[Mr.X]

sweet man one hell of a ride.

[Mojoe]

awesome project you have going. didn't get a chance to look through the whole thread, but I hope you had the foresight to brace up the frame. if not....well, you will see why when you open it up. even the stock version of the kat suffers from mild frame torque when you come onto it. with 200+hp, you will know soon enough if you have any stress cracks in your frame.

edit: nevermind...I saw on page 10 that you had it sent out to a welder. not quite the type of bracing I have usually seen, but doesn't matter as long as it works :

[katman1260]

Started on the tacho/speedo case today.
Last year I just cut a hole into a mounting plate and mounted the clocks but on this build I wanted something a little stylish so I went and got some 4 1/2" x 2" solid round aluminum. I had also mounted the led warning lights below the clocks which was not the best idea. With my full face helmet I could not see them unless I was looking down at the dash, so this time I am mounting them op top. Decided to incorporate them into the bezel itself. I will be using different colored leds as pictured. The three on top are OIL, HIGH BEAM, and a single SIGNAL indicator. Down and to the right will be my low fuel light and critically low fuel warning. For The OIL and critically low FUEL warning lights I am using blinking leds.
When I used this set of clocks last year I got caught in the rain a few times and was worried about the moisture as the back of the instruments are open. That is why I have enclosed it for this bike. I have yet to more a small hole into the back for the wiring and that will be siliconed up so no more worries.
To mount it to the bike I will be fabbing some plate aluminum for the unit to fit into and I will be mounting my new cheap gear indicator in the 3 o'clock position of the tach. I figure to machine a notch into the ring and fit it in like it was made for it. Wait, it is made for it. PIcs to follow.
To leave enough room under the clocks I had to figure out how to bolt the thing in. The threads on the back are short, so I had to make some loooooooong nuts. Worked like a charm.

sweet man one hell of a ride.

Thanks, Diggin that stretch. Looks good.

[katman1260]

Just about finished on my katana instruments. I just have to run the led wires and a couple others. Don't know what finish will be on them yet. Thinking powder, then some re-machining for some contrast. There is still some cleanup and finishing touches but she is basically done.
I ran hole through the back of the pod and installed a rubber gromet to protect the wires coming out and to inhibit moisture and dust from getting in. The leds I will be using will be the colored type. I used the super brights last time and that is not the way to go. I had to grind them flat to kill some of the brightness and they were still obnoxious. They will be set in with silicone to keep them in place and to keep moisture out in the off chance I get caught in some.
The gear indicator was tedious and took some time to make. But, for $6.00 I can't complain. I faced the gear indicator with plexi-glass. Counter sunk it and painted a frame around it on the inside surface. Don't need a neutral light now as there is a "N" on the gear indicator. Next job is the mounting plate and getting it onto the bike.

[hinow41]

Awesome build!

[katman1260]

Here are some wiring diagrams for those who plan to repair or replace the instruments on their katana. I found once I opened the clocks up that the wiring in the clocks do not match my service manual, so here is the result from pulling them apart. Hope it's helpful. Don't forget there is lots of tech info on my site as well.

[katman1260]

Wow, this has turned into lots of work. Picked up a piece of aluminum for the speedometer, tachometer mount. I will be machining off some of the ignition mount on the top triple since I am using a digital keyless ignition. It is in the way. I have the speedo mount roughed out and the rubber mounts done. I will be adding a bracket for the Yosh multimeter, and locating the set button for the clocks as well as installing an incondescent bulb for the low fuel light.
There seems to be a real problem getting the thing to work with an LED as the thermistor needs a current draw to help heat it up to allow current to flow, whereby turning on the light. So, I will use the incondescent bulb top right in conjunction with a second LED for critical low. This will be a flashing LED wired in parallel with the incondescent. At least that is the plan. I figure the regular bulb will cause curent to flow when the second thermistor is exposed to air which will in turn, turn on the led.
That leaves me with one extra light around my speedo, which I will be using for a head light off indicator. Since I am using a common bosh style relay for the head light, I can use the "normally on" contact to illuminate an LED showing me my head light is currently off. I can see myself forgetting to turn the thing one all the time which the police around here won't like, being daytime running lights are the law.

[katman1260]

Here is a diagram of how I installed my on/off headlight switch for my 1982 suzuki katana. This can be made to work on most bikes if you are familiar with your wiring.

I started with a standard Bosh style 5 terminal relay. Terminals 85 and 86 are for the coil of the relay. When power is applied to the coil it will make a connection between terminal 30 and 87. Power (12vdc) is brought to terminal 30 via a hot lead from the wiring harness. In this case an orange with red tracer. Without this relay on a stock katana the wire going to terminal 30 would be plugged directly into the wire connected to terminal 87. The relay is only acting as a switch between these two wires. In simple terms you could run each of these wires directly to a switch and that would turn your head light on or of. I am using a relay so I can utilize a light to tell me the head light is off.

The Bosh style 5 terminal relays have a normally closed terminal which is 87a. What this means is, the power going to terminal 30 is connected to terminal 87a until the relay is switched on by the power to the coil. This flips the relay to connect the terminals 30 and 87. When the power is switched off to the relay it switches back to reconnect terminals 30 and 87a. This is where the warning light comes in.

When I turn on the key, and my head light is off, the indicator light will come on because the relay is not switched on. After the bike is running I throw the head light switch on and that activates the relay turning off the indicator light and turning on my head light. I am also using a relay because my head light switch has 18 or 20 gauge wire and I am concerned it is not heavy enough to handle the current needed for the head light. I am using a switch that is incorporated into my right hand control.

[alchemist007]

dude go for it. If I had the same motorbike id definitely go for it.

[katman1260]

A buddy of mine gave me a fuel lamp indicator the other day.It is just what I needed for my low fuel warning light. With the system I am using (sv650 thermistor style low fuel warning) I apprently need an incondescent bulb to work with the thermistors. They don't seem to work with just resistors and led lights. So, I am working on a plan to use the incondescent for low fuel and a flashing led for critical low as the sv650 has duel thermistors.
The light my buddy so graciously gave me, is just rubber and plastic so I fabbed a housing for it to fit on the instrument panel. I still have some final contouring to do on the panel but it is very close now. I am waiting for a couple colored leds so I can finally have it all mocked up and then, figure out paint, powder, polish????

[katman1260]

Had a great day today. Threw the engine together, that is almost. After getting everything sorted and gooped with case cement, and put together, guess what happened? On the final torque of the main case bolts one stripped out. So apart she comes again, drill, helicoil, re-goop, rebolt and success... Yeeehhhhh, or almost. Three of the 6mm bolts let go this time. INcluding one of the deeeeep pocket ones that goes in from the top of the cases. Apart she comes again.

[katman1260]

These clocks are turning into a career for me.There was not enough room in to pod for the led wires to clear past the tach/speedo body so I had to figure out something else. I wanted to do a lower ring anyway so I hid the wires behind it. Today was real nice so I went for a long ride up the coast to clear some cobwebs out of my melon. Then, came home and tried to finish the clocks. Well, still don't have them complete. The backing ring took a while cuuuuuz! I had to machine it out of a solid piece. Then drilled and tapped some thread to afix it to the mounting bracket.
As you can see, I don't have the right size bolts but you get the idea. I still have to machine the lower ring to make room for all the wires for the speedo and tach. The wires you see in the pics are only the led wires. I may use a flashing red led for critical low and move the orange over to "head light on" indicator. That, or I need to find another color for it.

Didn't like the open back on the lower fuel light so I used a bar end plug. Just had to widdle it down slightly and cut a hole in the side for the wires. The light is weather proof but I think it looks cleaner that way.

Also, there is more contouring and clean up on the mounting bracket. I have decided to go with a combination of gloss and flat black paint, and polished aluminum for the final product.

[katman1260]

Got some more done on the tacho today. Added the plate for the Yoshimura multimeter and cleaned up some contours. It is still rough, though it is almost there. Final touches and detailing before paint and polish.

[mammut89]

nice

[katman1260]

Doing final touches on my billet sprocket cover. Have been working on this a long time. I am going to have two plates behind it to cover up the shift position wires and basic ugliness behind the sprocket as well as a cover for the starter and stator wires up to to clean that up and protect them. I am also going to make a cover for the shaft behind the cover to clean up the metal shaft look. May even anodize it.