Since I just got the bike 4 days ago and pretty much have to store it right off the bat, I decided to do an oil and oil fiter change (good thing cause I found a FRAM filter on it). Anyways, I put a new crush washer on the drain plug. Should I be replacing the crush washer every oil change?
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14mm ID washer. Any honda (car) dealer and most places that cater to Honda cars.
The torque-spec is critical, and stripping the oil pan receiver threads is the single most common user error. 16.5 lb-ft of torque is perfect -- couple of lbs over and you'll strip the threads, a couple lbs under and the bolt will vibrate out while you're in motion.
One of the favorite upgrades around here (one I pioneered on the Kats) is the Fumoto Oil Drain Valve -- about $25 delivered. www.fumotovalve.com -- order an F111. Will require taking a dremel to the raised ridge next to the existing oil drain bolt area (no big deal -- 3 minutes on your back and it's done). Pics are here on KR
After that, the drain never comes out -- you simply lift the tab on the petcock and rotate it 90 degrees to open the drain valve. Belly pan doesn't even have to come off for an oil change from that point on.
Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet
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Originally posted by NovelldudeOne other thing I've seen Cyber Poet suggest for new rides is pulling the header bolts and putting a coat of anti-seize on them.
As well as slathering each electrical connector chock-full of dielectric grease.
These two things won't give you any instant satisfaction, but years down the road, they will save you from nightmares and cluster migraines.
Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet
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