w40.

                  Why that specific oil? Because it's particularly rich in anti-galling additives, which help cushion the break-in process better.

                  After the 600 mile boundary (and hopefully 2nd or 3rd oil change), go to whatever you want to use regularly.

                  Cheers,
                  =-= The CyberPoet
                  Remember The CyberPoet

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                  • #10
                    Do you know where to find it here in Florida? (orlando area)
                    Florida, the only place where you need your windshield wipers and sunglasses. At the same time.

                    05/02 1216 Kabandit
                    18v Rigid Drill
                    Craftsman Rubber Mallet with duct tape mod
                    New Balance 765 running shoes from 10th Grade, with duct tape and super glue mod

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by reconstyle
                      Do you know where to find it here in Florida? (orlando area)
                      Not in your area, but I'll betcha the manufacturer does:
                      E-mail: [email protected]
                      Telephone: 1.800.368.1267 (Technical Hotline)

                      Cheers,
                      =-= The CyberPoet
                      Remember The CyberPoet

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