Edit (7/31) to add: this is a revised new and improved version from the one I posted yesterday (7/30). Since I uploaded the photos to a new hoster, I have added photos insted of making links to them.
I wasn't able to post this in the "How To"section, since I'm not a Mod, so it's here.
I first got the idea of installing an oil cooler fan last summer when, on Cyber's oil temp gage, I saw a reading of 350F (177C). It wasn't a particularly hot day but I was going from stop light to stop light without any significant constant speed. Therfore the oil never had a chance to cool down.
I did some R&D work with a Kawasaki Ninja 250 water radiator fan wired backwards so it would blow. Normally it sits behind the radiator and pulls the air through it.
![](http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1192/969489846_2a7d685826.jpg)
![](http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1052/969489908_bb5e585f49.jpg)
There is also an exsisting thread on the subject of Oil Cooler Fan(s) that I did some posting.
But now on with the show.
I came to the conclusion of using 2 SPAL 6-1/2" fans which are designed for motorcycles & ATV's for the reason that they are very thin. You can see the spec sheet here. I bought the fans from A1 Electric Automotive Accessories. Edit to add: I used the raised 3/4" (0.75) mounting tabs. Part #30130017. They are sold in a set of four.
Now these size fans fit the cooler just about perfect.
However, the intake side, which will face the cooler has about 4 inches of dead space.
![](http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1217/969504034_72507b56bc.jpg)
Yet even so the actual installation of the fan shows that the fans do not completely block the air from entering. Time will tell if this fan works or not.
![](http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1219/969504056_87095643a2.jpg)
After choosing the fan the next step is fabricating a mounting system for the two fans.
One thing I found out is that the cooler needs to be positioned forward from the stock location. Even though the fans are thin, the oil cooler still needed to be relocated. I originaly was going to cut the lower OEM brackets off with my Dremel tool and weld them back on. However, there was no way I was going to be able to maneuver the cut off wheel in such a tight place. So plan B. Using some scrap aluminium I already had, I fabed up 2 C shaped brackets along with a length of 1/8" thick aluminum cut to the length of the OEM tabs to mount the lower fans to. I used JB Weld & pop rivets to attach everything together, then I let it set overnight.
![](http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1361/969471994_0662741860.jpg)
![](http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1244/969472012_0034db0c3f.jpg)
![](http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1033/969489828_1585db33b4.jpg)
Now to tackle the top bracket. Again I used what I already had, so I cut a length of L-shape aluminum to mount the fan to.
![](http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1276/969504078_99050e950b.jpg)
The cutouts in the L-bracket are for clearence. The lower triple tree contacts the aluminum bracket. If I had used just plain 1/8" bar like the bottom, cutouts would not be necessary. But I figured using the L-bracket for more rigidity, since the top bracket is carring the load of the two fans.
Now I just realised I did not take a picture of how the fans are bolted to the top bracket. But I do have one pic that shows the outside mounting tab bolted to the bracket.
![](http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1026/969504102_879819223b.jpg)
The top inside plastic fan mounting tab was enlarged with a drill bit to allow the bolt that attaches the oil cooler to the frame to also fasten the inside mounting tabs on both fans. I did not drill holes for the lower center brackets because the dificulty in getting an accurate measurement. So the fans are mounted at 3 points.
The hardware needed was two 8mm x 60mm bolts to replace the oil cooler's OEM mounting bolts. Two spacers: 1/2" inside diameter x 3/4" in length for the top spacer mounts in between the L-bracket and the frame. And four nuts & bolts: 6mm x 25mm (I think, or 20mm), with washers to mount the fans to the brackets.
![](http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1346/969471968_8c42f17ee1.jpg)
These materials I bought at Ace Hardware since they have a greater collection of metric stuff than what Orchard Super Harware does.
Now that the mounting brackets are done, next is the electrical.
I went to Pep Boys to buy Pilot Automotive's pre-wired harness with relay and switch. It's designed for driving lights etc. I mounted the relay on the lower nose cowling.
![](http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1177/969490030_47d7c5d58e.jpg)
Then I used a DIY GM electrical connectors, that I bought at Pep Boys, to make two male/female plugs to power the fans via the relay.
![](http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1438/969471862_c2541948a6.jpg)
![](http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1215/969471876_8f5cacf45e.jpg)
![](http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1368/969471904_0c5e434173.jpg)
The main power for the the fans came from my Blue Sea fuse box. The power for the relay switch came from taping into the the parking/third eye light. And the switch was installed at the handlebars to manually turn on and off the fans.
![](http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1279/969490022_8b48b9f42c.jpg)
I also wired in a LED so I can tell when the fans are on. With that Kawasaki fan I could not hear if the fan was on or not.
All electrical connections were spliced, soldered then protected with heat shrink tubing.
I connected my multimeter to determine what the amps it was drawing so I could use the correct fuse. It spiked at 20-21 amps then settled down to around 8 +- amps. I put in a 20 amp fuse and cycled the fans a couple times to see if it would blow. Nothing so far. Mind you, this was with the engine off. If someone has a way off improving the spiking, post it.
I finished everything this evening so I have not been able to test the cooling effect. This week it's supposed to be just under 100F (38C) so I should be able to post the actual results at the end of the week.
If you have any questions post them and I'll try to answer them in a timely fashion.
Materials Needed:
2 - Spal fans, pull type (part #30100402) ($55.00 x 2)
2 - Sets (8 total) of 0.75" raised mounting tabs. (Part #30130017) ($3.00 x 2)
Miscelanous aluminum harware
JB Weld (your option)
Pilot wiring harness (part #PL-HARN3) ($20.00)
All of nuts/bolts/washers & spacers below cost no more than $20.00. I ended up buying more than what I needed.
2 - 8mm x 60mm x 1.5 (I believe the pitch is 1.5)
4 - 6mm x 25mm (20mm?) x 1.0 (again, I did not pay much attention to the pitch)
4 - 6mm washers
4 - 6mm nylon lock nuts
2 - male electrical connectors (your choice here)
2 - female electrical connectors (ditto)
2 - 3/4"L x 1/2"I.D. spacers (plastic or metal, I used metal)
20 amp fuse
I believe that's everything. If I miss something I'll add it later.
I wasn't able to post this in the "How To"section, since I'm not a Mod, so it's here.
I first got the idea of installing an oil cooler fan last summer when, on Cyber's oil temp gage, I saw a reading of 350F (177C). It wasn't a particularly hot day but I was going from stop light to stop light without any significant constant speed. Therfore the oil never had a chance to cool down.
I did some R&D work with a Kawasaki Ninja 250 water radiator fan wired backwards so it would blow. Normally it sits behind the radiator and pulls the air through it.
![](http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1192/969489846_2a7d685826.jpg)
![](http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1052/969489908_bb5e585f49.jpg)
There is also an exsisting thread on the subject of Oil Cooler Fan(s) that I did some posting.
But now on with the show.
I came to the conclusion of using 2 SPAL 6-1/2" fans which are designed for motorcycles & ATV's for the reason that they are very thin. You can see the spec sheet here. I bought the fans from A1 Electric Automotive Accessories. Edit to add: I used the raised 3/4" (0.75) mounting tabs. Part #30130017. They are sold in a set of four.
Now these size fans fit the cooler just about perfect.
![](http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1086/969490066_48552a6d60.jpg)
However, the intake side, which will face the cooler has about 4 inches of dead space.
![](http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1217/969504034_72507b56bc.jpg)
Yet even so the actual installation of the fan shows that the fans do not completely block the air from entering. Time will tell if this fan works or not.
![](http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1219/969504056_87095643a2.jpg)
After choosing the fan the next step is fabricating a mounting system for the two fans.
One thing I found out is that the cooler needs to be positioned forward from the stock location. Even though the fans are thin, the oil cooler still needed to be relocated. I originaly was going to cut the lower OEM brackets off with my Dremel tool and weld them back on. However, there was no way I was going to be able to maneuver the cut off wheel in such a tight place. So plan B. Using some scrap aluminium I already had, I fabed up 2 C shaped brackets along with a length of 1/8" thick aluminum cut to the length of the OEM tabs to mount the lower fans to. I used JB Weld & pop rivets to attach everything together, then I let it set overnight.
![](http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1361/969471994_0662741860.jpg)
![](http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1244/969472012_0034db0c3f.jpg)
![](http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1033/969489828_1585db33b4.jpg)
Now to tackle the top bracket. Again I used what I already had, so I cut a length of L-shape aluminum to mount the fan to.
![](http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1276/969504078_99050e950b.jpg)
The cutouts in the L-bracket are for clearence. The lower triple tree contacts the aluminum bracket. If I had used just plain 1/8" bar like the bottom, cutouts would not be necessary. But I figured using the L-bracket for more rigidity, since the top bracket is carring the load of the two fans.
Now I just realised I did not take a picture of how the fans are bolted to the top bracket. But I do have one pic that shows the outside mounting tab bolted to the bracket.
![](http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1026/969504102_879819223b.jpg)
The top inside plastic fan mounting tab was enlarged with a drill bit to allow the bolt that attaches the oil cooler to the frame to also fasten the inside mounting tabs on both fans. I did not drill holes for the lower center brackets because the dificulty in getting an accurate measurement. So the fans are mounted at 3 points.
The hardware needed was two 8mm x 60mm bolts to replace the oil cooler's OEM mounting bolts. Two spacers: 1/2" inside diameter x 3/4" in length for the top spacer mounts in between the L-bracket and the frame. And four nuts & bolts: 6mm x 25mm (I think, or 20mm), with washers to mount the fans to the brackets.
![](http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1346/969471968_8c42f17ee1.jpg)
These materials I bought at Ace Hardware since they have a greater collection of metric stuff than what Orchard Super Harware does.
Now that the mounting brackets are done, next is the electrical.
I went to Pep Boys to buy Pilot Automotive's pre-wired harness with relay and switch. It's designed for driving lights etc. I mounted the relay on the lower nose cowling.
![](http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1177/969490030_47d7c5d58e.jpg)
Then I used a DIY GM electrical connectors, that I bought at Pep Boys, to make two male/female plugs to power the fans via the relay.
![](http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1438/969471862_c2541948a6.jpg)
![](http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1215/969471876_8f5cacf45e.jpg)
![](http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1368/969471904_0c5e434173.jpg)
The main power for the the fans came from my Blue Sea fuse box. The power for the relay switch came from taping into the the parking/third eye light. And the switch was installed at the handlebars to manually turn on and off the fans.
![](http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1279/969490022_8b48b9f42c.jpg)
I also wired in a LED so I can tell when the fans are on. With that Kawasaki fan I could not hear if the fan was on or not.
All electrical connections were spliced, soldered then protected with heat shrink tubing.
I connected my multimeter to determine what the amps it was drawing so I could use the correct fuse. It spiked at 20-21 amps then settled down to around 8 +- amps. I put in a 20 amp fuse and cycled the fans a couple times to see if it would blow. Nothing so far. Mind you, this was with the engine off. If someone has a way off improving the spiking, post it.
I finished everything this evening so I have not been able to test the cooling effect. This week it's supposed to be just under 100F (38C) so I should be able to post the actual results at the end of the week.
If you have any questions post them and I'll try to answer them in a timely fashion.
Materials Needed:
2 - Spal fans, pull type (part #30100402) ($55.00 x 2)
2 - Sets (8 total) of 0.75" raised mounting tabs. (Part #30130017) ($3.00 x 2)
Miscelanous aluminum harware
JB Weld (your option)
Pilot wiring harness (part #PL-HARN3) ($20.00)
All of nuts/bolts/washers & spacers below cost no more than $20.00. I ended up buying more than what I needed.
2 - 8mm x 60mm x 1.5 (I believe the pitch is 1.5)
4 - 6mm x 25mm (20mm?) x 1.0 (again, I did not pay much attention to the pitch)
4 - 6mm washers
4 - 6mm nylon lock nuts
2 - male electrical connectors (your choice here)
2 - female electrical connectors (ditto)
2 - 3/4"L x 1/2"I.D. spacers (plastic or metal, I used metal)
20 amp fuse
I believe that's everything. If I miss something I'll add it later.
Comment