Originally posted by shpielers
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I can't tell what your other posts says.
For any US katana without a jet kit, 2.5 turns on the air fuel screws is much better than stock. You can do an idle drop to find exactly what your bike will run best at (2.25, 2.75, etc) but 2.5 is a great starting point.1998 Katana 750
1992 Katana 1100
2006 Ninja 250
2006 Katana 600 RIP - 130k miles
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Originally posted by shpielers View PostI can't tell what your other posts says.
For any US katana without a jet kit, 2.5 turns on the air fuel screws is much better than stock. You can do an idle drop to find exactly what your bike will run best at (2.25, 2.75, etc) but 2.5 is a great starting point.
Sorry the bikebi got has Vance and Hines exhaust I'm cleaning carbs and noticed the pilot screws were way off one was at 7 other was at 6/1/2 and 5 and 3/1/4 so I was just wondering what do put the screw too after fully seating them
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Seat the a/f screw lightly, then back out to 2.5 turns from there.
Are you letting it warm up with the choke on? Is it stumbling o ly when the engine isn't warm yet? Is it always stumbling there even when it's warmed up?1998 Katana 750
1992 Katana 1100
2006 Ninja 250
2006 Katana 600 RIP - 130k miles
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Originally posted by shpielers View PostSeat the a/f screw lightly, then back out to 2.5 turns from there.
Are you letting it warm up with the choke on? Is it stumbling o ly when the engine isn't warm yet? Is it always stumbling there even when it's warmed up?
Originally posted by Myers2002 View PostThanks for the reply I let it warm the choke like doesn't work even when cold it barely goes to 1200rpm the screws are exactly at 2.5 and it sputters cold and warm
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Small world. My sister moved up to Medford right around then, otherwise lived in the bay all her life.
So does adjusting the choke ever make the rpms higher? It definitely should when the bike is cold and first turned on.
1200 rpm is what it should be idling at normally, without the choke (once it warms up at least)1998 Katana 750
1992 Katana 1100
2006 Ninja 250
2006 Katana 600 RIP - 130k miles
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Originally posted by shpielers View PostSmall world. My sister moved up to Medford right around then, otherwise lived in the bay all her life.
So does adjusting the choke ever make the rpms higher? It definitely should when the bike is cold and first turned on.
1200 rpm is what it should be idling at normally, without the choke (once it warms up at least)
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Read through this, not saying it will help you but it's worth a read
http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tunin...m_engines.html
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Originally posted by Myers2002 View PostThanks for the helpful advice
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Originally posted by Myers2002 View PostDefinitely a small world so in played a lil with choke this morning and its very touchy but I got it to high idle that's good. But I still have no low end power as far as taking off I have to ride the clutch to get it to go steady otherwise it just boggs then will smooth out when I'm on highway doing 80 it does good my commute is 60 miles round trip so it does well at high RPM just not low
Dude I so dont understand whats going on I have been riding bike to work all week 60 miles round trip bike rides fine in high gears I just dont understand why I get crappy milage and in first gear on take off if I give it too much throttle on take off it just chugs and almost stall then grabs and goes kinda embarrassing lol in town any suggestion I can try
Originally posted by shpielers View PostSmall world. My sister moved up to Medford right around then, otherwise lived in the bay all her life.
So does adjusting the choke ever make the rpms higher? It definitely should when the bike is cold and first turned on.
1200 rpm is what it should be idling at normally, without the choke (once it warms up at least)
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