Yeah, on the parts list they're called intake pipes. I can be pedantic.
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Pedantic, no accurate. They are called pipes. Boot is slang if you will."I'm sorry, I didn't mean to upset you when I called you stupid. I thought you already knew..."
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Originally posted by buffalobill View PostLater for that, anyway it's obvious a 4>1 system would mean no belly pan. I like the belly pan!
So WOW, started up today no problem!
Sounded great, basso rumble!
One issue, it's idling up at 3-4 grand, idle screw don't do anything. So must be vacuum leak, and probably the O rings.
Bummer is I got some from bikebandit but they're a bit too small, 39.7mm inside dia. They won't stay in the groove long enough to put the pipe back on.
I'm gonna try to buy some O rings at the auto parts or hardware store.
It should be pretty fun with less weight than a stock bandit 1200.Last edited by Tekgnome; 11-14-2015, 09:23 AM.Tekgnomes Crazy Custom Fighter
The Screaming Banshee <
Big Bore B12 swapped madness
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Kan't get the idle below 4000.
Kinda stumped at this point.
Made sure of all possible vacuum leaks:
New O rings.
Tight hose clamps.
Tight cap on #4.
Idle screw adjusted to 0.
Could it be the CDI box?
I see conflicting opinions about CDI compatibility by Cyberpoet and Sweetlou.
Sweetlou "I have a katana 750 CDi on my Gixxer 1100 engine, and it runs fine. And part numbers are not always the same for the bikes, but they are the same part. Suzuki just liked to be screwy that way."
Sweetlou ain't been on since 2013
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If you think about it, the enricher supplies more fuel so, yeah. Did you sync yet? That could also cause it to idle high. You should be able to stall the motor with the idle screw turned out to nothing."I'm sorry, I didn't mean to upset you when I called you stupid. I thought you already knew..."
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Well, it's been sitting for over an hour in 50' air, so I took the airbox off for look at the carbs as they idle. Started without choke, warmed up and the idle climbed as it did.
Reading the Dynotune trouble shoot guide, it has to be very rich. The problem is in the range of the pilot air jet and the needle.
Tomorrow, I'll turn the pilot mix screws in from 2.5 out, down to 1.5, and drop the needle to it's lowest setting.
That will lean the lower rpms.
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Originally posted by buffalobill View PostWell, it's been sitting for over an hour in 50' air, so I took the airbox off for look at the carbs as they idle. Started without choke, warmed up and the idle climbed as it did.
Reading the Dynotune trouble shoot guide, it has to be very rich. The problem is in the range of the pilot air jet and the needle.
Tomorrow, I'll turn the pilot mix screws in from 2.5 out, down to 1.5, and drop the needle to it's lowest setting.
That will lean the lower rpms.
Sync is specific to the engine AND is supposed to be done every time they are removed even on the same engine.
Heat causing the rpm to rise suggests a vacuum leak. Out of sync is a vacuum leak.
Krey93 750 Kat
Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736
"I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"
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Originally posted by Kreylyn View PostSync is specific to the engine AND is supposed to be done every time they are removed even on the same engine.
KreyLast edited by katanarider; 11-15-2015, 10:45 AM.My Katana-1100 17" wheel swap
http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=136894
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Ok thanks, we have that out of the way.
I now have a very well synchronized engine that idles at 2500-2800RPM.
Progress but not there yet.
Well, just took the gauges off and put the caps back on.
It is idling down where it belongs, but kinda rough, needs throttle.
So I'll back out the pilot screws 2 turns.
Thanks, just could not figure the carb sync would have an impact on the RPMs, only on the roughness.Last edited by buffalobill; 11-15-2015, 01:06 PM.
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