Squeal/Groans are induced by two factors:
Low frequency noise (groaning) - pad backings vibrating against the piston cylinders (cylinders not coming out straight normally; rebuilding the caliper, replacing/cleaning the pistons properly & replacing the seals usually takes care of it). If not, there are compounds that can be put on the back of the brake pad backer plates to absorb this low-oscillation vibration.
High pitched noise (squealing) - normally affiliated with the pads' backing plates dancing back and forth on worn carrier pins. Replace the carrier pins (cheap), or clean the existing ones & make sure they're not notched/worn. You may also want to spray the pins with silicone lube (but only while disassembled - you don't want that lube near your pads or rotors!).
Note that neither of these induce rotor wear. Rotor wear is a result of hard minerals (such as quartz in the form of sand particles) getting trapped between the rotors & pads and eating into the rotor as a result. The modern sintered brake mechanism works by laying down a layer of sintering material onto the rotor and then the pad interacting with that layer -- grooves in the rotor indicate that external debris got into it.
As for warping:
Warping happens because of use of rotors that are beyond their wear limits (too thin to contain the heat put into them), because external debris is inducing extra heat (clean the rotors regularly!), or because you are using higher-friction brake pads (such as HH pads) excessively for the rotor's design & mass. HH pads should not be used for short-/medium-track uses with lots of cornering/braking, nor canyon carving where you are frequently on the brakes heavily without giving them enough time to cool again (use GG pads for such use, or even FF pads if you are doing lots of short-track work).
As for the contact - contact EBC RaceTech. You'll find his contact info on their website.
Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet
Low frequency noise (groaning) - pad backings vibrating against the piston cylinders (cylinders not coming out straight normally; rebuilding the caliper, replacing/cleaning the pistons properly & replacing the seals usually takes care of it). If not, there are compounds that can be put on the back of the brake pad backer plates to absorb this low-oscillation vibration.
High pitched noise (squealing) - normally affiliated with the pads' backing plates dancing back and forth on worn carrier pins. Replace the carrier pins (cheap), or clean the existing ones & make sure they're not notched/worn. You may also want to spray the pins with silicone lube (but only while disassembled - you don't want that lube near your pads or rotors!).
Note that neither of these induce rotor wear. Rotor wear is a result of hard minerals (such as quartz in the form of sand particles) getting trapped between the rotors & pads and eating into the rotor as a result. The modern sintered brake mechanism works by laying down a layer of sintering material onto the rotor and then the pad interacting with that layer -- grooves in the rotor indicate that external debris got into it.
As for warping:
Warping happens because of use of rotors that are beyond their wear limits (too thin to contain the heat put into them), because external debris is inducing extra heat (clean the rotors regularly!), or because you are using higher-friction brake pads (such as HH pads) excessively for the rotor's design & mass. HH pads should not be used for short-/medium-track uses with lots of cornering/braking, nor canyon carving where you are frequently on the brakes heavily without giving them enough time to cool again (use GG pads for such use, or even FF pads if you are doing lots of short-track work).
As for the contact - contact EBC RaceTech. You'll find his contact info on their website.
Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet
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