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I just got my bike out, and while driving under high torque or load, it feels like the clutch is slipping, i thought it was because the chain was too loose. i readjusted the chain and it still does it, could it be old oil, have not changed it since last fall. iv tried to adjust the clutch cable and i have good play and does not seem too tight, if it is the clutch, should i replaced the clutch plates and steel plates?
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how many miles on the bike? -
Mileage, and what brand/type of oil did you use last time you did a change?
Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoetComment
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18000 miles, i think i used valvoline 10w30 or w40, oilComment
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Valvoline automotive or valvoline motorcycle-specific?Originally posted by grzielinski
If you used automotive (API SL/SJ/SM rated) oil, the content can contain enough friction modifiers that the clutch parts got coated.
See related thread:
Best Engine Oil to Use?
Suzuki generally rates their clutch packs as being expected to last 20-25k miles in inner-city (stop-n-go) driving -- if you ride a lot on the interstate or country roads where you aren't shifting often, that distance-to-failure should go way up. Which means unless you were abusing your clutch (power launches, wheelie attempts), I wouldn't expect it to be worn down at that mileage.
Bad news: if it is the oil friction-additive issue, there is no simple cure that will clean them adequately of the friction additives once they've soaked into the clutch pads (at least that I know of), and you'll need to change your oil (including dumping the cooler), run a fresh batch and dump that too before replacing all the clutch friction parts to make sure the new parts don't get contaminated either.
Good Luck!
=-= The CyberPoetComment
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I rode today, it only slips for skips in second gear, it does not slip in any others, i did find the reciept from last year, i baught the oil at the suzuki dealer, so the oil shoudl be ok. does any one know on these bike if the second gear does not fully engauge? is it a shift lever problem or internal. also does any one know the laws on licence plate display in michigan on a bike, does it have to be on the back? thanks for all the help.Comment
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i am sure you need it the back were did you want to put itComment
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Bad news. If you can't get it to slip in first, it isn't your clutch at all, but your tranny itself. Do a search on 2nd gear failures here at KR and you'll see what's involved; it will be painfully complicated or painfully expensive or both.Originally posted by grzielinski
Sorry
=-= The CyberPoetComment
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Great thanks for all the great info, did a lot of research today, found alot of posts on this issue, just a couple more question if you guys are not tired of me alredy, mine does not pop in to nutural, or have a hard shift, i check the shift lever (foot one) it seem to me that it shifting ok, if the problem is with the dogs on the gears, can the be reground or not, also if the shift fork pins are worn will that cause it in its self? i read to manual, does the head and jug need to be removed, it tell me to, but that is in the engine section to get at the crank and stiff, but i the pictures it looks like the head studs are completely on the one half of the case. If i need to remove the head again, can i get the head decked for more compression, it that possible or are the clearences to close for that. and help would be great. also if any one knows of anyone that has some of these parts new, please send them my way, thanks again for all the help.Comment
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Also i forgot in some of the pics it shows the gears with some wear on them are those gear bad? just checking to see what i need to look for if i take it apart. i guess i can insert the pic, is there a way i found this pic on a post from march 14 06 @ 736pm. thanks againComment
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The gears themselves aren't that expensive individually ($25 - $45), so you replace them instead of regrinding them. The expensive part is the labor involved in removing the engine from the bike and getting at the inside of the tranny (if you do it all yourself and already have all the tools, figure your parts bill should be under $250 including gaskets, necessary tranny parts, etc). The common labor time is a full three day weekend for a reasonable experienced mechanic at home (12 to 20 shop hours for a bike mechanic with full facilities is what runs the repair bill so high).
As for the rest, I leave it for those who have been deep in their trannies to answer -- try posting in the mechanics forum or adding onto the existing thread there.
Cheers
=-= The CyberPoetComment
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Hi again, just got the bike apart, what is the limit for wear on the gears, when should i replace them, i know that the 2 gear gears are bad, but there are others with some wear, will these present a problem, if there any pictures anywhere i can look at for wear and when to replace them, also anyone know of a good place to get parts at a good price.Comment
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I have no clue what the wear limits are on the gears, but if in doubt, replace them.
Depending on how soon you need the parts:
Local dealer - 20% more, but you'll have 'em in four days.
RonAyers.com - discounted, but it'll take 2-1/2 weeks.
Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoetComment
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