[Meikol2]

Well that's kind of a personal question!

[blkpitbull]

That looks wonderful. Really look good on the red bike. Im gonna powdercoat mine soon, just havnt call to see if they can do it gunmetal or not.

I really likes!!

[BeekMan]

Great stuff. I just priced out a chrome type of powder coat, but it's hard to make a decision based on a 0.5"x1.0" sample chip. They want $45 per wheel plus $80 CAD for the powdercoat (~total of $136 US). Did you or they take out your bearings?

[RobRoy]

What is the difference between powder coating and painting

[trinc]

Great stuff. I just priced out a chrome type of powder coat, but it's hard to make a decision based on a 0.5"x1.0" sample chip. They want $45 per wheel plus $80 CAD for the powdercoat (~total of $136 US). Did you or they take out your bearings?

i took them to a shop and had them press the bearings out.
i also decided to put new bearings in as they are only 10-12 ea.
tim

[ThAzKat]

awesome tim, can't wait to see them on the bike!!

[md86]

What is the difference between powder coating and painting

Powder coating is baked on and looks a little different than just painting . Don't know a ton about it myself , other than apparently it isn't all that expensive to get your wheels done !

[The CyberPoet]

What is the difference between powder coating and painting

Painting applies a liquid that dries to form a solid thin layer.

Powder coating applies a hard-plastic-based material through electrostatic attraction and then is baked (melted) into place. There are a few distinct advantages, including:
As the material coats the piece, the electrostatic attraction automatically draws it to the spot with the least amount of coating, so the coat is exceptionally even, even for very irregular surfaces (such as raised lettering or complex corners);
Because of the electrostatic nature and the bake-on, powdercoating bonds better than paint does, bonding directly to the metal rather than to a primer layer.
The material bakes down to a harder consistency than paint, and forms a thicker layer, thus has a longer lifespan is and is more difficult to damage;
It flexes better, thus if the metal underneath it gets bent or damaged, it is more likely to stick to the piece and flex permanently with the underlying metal than paint (paint often chips or flakes off in such situtations).
And finally, because it's applied as a dry powder rather than as a liquid, it doesn't run or sag, like paint can.

To the naked eye, powdercoating often looks like paint, especially from more than a few inches away. Your frame, for example, is powder-coated. The only paints that have similar properties in terms of durability and lifespan are epoxy paints, and they don't have the advantages of perfectly symetrical coating the piece and flexibility if the substrate bends.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[SweetLou]

What temp do they bake it on at? I can't imagine that it would be greatly expensive to get the equipment if you could bake it on with a household oven. Ov course you would want to get a old beater oven, so that your cake did not taste like powder coat.

[ThAzKat]

do you have to put a wheel in an acid bath to get the PC off?

I have never tried to strip PC off before.

[The CyberPoet]

What temp do they bake it on at? I can't imagine that it would be greatly expensive to get the equipment if you could bake it on with a household oven. Ov course you would want to get a old beater oven, so that your cake did not taste like powder coat.

There are four basic types of powder-coating curing...
UV set - which sets as low as 212 degrees F, but is only good to about 165 degrees before it breaks down again.
Low temp thermal set - which sets around 325 - 350 degrees F.
High temp thermal set (old style) - 350 to 750 degrees F, usually around 500 degrees F.
And
High temp thermal set (sometimes called super high temp) which is pushed as high as 1000 degrees F, usually using an aluminum-ceramic mixture Jet-Coat is probably one of these.

Then there are eight basic powder types, some suitable for indoor use only, some for outdoor use, etc. Generally, motorcycle parts will use one of four coatings: Acrylic Urethane, GMA Acrylic Powders, Polyester TGIC Powders or Polyvinyl Fluoride (PUDF). The last is probably the best in terms of lifespan/durability/etc, but requires a chromate primer, which makes it more expensive to apply normally.

The biggest issue is whether whatever was used as the powder was cured correctly -- the easy way to check is to test a non-visible spot by rubbing it twenty times back and forth with a rag soaked in acetone. After the twenty-double-rub, the surface should not dull, misform or otherwise be different from the other treated portions.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[Zukiman]

I like. Must have.