Suspension lift?

[BLACKACIDEVIL]

I was wondering if there was a way to raise my bike? I'm 6'2" and 235+ lbs and it seems like when I sit down on it it squats alot in the back. It rides smooth on the rode so far but I haven't really flogged it yet. The front seems like it doves easy under braking and chatters across choppy bumps. Any thoughts or ideas would be great. Thanks.

[Black_peter]

First off check out motorcyclist magazines website.
They have some good how tos on setting up your suspension. This will guide you to setting up your "sag"
(the amount the bike sags when you are on it.)

Then if you still need more lift check out my "shock interchange guide" this will offer suggestions of better shocks that will increase the rear hight...

[The CyberPoet]

(1A) It sounds like your rear shock is toast (my guess based on the age of the bike), and/or the spring preload is off (as BP implied). Adjust that preload and see if it corrects the problem -- if not, time to search for a better/newer shock to replace the past-it's-prime one on the bike now.
(1B) I have the supreme shock for your bike on sale on eBay right now, brand new, but unless you've previously looked at motorcycle shock prices, I expect you'll get sticker shock: The last Ohlin SU801 "New" shock on the planet. The list price on this shock is $1179, but it's only at $484 right now on eBay.

(2) The rear dogbones (rear suspension links) for the pre-98 Kats are curved and I don't know of anyone who manufactures longer ones because of the complexity of engineering/milling that curvature correctly. There are quite a few pre-98 Kat owners who would like longer ones.

(3) The front end (forks) ought to be serviced every other year; odds are the oil is low and the seals are weak -- and the springs may be weak with age as well. Common solutions to front end dive are to:
(3A) Switch the forks to a heavier/thicker weight-bias fork oil (reduces dive some);
(3B) Precompress the front spring using a spacer (Black_peter has a nice write-up on how to do this); OR
(3C) Replace the stock springs with stronger springs from RaceTech (racetech.com) or another spring manufacturer -- figure it'll cost you around $140 for the replacement springs after shipping. IMHO, doing this in conjunction with the stock oil weight called for is the best solution, but I do recognize that 3A & 3B are far cheaper.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[BLACKACIDEVIL]

How do I adjust the preload?

[steves]

Does your tool kit have the adjustment wrench (spanner)? Crescent looking thing? You use that to "twist" the shock up or down adjusting the preload. You'll probably want to have your bike on the center stand...

[BLACKACIDEVIL]

It didn't come with the toolkit and my bike doesn't have a center stand. I guess I'm 0 for 2, lol.

[The CyberPoet]

I normally carry the shock spanners, but I have them on back-order right now as an add-on item (I do have one as a part of a full toolkit).

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[BLACKACIDEVIL]

I got a toolkit with the spanner wrench and my bike doesn't have a center stand. Is it still possible to adjust the preload?

[reconstyle]

Yea, its hard though you will need a lot of leverage because in theory you will be trying to lift the weight on the rear shock with a tool that's 8in long, you can have a friend hold the bike upright from the rear grab bar, then lift as much as he can, that will make it a lot easier, or, you could find a buddy who has a rear stand.

[BLACKACIDEVIL]

How about if I lube it up and throw a cheater bar on it? You think that would work?

[md86]

The toolkit has a cheater in it already . That little roundy looking thingy is your cheater . And I've adjusted mine on the sidestand before . It ain't THAT bad . Just get a good bite and push open-handed JUST in case your hand slips off .

[BLACKACIDEVIL]

Sounds good. I'll give it a shot after work today.

[Black_peter]

You're probably having issues from the nut. You get a huge mechanical advantage from the threads of the adjuster. To raise the preload you shouldn't need more than a few foot pounds. If you do it is possible that you need lube. Remember to loosen the top nut, that is the lock nut. You want to turn that one counter clock wise. Then drive the cheap ass spring adjuster down. Anyone want to tell me why Suzi make the adjuster cheaper than the lock nut???!! anyway because it is cheap sheet metal stamped into a nut it can deform causing it to bind. Since there is a lock nut go ahead and spray some lube in there...

[md86]

Older Kats stock shock had a preload ring , not the locknut deal .

[BLACKACIDEVIL]

I sprayed some wd40 on the ring and used the cheater bar and it worked like a charm. Thanks guys!