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**Black_peter** · 09-28-2005, 11:30 AM

Making sure that everything is lubed up and clean will help. the post Kat like the pre uses a twin piston caliper, a piston on each pad.
So unlike the front there is no mechanism to "center" the caliper.
Make sure that the pistons are clean and the seals are in good shape, also that the pad retainers are clean. Finally check the mounting plate and torque arm, make sure they are not pushing the caliper one way or another. Also see that the pistons are working cleanly the outside one maybe dragging. After all that

There is a slight tendancy for the outer pad to touch first however with brake fluid and the pressures we are talking about it is slight.

**md86** · 09-28-2005, 04:22 PM

HH rear pads ? Be careful with them REALLY GRABBY things so you don't lock up the rear wheel ...

**KnightRider** · 09-28-2005, 04:43 PM

Originally posted by md86

HH rear pads ? Be careful with them REALLY GRABBY things so you don't lock up the rear wheel ...

I have EBC HH rear as well.....and I am going back to stock or similar. I actually have a bid on some DP rear pads on ebay going for quite cheap.

I also don't recommend the rear HH pads because the pad material rides to high on the rear rotor.....causing the rear rotor to emit a terrible ringing noise......I triple checked that these were the correct pads listed for the rear....

I thought I would be okay too if I used the rear brake lightly.......on dry pavement its not so bad, but any amount of road grime, water, dirt, and that rear is going to lock.

Please be careful.

**mx916** · 09-29-2005, 08:05 AM

I have the DP pads and like them alot. The broke in quickly and have good feel and stopping power.

**skasner** · 09-29-2005, 08:22 AM

hrmmm... NOW YOU TELL ME.

well they aren't broken in yet (only about 25 miles on them so far) so i'm definately not having any lock-up issues. i'll just be careful with it. if i'm going to a SS bike in a year or so i might as well get used to powerful brakes.

i picked the HH pads because someone on here (i forget who) had a big post about how awesome they were on his Kat.

**md86** · 09-29-2005, 03:49 PM

On the FRONT caliper , they rock . I have a rear disc that's all grooved up from the previous owner , and stock compound pads in that caliper , and even thought it takes some effort , I can still get the rear to lock up . Can't imagine how grabby that brake would feel compared to my setup .

**The CyberPoet** · 09-29-2005, 09:34 PM

Re: Brake Pad Wear...

Originally posted by skasner

When I looked at the old pads... one had at most 1mm of pad left, and the other one had been completely worn down into the metal bracket... no pad at all.

So the question is... should they have worn evenly? Or is it normal for one to wear slightly more than the other? It was the outside pad (furthest from wheel) that was toast.

Also is there any trick to wearing new pads in quickly, or is it just a matter of time?

They should have worn perfectly evenly. The fact that they didn't indicates that your rear caliper needs to be torn down and have the caliper pistons cleaned and the seals replaced. Make sure you also read the part about removing the brake shims when using the EBC (or most brands of aftermarket brake pads in the rear of a 98+ Kat)....

--------

I have the EBC HH's all around (along with teflon-lined SS brake lines)...

Originally posted by KnightRider

I have EBC HH rear as well.....and I am going back to stock or similar. I actually have a bid on some DP rear pads on ebay going for quite cheap.

I also don't recommend the rear HH pads because the pad material rides to high on the rear rotor.....causing the rear rotor to emit a terrible ringing noise......I triple checked that these were the correct pads listed for the rear....

You have one of two problems if they are emitting a ringing noise, either:
(A) You installed them without removing the stock brake pad shims, which do not get used in conjunction with any of the EBC rear pads on the Kats; OR
(B) the guide pins aren't clean.

Brake noise is almost always from the pads vibrating on their carrier pins, and this case is no exception. Removing the pins and cleaning them down with scotchbrite and carb or brake cleaner should remove the squeel... At least if the shims are out.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

**KnightRider** · 09-30-2005, 04:57 AM

Well, it must be that the pins are dirty. I know the shims aren't left in there. I should do caliper tear downs this winter...as well as carb sync and a valve job, lol.

I can see where my pad material is riding too high on the brake rotor as well, but it seems to me this is because this was a multi-fit pad. Im gonna try the DP's just to make sure. But I will clean everything as said and see if my ringing goes away.

**skasner** · 09-30-2005, 07:36 AM

wtf... who told you the shims/anti-jitter things need to come out? and why?

i installed my pads with them, and i'm having no problems at all... yet. the rear brake is working great!

**The CyberPoet** · 09-30-2005, 01:03 PM

Originally posted by skasner

wtf... who told you the shims/anti-jitter things need to come out? and why?

i installed my pads with them, and i'm having no problems at all... yet. the rear brake is working great!

If you installed EBC rear pads, then you can look down in there and see that the pads don't engage the rotor flatly when they are first installed (because the shims cause one edge of the pads to engage first, at about a 8 to 12 degree angle. This means seating for mating is off until the pad wears down to the point that the angle is ground off the pads. It also means the parts that are not in contact with the rotor are being covered by road-grime/oils/etc, that will later come in contact with the rotor, reducing the effective stopping capabilities of the rear brake due to contamination. Also note that the EBC HH pads can easily build up enough heat to melt the plastic cover over the OEM shims off and onto the backer-plate of the pads in as few a dozen miles.
All of this is applicable to their copper-colored backer plated HH pads; if the plates have a silvery holed-metal plate over the copper-colored backer plate it may not apply any more, as it would indicate they have made changes to the design.

I worked through it with EBC's Race Tech about Sept of '04, and they concurred enough to send me a free replacement rotor, 2 free sets of HH pads and to send messages upstream to their fabrication facilities to please sticker the pads' packaging to warn of that. In doubt? Give a call to Garry Gallagher over at EBC Racing Tech at (425) 486-1244, who is their technology guy & worked through the issue with me. Be sure to point him at item 11 in this 98-03 Kat 600 Rear Caliper fiche file when discussing it.

PS - I'm getting sick of the doubting Thomases (no offense, Thaz -- you know better). This is the third time I've been called out in the last 24 hours -- if you doubt me, do you own research and find out conclusively... like I did.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

**skasner** · 09-30-2005, 04:00 PM

i'm not doubting you Cyber, you usually know your stuff quite well.

i'm not sure what you mean by this "plastic coating" though. my pads were the smooth copper backed ones, but when i took the old pads out, there were these metal L bracket looking things that were against the back of them. (no plastic)

my hayes manual said to put them back in, and the pads didnt have any instructions with them, so i just put them back the way the were.

it said on the package to be careful for the first 250 miles while the pads broke in / seated with the rotor, so i expected poor performance starting out.

i've noticed improvements every time i ride lately, so shouldnt i be fine just leaving them like they are now?

i mean... won't they be flush, if they arent already, fairly soon as they wear down?

**The CyberPoet** · 09-30-2005, 04:31 PM

Originally posted by skasner

i'm not sure what you mean by this "plastic coating" though. my pads were the smooth copper backed ones, but when i took the old pads out, there were these metal L bracket looking things that were against the back of them. (no plastic)...

Those L-shaped brackets (the shims) were powdercoated with a thin layer of plastic as the bike came from the factory. Mine still had the original plastic on them when I went to change out the rear brakes on both my first and second Kats. When I stuck them back in under the EBC HH pads (2nd Kat), the plastic melted within a short distance -- but to be fair, I did intentionally grind the fuck out of the pads by riding with them engaged for several hundred yards to speed up the pad-to-rotor mating process.

Originally posted by skasner

i've noticed improvements every time i ride lately, so shouldnt i be fine just leaving them like they are now?

i mean... won't they be flush, if they arent already, fairly soon as they wear down?

If they are flush already, leave 'em. If they aren't flush yet, yank the shims out. The exposed part of the pad's friction materials can degrade very rapidly in the presence of water when it's not up to temp while riding (say you ride through an hour's rainstorm before they mate; risk losing it's sintered particles and leaving the exposed surface looking cratered instead of smooth).

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

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