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Okay now I have installed a new 2Bros slip on and it sounds great on accel. There is no flat spots on accel or cruise, but on gearing down it pops. I was wondering if it is running too lean and has to be rejetted. Or do I have to live with this annoyance!
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you need to richen up you idle circuit. what happens is that when you get off the throttle, the butterflys slap shut and the bike runs on the idle circuit as if it was sitting at a red light, and it is to lean causing the popping. i turn the screws out at 1/4 turn increments to remedy the problem.
here is this for some more info:
“Programming today is a race between software engineers stirring to build bigger and better idiot-proof programs, and the universe trying to produce bigger and better idiots. So far, the universe is winning.” -
Yup. BarMatt got it. Turning your pilot screws (the ones under the don't-screw-with-these-covers if the bike's never been jetted) out by an extra 1/8th of a turn should fix it.
Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoetComment
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Thanks allot. Lots of help. Now to find some extra time.
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Another thing to look at is your exhaust clamps for a leak. Just another possibility. I had the same symptoms and turned out my midpipe/headers clamp was loose.
Buuuut on the other hand you just installed this pipe, so +1 to BarMatt. Wouldn't hurt to spend 5 minutes and check those clamps/bolts though, especially since you were messing with that stuff.'01 TL1000R
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yeah checked for sure. Clamps tightComment
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okay got time took tank off and air intake assembly. Where are the screws I turn in ?
Don't want to mistake anything.
Why couldn't these things be fuel injected...much easierComment
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For more details, see my website here:
Carbs out, looking at the bottom (in this pic the float bowl cover is off, but it doesn't need to be for what you are doing):
Screw marked Air/Fuel Screw (cap removed)
Looking at the whole carb stack:
Marked Pilot Screw in this picture -- one per carb.
Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoetComment
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Wow! Thanks allot. Not so indimidating now! I guess it is wise to wait until the morning. Might drill the wrong spot if I go do it now!Comment
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Note that the pictures are all from 98+ Kats. Pre-98 should be similar enough that you can't get confused. Check a parts fiche diagram if in doubt.
Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoetComment
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Also some people try to use the stock bolts on the headers which I know for Vance & Hines and D&D they are way to long.
You will never get the headers snug to the motor before bottoming out the bolts so you need to get shorter M8 bolts to remedy the problem.
Just thought Id add that in there since I did 2 headers on kats over this week.Comment
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can i adjust the air/fuel screw with the carbs still on the bike?Comment
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Not unless you:Originally posted by 06pakat
(A) know that the safety caps put there to comply with EPA rules have already been removed, AND
(B) Happen to have a 90 degree screwdriver (this is a specialty tool that has a long handle, a gear bezel, and a very short tip, designed specifically for coming at the screw from the side of the bike).
Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoetComment
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Removed stock caps on adjustment screws (pilot screw,air/fuel mixture screw etc.) and backed out 1/8th first and drove. Still a pop pop on decel, not as bad as without adjustment. So I took it apart again and backed out additional 1/8th with hardly any change after back together. Should I try again another turn or am I trying to fix something that cannot be fixed without rejetting?
Oh yeah, I am getting pretty quick with carb removal time!
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i have the same problem with d and d exhaust and i messed with the same screw, someone told me that it will do that as long as i dont have full exhaust because the stock pipes are so small on the headers that the pressure cant equalize......or something like that
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