BackBrake help

[Wish4busa]

I need to know how to put the back breaks in I have to put new ones in so I need to know how to push the pistons back in and how the go back together thanks for any help

[StevieB]

Use a c-clamp that will fit. Put one of the old brake pads inbetween the piston and the clamp, the other part of the clamp on the back of the caliper. If you have multiple-piston calipers, on both sides of the calipers, use one clamp per side, or one per piston, but be sure to screw down on the clamps evenly. This will push brake fluid back into the master cylinder, so be sure to protect painted surfaces against the fluid, which will lift paint.

This SHOULD work for you kat, but as I do not have one to look at right now, I could be off. Proceed with caution.

[md86]

c-clamp ? Hell , a screwdriver's all you need . Just do it like on a car ..... screwdriver behind old pad and pry the piston back . REAL easy , doesn't take much force .

[The CyberPoet]

98+ - Things to watch for:

Rear caliper pistons get gunked heavily early on, in part because of how Suzuki hung the caliper below the swingarm instead of above it. That means whenever you change pads, you really ought to swap out the caliper piston seals (about $13-$22 for the set for the 98+ rear, use part number 69101-05840 ), and clean the caliper pistons themselves really well.
There's more info here:

http://www.katriders.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=17146

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98+ Rear brake pad change:
open the bleeder valve, drain the fluid.
unbolt caliper halves.
Separate the caliper, remove the pads.
I use a c-clamp and a piece of wood (like a paint stir stick) over the caliper piston to push it inwards (but as noted above, I push the pistons out first and clean them + replace the seals). Remember, the bleeder has to be open or the caliper halves separated to push the pistons in -- the pressure behind the piston has to be able to be relieved or they won't want to move.
Clean the carrier rods for the pads.
Install the new pads. If they are EBC brand, keep the L-shaped brake shim out of the set-up; OEM, keep the L-shaped shim in the set-up. Other brands - no clue.
Reassemble everything, bleed the brakes thoroughly through both bleeders to get all the air out (one bleeder after the other).

Good Luck!
=-= The CyberPoet

[blkpitbull]

back "breaks"??????? oh BRAKES!!!!! LOL
When I first read it , I thought that his back was broke, "back breaks". sorry nevermind me!

[96gsxohio]

I recently changed my brakes on the front and using the C-Clamp was pretty easy, but those little plastic pieces inside the pistons fall out easy
I got the front brakes changed pretty easy and they work like a charm! The rear brake was more of my mistake. I wanted to get it done in a hurry and couldn't get the piston's out because I didn't have a C-Clamp and took apart the rear master cylinder and took the hoses off too. Now that I've allowed all that air in the system I can't get the brakes to work right again.
Does anyone have any info on getting the rear brake on a 1996 Suzuki 600 to work again after taking off and rehauling the master cylinder?[/img]

[The CyberPoet]

The bleeder valve -- refill the liquid at the pump end and pump the brake with the bleeder valve open until liquid starts to come out. Then use any traditional bleeding method.

You can shorten the time by refilling the caliper with liquid before you start using a huge syringe (remove the bleeder, insert the syringe in the hole, fill till topped off) or by reassembling the pistons into the caliper in a container of brake fluid.

For the bleeding portions, there's decent write ups here at KR. In general, it falls into a couple groups:
Black_peter prefers to use a might-mite pump or equivilent and pump the fluid down.
I prefer to use SpeedBleeders, which are specialty bleeders with an one-way valve in them (lets stuff out but not back in when only partially opened). I sell the SpeedBleeder kits for the Kats.

Caution: If you let the master cylinder seals dry out or if they are seriously deteriorated, you may not be able to move liquid with the brake any more. Test at the hose end to see if it is doing what it's supposed to before reattaching the hose to the caliper.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet