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New sprockets.

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  • #16
    Originally posted by shpielers View Post
    +1

    I went down 2 in the rear. Don't really notice a loss of oooomph, but lower rpms and less noise is definitely nice. Also made my speedometer almost spot on

    So your running 15/47??


    What is your tank range now????

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    • #17
      Originally posted by rk97 View Post
      Will a 16t fit up front?

      Front sprockets are so much cheaper and easier to change, and also dont affect chain adjustment nearly as much. I was planning to experiment with 14/15/16 and stock rear. The 14 would be for city and track rides, the 16 would be for long trips, and the 15 would be for everything in between (like a long trip where I plan some twisty riding when I gets there)
      A tooth is a tooth is a tooth, adding or subtracting still effects the chain the same way, it's math.

      A 14t puts a tighter radius on the chain and increases the pressure on the rollers, a 16t will require the removal of a sprocket cover mounting point.

      The gear ratios with your above sprocket choices are as follows;

      14/45 = 3.21
      15/45 = 3.00
      16/45 = 3.81

      Small steps for your choices, I doubt you'd really notice the changes.

      As for track riding, your gearing is dependent on the layout of the track really, tight turns, short straights? or a few tight turns and a few sweepers with a long straight or two? one gear set up isn't suited for all.
      I'd recommend running your stock gearing and decide from there where the weak spots are.

      Personally I'd find a happy medium set up and run that, constantly changing sprockets is a pain, front or rear.
      http://www.7thgeardesigns.com
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      '90 Suzuki 750 Kat

      "Shut up and drink your gin" - Fagin (Oliver Twist)
      "But, as is the usual scenario with a Harley it was off-line when it crashed," Schwantz added dryly.
      "You didn't hear what I meant to say" - my Son

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      • #18
        I'm not looking to win races on a katana, just to have a prayer at keeping modern 600's in sight under acceleration.

        Between the weight disadvantage, and the power disadvantage, shorter gearing is the only shot at keeping them close enough to (re)pass under braking. I'll probably run out of gear and top-out under 130mph, but at least the SV's should be behind me :P

        It sounds like 15 tooth is the only viable option up front, and I'll buy 45 and 48 tooth rears. Then I just have to install the chain with the 48 on the wheel, and the axle as far forward as the adjusters will allow.
        -Chris
        **if what I said can be taken two ways, and one of them offends you, I meant it the other way.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by rk97 View Post
          It sounds like 15 tooth is the only viable option up front, and I'll buy 45 and 48 tooth rears. Then I just have to install the chain with the 48 on the wheel, and the axle as far forward as the adjusters will allow.


          You could modify the axle slots longer, then modify the OEM chain adjusters with longer bolts. Or swap the chain adjusters with SV adjusters that have the offset bolt adjustment, and use longer bolts as well. Some clean up on the caps fro the SV adjusters and you get some nice looking aluminum caps as well that would work better than OEM.


          That would work a lot better than your concept... as chains "stretch" and that's the point of the adjusters to start with. So while you start at close as possible, they won't stay that way after some use. Increase adjustment on the other hand, will give you the range you want to swap out sprockets.


          Krey
          93 750 Kat



          Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

          "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

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