Originally posted by The CyberPoet
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in my opinion, Kroil beats all. We use this stuff at work on stuff that we cant allow to break. If its something that can be beaten out, we use PB. Only downside is that its rather expensive, on the order of 100 bucks a gallon. But it is amazing, it will actually creep UP threads on a bolt.
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Originally posted by md86I've heard about Kroil...
Original Manufacturer:
The Industry Leader in Professional-Grade Penetrating Oils, Lubricants and Grease. Our family of brands includes Kroil and Super Lube®.
Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet
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Originally posted by md86Wish I had some of that stuff before the sprkplug in my car got stripped .
worth looking into
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I disagree with the impact driver. I have seen an impact driver strip out threads on a clean bolt forget about a rusted one.
I jumped on the PB Buster band wagon early this year when I had to replace the exhaust manifold on my Civic. Everyday for a week when I got home I hosed down the nuts and bolts. I also tapped each one with a hammer. at the end of the week when it was time to take everything apart it was not a problem.
Cyber's suggestion of trying to slightly tighten the bolt then loosen it also works. In the end I think that the most important tool is patience.
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Okay,
I dosed the bolts with PB for a couple days and went back to the bike last night to take out the bolts. I am sure they might come off if I could find a proper tool. the 6mm allen wrench does not fit as suggested. May be too much gunk still inside them.
Not sure if these are stock header bolts on my 97 Kat. They are pretty rusted to the point of disinagration (spelling?)
There seems to be no way to grab onto the outside of the bolt with a wrench. The bolts on the outside are round Don;t want to admit defeat just yet....any suggestions?
NewrideThe truth knocks on the door and you say, "Go away, I'm looking for the truth," and so it goes away. Puzzling.
From Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance.
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Originally posted by newrideThere seems to be no way to grab onto the outside of the bolt with a wrench. The bolts on the outside are round Don;t want to admit defeat just yet....any suggestions?
For the outside, there's not wrench or socket on the planet that I know of designed to grip it, but a set of vice-grips (as I mentioned previously) will do it.
Some people have been known to force a torx bit in there when it's horribly rusted, but it will ruin the torx bit and the allen head shape, although it may get the bolt out. Alternatively, you could cut a slot with a dremel and use a particularly wide flat-head attachment in your impact driver -- this is a last resort.
Either way, figure you are going to need replacement bolts when you go to put it back together, so now is a good time to track them down (as well as a tube of high-temp anti-seize).
Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet
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A stud extractor like this may work: http://www.kd-tools.com/1708.htm You can buy it at Sears http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00999009000 .
here is another option that may work: http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...OD&ProdID=6378
I am not sure how much space that you have to work with.
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I had a similar problem, and ended up having to grind off two of the bolts with a dremel tool after the orginal allens rounded out on me.
Good luck!-Steve
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My header hex heads rounded out on me. I took a drill and drilled the hole out a little bit. I then took a Torx bit/socket and hammered it in, making it cut the torx grooves. I then had more than enough grip to turn the bolts and remove em.
Cheers Rody
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