[Black_peter]

Do the what steve said...
Do everything..
There isn't one trick.. You have to do everything..

[boxin]

Hi all...
I left the reservoir uncovered and the lever down all night but the problem persists, nothing has changed...

[steves]

I would then suspect a slight leak at the banjo bolt or fitting points. Go over them with a torque wrench. Did you replace the copper crush washers?

The problem is most certainly an air bubble in the distribution block. Sometimes the only way to fix that is bleeding and LOTS of it.

You can also try using a syringe to push fluid up into the system from the bleed screws but I have always made a mess trying that.

[jetmerritt]

Ok, one.

Leaving system with lever compressed makes no sense whatsoever. Then the port is plugged into the master and nothing can move. Just my .02 with what I understand. I suppose if the master is generating any pressure at all it may make the bubbles smaller and allow them to move a little through the line and settle on higher ground?

Two.

Is it possible the compensating port is plugged with a flake of rust or something in the master cylinder not allowing fresh fluid to enter or air to escape?

Three.

If I had one this stubborn I would reverse bleed it from the bleeders and pump it up through the top to push air the direction it wants to go instead of fighting to try to push bubbles in the opposite direction they naturally want to travel.

I had to fight with mine. I drained the system and my biggest problem was the union at the master cylinder. I just turned the bars to the left and leaned the bike to the left a little and SLOWLY cycled the lever and could see air escaping into the master cylinder with the cover off through the compensating port. Note: I did loosen the banjo bolt at the master prior to doing the above procedure to get out most of the air but the lever still wasn't right.

[steves]

Leaving the lever tied back will allow air to escape up through the M/C valve. If the valve is closed it has no where to go. Air is less dense than the fluid so given the choice it will migrate out of the system.

[jetmerritt]

|_____. .__|
[_________

Ok, I know its a crude illustration, but if the bracket is the piston in the M/C bore, the above would be when the lever is fully compressed, blocking the compensating port and in the same position as applying brakes where fluid would be compressed and system closed.

|______. ._|
_________[_

This diagram would be when lever is in released position where the compensating port is uncovered and open allowing free movement of air/fluid. I don't see/understand where fluid/air could go with the lever compressed.



I'm not saying it wouldn't work or help the situation, just when the lever is compressed it closes the system otherwise you would not be able to generate fluid pressure to compress calipers.

[boxin]

I would then suspect a slight leak at the banjo bolt or fitting points. Go over them with a torque wrench. Did you replace the copper crush washers?

The problem is most certainly an air bubble in the distribution block. Sometimes the only way to fix that is bleeding and LOTS of it.

You can also try using a syringe to push fluid up into the system from the bleed screws but I have always made a mess trying that.

I do not replace the washers, I should?
And the bolts have the necessary torque and more too!
Guys, if you really think it's a good idea to remove the distribution block, then I will. In this case, what is the best option? Two hoses from the master cylinder to each caliper or a hose from the master cylinder to a caliper, and a hose from a caliper to the other?

Ok, one.

Leaving system with lever compressed makes no sense whatsoever. Then the port is plugged into the master and nothing can move. Just my .02 with what I understand. I suppose if the master is generating any pressure at all it may make the bubbles smaller and allow them to move a little through the line and settle on higher ground?

Two.

Is it possible the compensating port is plugged with a flake of rust or something in the master cylinder not allowing fresh fluid to enter or air to escape?

Three.

If I had one this stubborn I would reverse bleed it from the bleeders and pump it up through the top to push air the direction it wants to go instead of fighting to try to push bubbles in the opposite direction they naturally want to travel.

I had to fight with mine. I drained the system and my biggest problem was the union at the master cylinder. I just turned the bars to the left and leaned the bike to the left a little and SLOWLY cycled the lever and could see air escaping into the master cylinder with the cover off through the compensating port. Note: I did loosen the banjo bolt at the master prior to doing the above procedure to get out most of the air but the lever still wasn't right.

How do I reverse bleeding?

|_____. .__|
[_________

Ok, I know its a crude illustration, but if the bracket is the piston in the M/C bore, the above would be when the lever is fully compressed, blocking the compensating port and in the same position as applying brakes where fluid would be compressed and system closed.

|______. ._|
_________[_

This diagram would be when lever is in released position where the compensating port is uncovered and open allowing free movement of air/fluid. I don't see/understand where fluid/air could go with the lever compressed.



I'm not saying it wouldn't work or help the situation, just when the lever is compressed it closes the system otherwise you would not be able to generate fluid pressure to compress calipers.

It makes sense, but even so I'm very confused, let steve back to tell us what he thinks.

[steves]

Going to a two hose setup is always easier to bleed, but it is possible to do.

This is a decision up to you boxin.

If you still can't get the lines to bleed then I would next attempt replacing the crush washers, then the lines.

Are you certain that the lines are correctly fabricated? A bad line could be leaking air from the fitting.

in fact, any air leak in the system... bolt joints, connections, bad hose can cause problems.

You should always use new crush washers each time you torque them.

[jetmerritt]

How do I reverse bleeding?

Get a large syringe, maybe from a veterinarian, attach a small hose from the syringe full of brake fluid to your bleeder screw, ditch the "speed bleeders" for this, they will cause trouble. Then open bleeder screw, compress syringe pushing fluid from caliper up to master cylinder. Making sure cover is off and brake fluid won't spill over onto your bike paint!

This should push air bubbles up in the direction they naturally want to go anyway and end up bubbling into the master cylinder leaving only fluid in the hoses. I would start with the left hand side caliper on the bike when you are sitting on it, then move to the right side.

That should be a fail safe way to fix your bike once and for all unless you have a mechanical problem such as incorrect assembly somewhere.

Hope that helps,

[scottynoface]

maybe from a veterinarian

Down here they can be had at any pharmacy/drug store.

[jetmerritt]

Down here they can be had at any pharmacy/drug store.

Never needed one, first place I figured to look.

[boxin]

Well, adjusting the connections with the hope of solving any possible leak, this happened:

http://img860.imageshack.us/img860/910/spma1374.jpg

I have no money, so I'll have to wait until next month to fix the problem.
I'll buy 2 lines and fill the system by gravity as you advised me.

According to what I measured, each line should measure 80 cm (Something like 31.5 inches)... Anyone know if you can find this information somewhere?

[mstngsrule68]

well i think we found our problem..........

[boxin]

Mmmm... I think not, rather we found a too stupid guy adjusting too much!

[steves]

There is no volume listed that I'm aware of.

However a badly connected fitting could have been your issue all along.

I would attempt to return the defective lines