help no vaccum

[icekillah]

just got the engine back in(stripped the bike down to put new piston rings in it) only thing thats not installed is exhaust (4in1) and can't get vaccum from carborator is this because of exhaust or could it fall under another catagory any ideas are appreciated

[Anonymous]

put your exhaust on dump a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder and fire it up and let the rings reseat with the cylinder walls new rings take a bit to reseat now when you put new rings in did you go with a oversized ring of put stock ones back in did you rehoned the cylinders?????

[icekillah]

just ordered stock rings from bike bandit did nothing to the cylindar walls

[Anonymous]

how many miles on the bike ???? why did you replace them ????? and as a rule of thumb when you put new rings in you should hone the cylinders it knocks off the glazes and lets the new ring reseal easier

[icekillah]

would that effect the vaccum i thought it was because the exhaust was not on but could it be the carbs?

[Anonymous]

would that effect the vaccum i thought it was because the exhaust was not on but could it be the carbs?

yeah it can effect vacuum and compression

[The CyberPoet]

Re: help no vaccum

just got the engine back in(stripped the bike down to put new piston rings in it) only thing thats not installed is exhaust (4in1) and can't get vaccum from carborator is this because of exhaust or could it fall under another catagory any ideas are appreciated

It's because the new rings aren't seated and there's too much of a gap between the new rings and the worn-down cylinder walls. Removing the restriction at the exhaust just makes it worse (put that exhaust on!).
A compression test will give you a definitive answer. If you're lucky, you can force the new rings to wear to the walls (if they are close enough) by using a high weight gear oil (a teaspoon in each spark plug hole before the plug goes in), turning the engine by hand a dozen times, then using some starter fluid to help boot-strap the engine into life -- once it's running, the pressure on the rings from detonation should both help seat them and help keep the engine building enough vacuum to keep running.

As Sin said, normally you'd hone out the cylinder bores (or rebore them) and go to one size larger rings (a few thousands larger around the outsides) to compensate for past wear-n-tear on the cylinder walls.

Good Luck!
=-= The CyberPoet

[icekillah]

it was the exhaust only got it half on though smokes from the ends. its impossible to put it on all the way on(tried doing one side first the other side but middle ones are all out of wack) anyone know of any tips

[The CyberPoet]

it was the exhaust only got it half on though smokes from the ends. its impossible to put it on all the way on(tried doing one side first the other side but middle ones are all out of wack) anyone know of any tips

I'm not sure what you mean.... can you describe your problem better (was it the header wasn't bolting up right?). Also, did you check the exhaust header gaskets?

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[icekillah]

gaskets? dosen't have gaskets only that red gasket sealer was on it. what im talking about is the bolts not bolting up right and about half of the exhaust is not jammed into the hole it should be in (all of them are about halfway in but can't line them up and bolt them in its impossible

[The CyberPoet]

There should be four gaskets -- one in each exhaust port of the engine -- that the header fits against. Based on what you're saying, I can't tell if the header is mangled (some of the pipes bent uneven), or if maybe the lack of gaskets in only some of the ports is making some of the pipes seat differently than others. Time for pics!

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[icekillah]

well i got the exhaust on tight enough to get vaccum but now it seems there is too much vaccum tried doing a carb sync and it wants to idle at like 5k rpms (way to loud!) could this be because the cylindar walls were not honned? also after the piston ring installation the shims that were in the valves to begin with (since last shim job) had to be replaced with the shims from the last valve job (some of the valves were at 280 and had i had to use saved shims which were around 260) but all valves were in spec when installed. i also put a uni foam filter on since piston job. and i forgot is the vaccum line from carbs to tank suppose to be blocked off while doing a carb sync?

[Court93kat]

You still need to pick up some exhaust gaskets and replace or install them once you find out the deal with them.

No such thing as too much vacuum that I know of. Check your throttle cable to make sure it's not binding somewhere. Also check the clamps for the intakes to make sure it's not hitting the carb linkage. Replacing the rings should not cause your engine to race like that. I think it is a carb or linkage problem.

Yes, any and all vacuum lines and ports should be blocked off during a carb synch. That will throw you way off. That could even be the cause of your engine revving like it is.

I don't understand why you had to change out your shims after replacing your rings, unless you had some head work done while it was apart.

[icekillah]

i only cleaned out the valves and i guess they seated back to specs or something i do remember changing the float height wonder if that is what it is?