[il_ragazzo]

wow i looked into Hilborn efi for my 1052 and it's more than 10 times what i bought the motor for and just shy of what i spent on my entire bike.
what filters are u running? some sort or pod filters for V stacks?

[suzukiray]

'Bout time there was some progress on this thing!!! Ray.

[ThAzKat]

Stop teasing! I want more now!

[katman1260]

well, many issues today..

have been experiencing binding with the TB's. The throttle shaft is tight. found contributing factors were plenum (only slight) and the fuel rail mount. I milled the mount hole a little and Woooop, there is it. Still have to figure out return spring action.
Running the fuel lines, pump, filters and regulator location is prooving to be taxing. I think I have that ll figured out now

[katman1260]

Nope, not figured out yet.
Got all the support rods and butterfly rod straight but the plenum is killing me.

Have to rubber boot the plenum which means completey redoing the plumbing.

My garage is jammed with bikes now and I have been busy putting on miles this summer. thousands of miles of mountain twisties to help clear the mind. Won't get back to the beast until bad weather hits.

[1990gsx 600]

no pics

cant see any pics NNNNNNOOOOOOOOOOO

[1990gsx 600]

http://www.suzuki-katana.com/suzuki_katana_projects.html

is this your bike????? i went to the link form the pics and it redirected me here

[katman1260]

http://www.suzuki-katana.com/suzuki_..._projects.html
is this your bike????? i went to the link form the pics and it redirected me here

Yes, That is my site.

[DaBlueSquirrel]

how hard would it be to put a bigger motor and turno a 06 kat?

[katman1260]

how hard would it be to put a bigger motor and turno a 06 kat?

Sorry can't help ya. I only have experience with the classics.

[DaBlueSquirrel]

Figured i would ask.. if i wanted to build my own think you would be up for giving some advice if needed?

[katman1260]

OK, going to have to do this right and start from the begining. I have been off track on this build for some time now as life got in the way. Now I am focused and things are moving forward.

It might be an idea for the moderator to delete this thread and start a new as everything covered (everything tech) will be covered again as this goes along?

PROJECT
1983 katana 750
1983 1100 engine
Simply digital systems EFI control system (fuel only)
Hillborn throttle bodies
Hand built turbo
Dyna 2000/4000 ignition
Digital keyless ignition
Digital Tach/speedo
1994 GSXR frontend
Bandit rear end
Relocating electrics under seat
Some frame bracing
LED lighting
HID head light
I had originally started this build with an R1 swingarm. I have decided to stay with the bandit arm as it looks cleaner and leaner. The R1 arm is done except for shock mounts but with the stock pegs it just looked toooooo busy back there for my liking. I'll save that for some rear set bike build down the road.

Well, that is the general list. Time will tell how much of it actually gets done.

First order of business is the frame. Is it straight... YEs.
Next, clean all the tabs and bits off I don't like (center stand mounts, rear brake res mount, battery mounts ect...ect...
After its all cleaned up, start figuring out where new tabs and mounts need to go for all the new goodies. Since I was relocating the electrics, a new under pan was in order. Getting the tail light to the right position under the tail is a bit of work being the stock mount is on the inner fender and is off angle.

For bracing I did a couple things:
Pic below: A triangle piece was put in to hide some wires. Also, with the under pan I dropped it lower up front so the harness wires and others could run above and not be seen. I also used a piece of stainless steel pipe .060" wall for the subframe. I used stainless cuuuuz, I polished it and it won't be getting powder. When done the frame will be powder nd it will be an accent polished piece as well as being some structural support.

A new battery box was in order. I use a YTZ14S AGM battery. It has 230 CCA which is needed for these old 1100s. It is also small enough to turn sideways in the frame. (5.93” x 3.46” 4.37”) and weighs about a pound less. These can be used in any position other upside down. (so I am told)

I pondered over the quesion of keeping the stock pegs or moving to "rear sets"... well, after changing my mind 12 different times I decided that my main complaint with the stock set is the rear master being in the middle of my now nice clean empty space. So, I decided to relocate the master and use a GSXR master. I am going to have to make a custom brake rod being the distance to the rocker/actuator is longer now. I will turn one out of stainless steel and thread it so it covers all the threads on the GSXR push rod. It was a lot of work to move it 2"!!! the reservoir is now in behind the side cover. I will have a sight window for it as well (later pics) It only took two days to figure out a spot for it. These kats do not have much wiggle room under what little plastic is there.

With the bandit arm, and stock peg stay, the brake pivot needs attention. I cut 1mm off the inside boss of the pivot allowing the pivot shaft to move out board to help clear the arm. Also, needed to redirect the lower foot with the brake stop and trim some too. In the pic the frame is on its nose for those trying to figure out the picture.

I didn't do any cross bracing in the airbox area this time however, I did beef it up some with a removable bolt in chunk of aluminum. It is a solid piece right now but there will be some design changes to come.

Most everything is tacked in so off to the tigmaster for completion in the next day or two. I am sure there will be further work to do but the major job is done and anything else I can do myself as the build goes on.
I will be completely building this beast before anything does to the beauty shop.

[katman1260]

Frame has gone to "tig city". Now is a good time to sort out the fuel delivery. With fuel injection there are many considerations.
- fuel pump
-40 micron pre-pump filter, 10 micron post pump filter
-fuel valve/or not
-return line into tank
-fuel rail feed
-kats have no gas gauge and running out and switching to res is not an option
-check valves
-hose routing
-fuel pressure regulator
-air bleed line from pump
-fuel pump amps, our 1100s have little to spare
Then I guess the consideration of how to get the tank off when needed without fuel dumping everywhere.
I am also considering a surge tank since the old tanks are so open and sloshy. I have had about 1/2 the experts line up on each side so I will make a decision and go with it.
It isn't plumbing it that is a problem so much as how it looks when it is done. My goal is as open a look as I can get without clutter. I have thought long and hard, spent many a minutes stairing, adjusting, moving, removing, readjusting and I think I have a plan.
I am going to use an sv650 fuel warning thermistor. I like those cuuuuuuz... they have to thermistors which will give me a low light and a critical warning light. They also thread in so I just have to weld a bung into the bottom of the tank, right beside my return line bung.
I am also doing a custom gas cap which may or may not be vented, so, aditional check valves will be needed if I go with non vented.
My fuel rail is 1mm from touching my side panels so I have two options:
1. modify the side covers to allow fittings in each end of the rail.
2. cap the ends, drill and tap the center of the rail running a "T" to incoming fuel and fuel regulator.

[il_ragazzo]

i'm glad your running into these problems before i do.
Why can't you run a RES switch?

[katman1260]

i'm glad your running into these problems before i do.
Why can't you run a RES switch?

Elaborate?

My goal is not run into a lean condition caused by fuel starvation. I am going to run two LEDs on my dash. One yellow for low condition and one red flashing LED for critical low. It's a pretty easy solution and I really like flashing lights. Unless of course they are in my mirrors....