Some basic knowledge questions

[dj420a]

Ive been searching since Friday night and I also DL'd the Pre98 manual. I still cannot find some basic questions I need answered.

All these questions are assuming you are sitting on the bike.

1. Is cylinder 1 on the left side of the bike?
2. Does the right side fuel line on the carbs go to the prime side of the petcock?
3. Does the left side fuel line of the carbs go to the reserve side of the petcock?
4.Does the vac line on the right side of the carbs go the back of the petcock?
5. Where does the line thats coming out of the fuel level assembly at the bottom of the fuel tank go too?

Thats it for now. Sorry for the simple questions. Im finally trying to put this bike together and Im almost done. Im just having some big problems getting the bike to start then idle correctly. Im thinking its the diaphram in the petcock, but I want to narrow it down to that.

Thanx big time guys
DJ

[dj420a]

Ok, I got the bike running, pretty decent actually. Just 2 probs.

1. After it warms, the idle wants to fluctuate with 200-300 rpms from the idle point.
2. I have it idling at 1500 rpms right now. When I try to tune it lower than that, I get a weird clanking sound coming from the area where the alternator is. If I lay my hand on the alternator, I can feel the clanking sound.

Any clues?

[The CyberPoet]

(A) Yes, the #1 Carb is the left-most from the rider's seated position.

(B) Yes, the vac line goes to the rear of the petcock on all models. I don't know about the fuel lines, but they should be interchangable (since both flow any time the petcock permits flow -- the RES and ON position dictate the pick-up in the tank, not which hose flows).

(C) The idle fluctuates because the different cylinders are pulling different amounts of vacuum, meaning they are putting out different amounts of power on detonation. A carb sync procedure using a carb sync (vacuum gauge) tool should correct this if the valves are set correctly.

(D) Knocking alternator could be the bearings or main shaft in the alternator being shot (the faster they spin, the less wobble a bad shaft would exhibit usually, being pulled back in the other direction as it spins). It could also be engine-related and carried through to the case of the alternator, which isn't isolated from the engine vibrations to the best of my knowledge on your model.

Good Luck!
=-= The CyberPoet

[dj420a]

Well I pulled the alt. and the gear has 6 teeth worth of spin on it. Also when I do spin it back and forth, it makes the same sound I here while its running.

So what needs to happen now? Do I need another alt. or can I replace the bearing/gear on it?

[The CyberPoet]

So what needs to happen now? Do I need another alt. or can I replace the bearing/gear on it?

Well, now you go to RonAyers.com (this is the alternator page for your bike) and look at parts diagrams to figure out if Suzuki offers the parts you need individually. You also shoot a PM to BraadaJim to ask if he has a spare alternator for your bike in the stuff SpecialK sent over to him, and what he wants for it.

Then decide how fast you need to be back on the road on two wheels -- your local dealer should be able to get the parts in about 4 days (order Monday, in on Thursday), while RonAyers will probably take about 2 to 2-1/2 weeks to deliver the stuff (but at a 20% or so savings over the local dealer). Bearings you might be able to get locally from a bearing vendor based on the size, but rest will be Suzuki-only stuff.

I expect from that parts diagram, you'll need items 20 (Suzuki part # 31780-27X50), 22, 3 through 7 (including 3A & 3B). Item #4 is quite pricey (and depending on the shaft condition may not need replacement)...
BUT the entire alternator brand new is painfully expensive new (Suzuki part number 31400-17C04 -- $495.57 via RonAyers, meaning your local dealer probably gets $550 - $600 for it!). My wholesale price, after shipping would save you about $15 on the alternator over RonAyers, but would add another week onto transit times... probably not worth it.

There's also an outfit out of California that I can't remember off the top of my head, but they specialize in rebuilding & trade-out alternators for motorcycles at far more reasonable prices (and offer a warrantee). I know about them because they are one of the few places to go if you ride something so old that the OEM manufacturer doesn't exist any more or if you have an one-off need. A few of the better automotive alternator rebuilders in any state may also be capable of rejuvenating the alternator for you (there's one in my area that has respun windings and replaced bearings in the past for other bikes to up the total output so I could run more accessories, but they kindly asked me not to mention them because it was such a PIA to them that they didn't want more MC work on a regular basis).

Finally, there's always eBay and the motorcycle breakers & junkyards out there that might be able to help you. But before you do anything else, give BraadaJim a shout -- he'll probably get you squared away at a price that will leave you with a smile on your face.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[dj420a]

Would an alt. from a 98 600F be compatible?

[The CyberPoet]

I don't know the cross-fitment. Special K would be the one to ask about that question. Pumping that same part number back through RonAyers.com in the "What bike does this part fit?" box will list all the bikes that a part number is assigned to -- if the part number lists both years, you're golden.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[dj420a]

Well I took the gear off the alt. and noticed that somebody had it apart before and never put the rubber dampers back in, doh. Everything else seems solid, so I think Im gonna just order the dampers for now.

Thanx alot Poet
DJ