[DooD]

Nope, adjusters are still there. I'll have the instructions up tonight for y'all.....

[DooD]

Style 2) Other models that require brazing

1) Remove the damping rods from the fork tubes

2) Dissassemble the adjustable rebound mechanism in the top of the damping rod. This is usually operated with a "D"-shaped rod connected to the fork cap and operated with a screwdriver. The rebound mechanism is usually held into the top of the damping rod with a wire clip or a standard circlip.

3) The "D" shaped adjustment rod that is attached to the cap must be removed with a hacksaw. Cut the rod off within 25mm (1 inch) from the cap. The exact length is not critical.

4) The damping rod has extra holes originally used for detent purposes. These must be brazed shut. Once they are brazed they must be filed smooth. The rebound feed hole must also be brazed shut and smoothed down.

5) You may want to drill a new rebound hole in the small diameter portion of the damping rod below the head. This is determined by the setting you normally use. For example: if you use the #2 setting, check what size hole is being used when the adjuster is in that position. Use a set of numbered drills and find the corresponding size drill for the rebound hole in the #2 position. Drill a new rebound hole the size you just determined. Locate it 20mm below the head and lightly de-burr the opening.

Note: If you like the rebound damping best when it is set at another setting, like 1,3, or 4, then drill your new rebound hole to the corresponding size for that adjustment.

6) Follow the standard installation instructions. This included drilling the additional compression holes (located at the bottom of the damping rod).

[The CyberPoet]

What a PIA... does that apply to all 98+ Kats?

Hmmm...
=-= The CyberPoet

[DooD]

I'm not sure....It might be an '03+ thing, 'cause like you said, the fork is different on the '03+, but REALLY, I have no idea.

The shop I had it done at took 4 hours to do the complete rebuild and all the work. Oil was $15, seals were $20. The labor costs were $340 @ $85/hour. The guy who did it was a suspension tech, so I'm going to assume that everything was done right!

[bamarama]

I hope this doesn't apply to pre-98's. The main thing is having to braze the holes up, since I don't have the equipment here at home, I'd have to find time while at school to go do it. Maybe I'll call racetech and see what they say for pre-98's. I'll let yall know what I find out.

[The CyberPoet]

I'm not sure....It might be an '03+ thing, 'cause like you said, the fork is different on the '03+, but REALLY, I have no idea.

As I noted before, the only difference in the forks is the lower (receiving) tube that the calipers and axel mount on -- the rest of the fork (internals, etc) are identical from 98 through 06. That would imply it's required for all 98+ models.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet