What oil cooler did you use? I was going to recycle my 7 row 750 cooler to cool my b12 but I don't want to risk overheating her.
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Originally posted by Tekgnome View PostWhat oil cooler did you use? I was going to recycle my 7 row 750 cooler to cool my b12 but I don't want to risk overheating her.
Krey93 750 Kat
Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736
"I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"
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Originally posted by Kreylyn View PostHow are you counting the rows? The stock 750 cooler is like 14-15 rows in height.
Krey
Do you think that it will be sufficient enough to cool it?
+1
On the clutch setup let me know exactly how it fits, I want to keep it cable driven. Im assuming ill need to buy a bandit plate and have it rigged?Tekgnomes Crazy Custom Fighter
The Screaming Banshee <
Big Bore B12 swapped madness
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Originally posted by buffalobill View PostOn the cable clutch, the cover plate fits perfect, but I can't test if it pushes the rod in easy.
Seems the used engine I bought has a problem with the clutch plates, the push rod is bottomed out and don't push back into place. So I have to open the clutch cover and find the issue.Last edited by katanarider; 11-09-2015, 01:25 AM.My Katana-1100 17" wheel swap
http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=136894
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I have access to a grinder that can trim the push rod to 1/64" but ill need to know where to start. Its definitely an important detail.Tekgnomes Crazy Custom Fighter
The Screaming Banshee <
Big Bore B12 swapped madness
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I did shorten my push rod but until I find the issue with the engine, ????
The 1100 push rod is longer.
Anyway, my formula was to measure how far the 750 push rod was exposed, 54mm.
Then cut the 1100 push rod so 54mm was exposed.
This engine broke a chain on the road, so the push rod was snapped off and the sprocket cover was damaged.
I pulled the broken end out with tweezers.Last edited by buffalobill; 11-09-2015, 07:05 AM.
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Originally posted by buffalobill View PostI did shorten my push rod but until I find the issue with the engine, ????
The 1100 push rod is longer.
Anyway, my formula was to measure how far the 750 push rod was exposed, 54mm.
Then cut the 1100 push rod so 54mm was exposed.
This engine broke a chain on the road, so the push rod was snapped off and the sprocket cover was damaged.
I pulled the broken end out with tweezers.
I just realized my b12 I bought doesn't have one
Ill have to buy an oem one if it won't fit, and grind it down.
Does it matter which end I grind off? From the pictures of the b12 push rod both ends have a weird X shape the gsx750f I have is smooth on both ends.
Im converting to steel 530 front and rear sprockets with a 530 X ring chain. Its stupid expensive and probably overkill but a snapped chain is my worst fear. :/Last edited by Tekgnome; 11-09-2015, 08:53 AM.Tekgnomes Crazy Custom Fighter
The Screaming Banshee <
Big Bore B12 swapped madness
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Ok, the 750 and 1992 GSXR1100 push rod is the same dia. 6mm.
However, I just opened up my clutch case and found nothing wrong. I was able to push the inner rod back and forth easy, no trace of damage.
I'm thinking as I did before I tried this experiment, that the 750 cable mechanism just ain't got the power to push in the 1100 clutch diaphragm springs.
I know my GS1100G cable clutch is a bear to squeeze after installing heavy duty coil springs. Actually I was looking forward to using a hydraulic clutch.
I been waiting for somebody who actually has done this mod and can share their result.
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Can you clarify the question? The reason most people ditch the hydro clutch is because those units are more failure prone over all than a cable driven clutch. Also at the track you might find yourself heating the fluid up enough that your shifts might get soft.
So far as putting a cable actuated cover on, it's easy. Put the cable actuated cover on the engine and grind down the push rod until everything engages correctly-Steve
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Originally posted by buffalobill View PostI'm thinking as I did before I tried this experiment, that the 750 cable mechanism just ain't got the power to push in the 1100 clutch diaphragm springs.
Do you mean the clutch plate basket springs ?
EDIT: Here is a idea to get a measurement for the push pin...Smear a little grease on the pin, when the clutch is squeezed and the pin slides into the engine/dust wiper the grease will rub clean from the pin revealing a clean/degreased area on the pin. The excess grease on the pin shows how much material you need to grind off.
2nd EDIT: Actually, the last part of that idea is not a great idea now that I think about it. Why? Because there will always be a little space in between the engine and the worm gear/push mechanism. Any how, atleast it will give you some what of an idea of how much the pin travels. Maybe try the idea with 2 different size pins , but just don't grind any material off until you feel comfortable with the measurement.
Last edited by katanarider; 11-09-2015, 12:13 PM.My Katana-1100 17" wheel swap
http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=136894
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Yes, on the Kat600 to B12 swap that's currently sitting in my shed.-Steve
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