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Cheap rear pads on the 'bay

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  • Cheap rear pads on the 'bay

    For you guys looking for rear pads
    Pre pads
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Suzuk...Q5fAccessories

    Post Pads
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Suzuk...Q5fAccessories

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Suzuk...Q5fAccessories
    1986 bf 323
    1990 zuk gs5
    2002 mitsu galant

  • #2
    ill trust my stopping power to a more reputable name thank you very much

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    • #3
      Well, to be fair, upgrading your rears isnt a huge difference. Fronts yes, but rears not so much. I was gonna put HH on the rear but sold them and bought some stock pads.
      90% of motorcycle forum members do not have a service manual for their bike.

      Originally posted by Badfaerie
      I love how the most ignorant people I have met are the ones that fling the word "ignorant" around like it's an insult, or poo. Maybe they think it means poo
      Originally posted by soulless kaos
      but personaly I dont see a point in a 1000 you can get the same power from a properly tuned 600 with less weight and better handeling.

      Comment


      • #4
        Exactly, you don't needed upgraded pads for the rear unless you like doing fishtails everytime you touch the brakes. I got 2 sets. One for the gs and one for a buddies' kat.
        1986 bf 323
        1990 zuk gs5
        2002 mitsu galant

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by scottynoface View Post
          Well, to be fair, upgrading your rears isnt a huge difference. Fronts yes, but rears not so much. I was gonna put HH on the rear but sold them and bought some stock pads.
          Not much on overly sensitive rear pads myself... I prefer to need to apply alot of presure before they will lock up, since it is so easy to lock it up.

          Fronts are a little different...

          Krey
          93 750 Kat



          Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

          "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Kreylyn View Post
            Not much on overly sensitive rear pads myself... I prefer to need to apply alot of presure before they will lock up, since it is so easy to lock it up.

            Fronts are a little different...
            Exactly. I'd rather the rear be spongy than grab with high performance pads. Oh yeah, fronts you will hear no argument from me. Love my HH's.
            90% of motorcycle forum members do not have a service manual for their bike.

            Originally posted by Badfaerie
            I love how the most ignorant people I have met are the ones that fling the word "ignorant" around like it's an insult, or poo. Maybe they think it means poo
            Originally posted by soulless kaos
            but personaly I dont see a point in a 1000 you can get the same power from a properly tuned 600 with less weight and better handeling.

            Comment


            • #7
              +1 on the HH front and stock rear... Lock ups SUCK!
              SAV



              Head up, eyes open... always!!!
              Be... and be not afraid.

              Comment


              • #8
                I'm one of the guys who does HH all around (as well as speedbleeders & upgraded brake lines)... after 25+ years of riding, but I also know that the rear brake lever needs to be perfectly adjusted when I swap out to HH pads, so I literally can't lock up the rear without taking my foot off the footpeg (i.e. - so lock-up is 1 mm past the furthest I can rotate my foot on the footpeg). Putting HH pads on the rear for a rider without tons of experience, and even then failing to adjust the lever is a formula for disaster...

                But I'll also go +1 on the trusted names in brakes (like tires, cheap-quality brake pads are a recipe for disaster). Stick to EBC or one of the other high-end brands (I'll stick to EBC; they've done right by me or my clients more than once when something did go wrong, including tossing me new rotors and new pads for free).


                Now, let's look at friction rates, and HH rates in particular:
                Brake pads are rated in two classes -- their cold rating (first) and then their hot rating (second). Thus a pad with a friction rating of GG has a friction rate in the "G" rating both when the brakes are room-temp and when they're hot (G rating is a grabbiness between 0.45 & 0.55, where a rating of 1.0 would be an instant lock-up in all circumstances, and a rating of 0 would be perfectly slippery under all circumstances).
                The H rating is assigned to any friction product that produces a friction rating of above 0.55 (anything through 0.99); there simply is no higher rated friction classification in the DOT brake friction categories. That's a huge range, and one brand's HH pads may not grab nearly as well as another brand's HH pads. It also means that the pads' behavior between cold and hot may vary radically, because if they grab at 0.56 when cold, and 0.85 when hot, they'd still be rated HH. Sticking to a known-good brand, one who is betting a big reputation on their products, is about the only assurance that the brake behavior of HH rated pads will remain relatively consistent across the entire temp range.

                As for Pyramid Parts brakes in specific:
                Pyramid Parts are chinese-made EBC knock-offs (right down to the parts-numbering scheme), and filings by EBC against Pyramid's US distributor charges them with trying to fool people into believing they are EBC-quality. Additional information in the filings state that the pyramid-products HH samples EBC has gotten their hands on contain actual abestos, something you NEVER want in your brake pads.

                Cheers
                =-= The CyberPoet
                Last edited by The CyberPoet; 06-15-2009, 11:40 PM.
                Remember The CyberPoet

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