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Yes I do, but I missed your explanation in the first post.
So is this something that you use to tune your carbs after major work or is it for synching? Is it a necessary tool? I ask because I really need to get to adjusting my valves and synching my carbs one of these days.
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It's for adjusting the F/A (fuel / air) or pilot jet.
Thats the one that has the metal cap over it.
You need to remove the cap (and the screw) to do a thorough cleaning. Problem is while you can put them back where they were, it's not always were they need to be. So you take a guess and then if your wrong you have to remove the carbs to get at the screw. Then reassemble and test, repeat until you are ready to kick over the bike! I have tried many many different screwdrivers, 3 that I made but it's a matter of getting your hand in under the carbs. I know I'm idling way too rich and hope that I can use this gizmo to set it right!
I was truly impressed with the price. TJ's is a little shop within walking distance from my house. They sell KTMs and a few used street bikes (including a certain '95 750..) They only have a few tools but I have seen this online for as much as $32!
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OK while it beats pulling the carbs to adjust the screws.
It's not that well set up for the Kat..
The outer tube is supposed to lock around the "rim" of the screw port.. and allow you to hold everything still, plus there is a marker ring that you can set to keep track of the number of turns. That is in the perfect world.. In Katana land you still don't have enough hands. The tube won't meet the rim at a 90 degree angle. You're a bit like a safe cracker feeling for the tumblers as you set the tip in the screw and gently adjust it..
But it's $15 and you don't have to pull off the carbs..
I give it a thumbs up..
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I have one of those too. Don't even really use it for the same reason you just stated. I have a hard time "feeling" when it's actually turning the screw or just spinning and possibly messing up the screw head.
Greg
COURAGE -
Freedom is the sure possession of those alone
who have the courage to defend it.
First Sergeant(Ret) - US Army - 21 years
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OK after doing battle with the bike I feel better.
First off I modified the tool.
I ground off the half ring, it doesn't work and get in the way. (it is hard BTW so grinder needed) Next I drilled a hole in the driver tip and inserted a piece of copper wire. This holds the tip from getting pushed into the sleeve.
Now when you find the screw you only have to hold the sleeve in position and turn the handle. Before you had to hold the sleeve, push the handle, turn the handle and pay attention to the # of turns. I adjusted them by the "idle drop" method. I rotated until the idle bogged (too rich) then back (until too lean) then backed off the lean bay about half. (I set it about 1/2 turn lean) Synched the carbs and repeated. Sounds good and the when you blip the throttle it falls quick and no bounce. I think it's running better than it ever did. The exhaust smells better and the pulses are even and strong.
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