Exhaust Installation Issues

[Spyderturbo007]

I was hoping someone could help me with this installation. I have everything together, I think, but it's not very secure. There seems to be no stability since I can just grab it and the entire thing flops around like a wet rag.

I've read of a gasket that needs transferred over, but I can't seem to find a gasket anywhere. Here are some pictures.

This just seems like an excessive amount of space, but the clamp is as tight as I feel comfortable making it. The pictures are huge, so you can zoom in after opening the thumbnail.




Here is the other clamp connecting the pipe to the muffler. It's pretty tight, but still seems like there is a gap.



This plastic holder thing I'm not sure about. They give you a dumptruck load of hardware to use, but there isn't any mention of how it fits with the stock rubber gasket that's in the bracket mounted to the rear footpeg.



And lastly, here is the end of the stock exhaust, just to make sure I didn't miss anything.

[cintidude04]

There is an exhaust gasket between the collector and mid pipe. Can be easily found searchin through bikebandit.com's fiche for your bike.

[Spyderturbo007]

I think I found it. It's not a gasket like you would find on a car, correct? It's a thick woven wire mesh that looks like a short piece of exhaust pipe?

I went through and cranked down on all the connections and it seems much more stable now. It wiggles a little, but as one piece. I guess I was just to gentle at first.

I did find a leak, but I'm not sure there is anything I can do. It's at the base of the can where the rivets are. Is that going to be an issue? Should I try and return it to the eBay seller I bought it from?

Here is where it's leaking. All the other connections are fine.

[cintidude04]

Sounds like a faulty can, I would return it.

[Spyderturbo007]

I'll have to try and get a hold of him. It's an eBay seller who isn't an "authorized dealer" so I don't think I can send it back to the manufacturer under warranty. Do you think it's a big deal or is it something that should be replaced? I really don't feel like ripping this off, installing the new one and then doing it all over again. Needless to say, I'll have to pay for shipping all over again.

Thanks!

[atremblay]

I would call and find out if it is warrantied or not...

[Spyderturbo007]

Scorpion Exhausts is located in England and according to their website there is only one authorized dealer in the US. Maybe I'll send them an email instead.

[Spyderturbo007]

Quick question, does anyone get backfiring on deceleration with the Scorpion exhaust? It's not just once, but multiple times. It's not a really loud bang, but a bunch of smaller ones if that makes and sense. Mine sounds like a really old muscle car when I get off the throttle and I want to make sure that's normal.

[steves]

Back fire or popping?

Sounds like it's popping on decel. That's sort of common. Some tuners would tell you to expect at least a little of that.

[cintidude04]

Yea the popping on decel is common.

[5forty2]

I would try to put a new rivet in there myself rather than messing with a bunch of down time. Maybe a slightly bigger one.

[Wild-Bill]

Popping on decellaration means you're running lean. Try backing the AF screws out 1/8-1/4 turn each.

[Spyderturbo007]

Popping on decellaration means you're running lean. Try backing the AF screws out 1/8-1/4 turn each.

I was wondering if you could expand on that a little bit? I'm just trying to equate this to what I know about cars. How would a lean AFR effect anything during deceleration since there shouldn't be any fuel entering the combustion chamber? I'm assuming it has something to do with it being carbureted and I'm a fuel injection type of guy.

I'm not doubting your experience, just wanted to get an idea of why. I was planning on pulling the carbs and adjusting the AFR screws anyway, but this gives me a little more motivation to find the time. :

[05RedKat600]

I was wondering if you could expand on that a little bit? I'm just trying to equate this to what I know about cars. How would a lean AFR effect anything during deceleration since there shouldn't be any fuel entering the combustion chamber? I'm assuming it has something to do with it being carbureted and I'm a fuel injection type of guy.

I'm not doubting your experience, just wanted to get an idea of why. I was planning on pulling the carbs and adjusting the AFR screws anyway, but this gives me a little more motivation to find the time. :

You start out with an engine that is turning high RPM with a carb that is open, flowing freely. Next, you close that slide. This has the effect of creating a tremendous vaccuum in the intake manifold (CHOKE!). This vaccuum does curious things:
1. It pulls air and fuel from wherever it can--including the idle and low speed jetting in the carb.
2. To counteract the vaccuum, air will take the path of least resistance--including sucking exhaust gases back into the combustion chamber during valve overlap (the brief period of time that the exhaust and intake valves are open at the same time.

So what does this mean? Well, now you have a disproportionate rich mixture heading for the cylinder AND what little oxygen is drawn in is further diluted by gases that are coming back into the chamber from the exhaust valve. The result is poor, incomplete combustion! Depending on the temperature of the exhaust pipe and gases, reignition is possible once this mixture is introduced into a more oxygen rich environment. This produces the "pop."

Why does a lean running engine have a tendency to excessively pop? The exhaust gas temperature of a lean engine is substantially higher than one that is running on the rich side ( an EGT probe will show this). Therefore, the high EGT serves to heat the pipe more and the gases themselves become a much better source of re-ignition. By richening things up, you are cooling down the exhaust temp and therefore reducing potential re-ignition sources.

It can also be caused by a leak in your exhaust system, allowing air in and igniting the unburned gases.

[steviemac]

Taking into consideration that you have already identified a leak in your exhaust I would start with the latter part of redkat600 advice first. You're better off getting your exhaust leak sorted before messing around with the air/fuel mix as you could end up chasing your tail trying to get the right mix when all along the leak is dictating how much air is being sucked in at any time. For example; the leak could get gradually worse and the first point that you would go to is to reset the air/fuel screws and then the cycle continues! Save your self the headache and return the faulty exhaust or make damn sure that it's fitted correctly!! no leaks...