[Trackerrrr]

Holy shiite! That is one worn out cam lobe!

[spatula6554]

Simple tests for the petcock...

Put a line on it to run into a container to catch any gas... Use a clean vacuum line attatched to the back. Use your mouth to apply vacuum then kink the line to maintane the vacuum when needed for the tests.

If fuel flows with no vacuum in RES or ON then = bad.
If fuel won't flow in PRI then = bad.
If fuel won't flow when in RES or ON with vacuum applied = bad.
If the vacuum leaks or fuel enters the vacuum line = bad.

Krey

TBD Sunday afternoon...

[spatula6554]

It has been a while...

Haven't actually tested the petcock...I would need the bike to do that.

I changed the oil and buttoned everything back up after I got back from MT in September. As it was idling to burn the oil off the pipes after the oil change, it seemed to be doing fine. After about 6 minutes, I heard a sudden CRUNCH and the bike just stopped. After some diagnosis at the shop, turns out the timing chain broke and wrapped around the drive sprocket 3 times, jamming it all in there; ended up breaking 2 exhaust valves, as well as chain guide and tensioner. It will be costly for parts...

[Mogg]

Wow, thats a hard luck story.
Just buy a complete running motor and drop in...that motor wants to be dead already.

[spatula6554]

So the admins will not like my making this thread a zombie but oh well; I hope to document my ever-changing relationship with my Katherina.

The local shop (M&A) finished the timing chain and valve work at the end of last season and it was running well then but the season ends quickly here in Southern Tier NY. Winterized...

Decided I needed to do the clutch for this season. Got myself a Haynes manual and an EBC clutch kit. I was stoked when it came in the mail so I soaked it in oil prior to installation and then got the old clutch out. As I was removing the old clutch, the clutch cover gasket broke so I needed a new one. I also noticed that the new clutch kit included diaphragm springs...which my bike does not use. So WTF? I took a closer look at the eBay listing; the title states that it would fit my bike but the description (which eBay does not search) states that it will fit a GSX 1100 G not F. The seller admitted that his advert was a mistake and is will take the wrong kit back and refund my money as well as pay for the shipping; kudos to a properly ran business on eBay, I was pleasantly surprised (Falkon Powersports in CA).

So currently, I am waiting for the proper clutch plates and springs but at least the clutch cover gasket came in today!! Also in is the lockwasher and another washer as well as the fuel level sending unit which is bad on my bike. I can also put my new bar end mirrors on which should be loads better than universal junk for the factory mounting location.

That will most likely be the majority of the work for this season...I have been dwelling on making my 1100 a SF over the winter. This would include tearing it down the frame and cleaning everything, powder coating, and checking every part as I put it back together. I have also been eyeing a new exhaust, the V&H SSR2 is really the only one available. I have some sort of D&D pipe with all sorts of holes and is very ill fitting; plus I don't like how it sounds.

Thoughts?

[johnnybad1]

EBC Clutch

I installed an EBC clutch kit - friction plates and springs - into my 88 yesteday and tested it out today. Real good clutch. Springs are stiffer than stock to but not too bad on the left hand. EBC is a good choice. Also installed EBC brake pads and they stop much better than stock.

[spatula6554]

Nice...EBC seems to be the concensus; they should hold up just fine!

[spatula6554]

The rest of my parts came in yesterday and I put it all together today. I thought I was home free but then as I was buttoning everything up, one of the clutch pressure plate studs broke. After a quick trip to Lowe's for 4 new bolts I put it back together only to realize I forgot to put the push rod back in place. Took it apart and put that on then realized I did not bend a tab on the lock washer down on the cLutch hub nut. Took it apart and did that then buttoned it all up. Of course, the second to last Allen head stud for the clutch cover ended up stripping out...hopefully I can tap that to the next size up to get a proper seal with the gasket. Right now, it doesn't seem to be worth wasting the oil to test whether or not it will seal.

Got my bar-end mirrors on as well; they look good. I hope they stay, the Loc-tite should help.

The wife got a new camera since our old one died; hopefully a couple of pictures will be on the way.

[Wild-Bill]

...The wife got a new camera since our old one died; hopefully a couple of pictures will be on the way.

You didn't bounce the old one off her head like Gold did, did you?

[spatula6554]

You didn't bounce the old one off her head like Gold did, did you?

I would have been quickly bounced to the street if I did...

[spatula6554]

So, an update.

I finished the clutch install, changed the oil, checked the plugs and tested it. It was great. My sister was having her wedding Memorial Day weekend in Niagara Falls area so I took Friday off and rode the bike up there from home for the long weekend. 1.5 hours in, around Batavia, it downpoured...aside from 2 years old, I never had water pool like that in my pants on a bike.

Bike ran great all weekend until Sunday when I headed back home. It seemed like there was a bit of a shimmy at higher speeds so I checked the wheels. Turns out the cotter pin for the rear axle nut had disappeared so I ganked one from my dad's garage, tightened the nut and headed home.

About 2/3 of the way home around Sonyea on the 390 interstate, I was cruising along at 75 MPH and all of a sudden the bike just lost power...it was missing on at least one cylinder but it would get it back and then lose it again, backfiring and surging all over the place. I pulled in the clutch to see if the engine could run on its own and it instantly drops to 0 RPM. So there I was, coasting down the hilly section of the interstate at 70 MPH, semis and cars passing me, thumbing the starter hoping the engine will start back up. Thankfully it did. I tried the same tactic about 10 minutes later hoping it was better and same result. I tried it a third time but this time I could not get it started it again. So I pulled over and waited...it finally got started about 10 minutes later on the side of the interstate.

I figured I just needed to get home so thankfully it sputtered its way back to Corning. By the time I got off the ramp, it was fine! Whiskey Tango Foxtrot?

Anyway, I get it home and my car is in the garage for the weekend. I wedge my bike in there and then realize, "I am stinking lazy." I start walking the bike out but all of a sudden it starts falling towards me! I save it, get it back up and stationary. I lean over, verify that the kickstand is down and out, then begin to put it back on the stand...it starts to lean over and where the kickstand engages the pavement, it promptly falls to the ground away from me. Left side bar end mirror = junk. Clutch lever = banana. Fairing = slight scuff.

I have barely touched it since...I ended up getting sick/flu from the busy weekend. The ensuing hot weather did not help for the next week. Maybe I lost faith in the bike or maybe in myself but I am prowling KR again, slowly gaining ambition and motivation. Not to mention saving money for a house, bike parts and my wife's wanton desire for a trip to Iceland this August.

She is a fickle mistress...

(the bike and my wonderful, beautiful wife)...

[spatula6554]

So last I left off, the bike was sputtering and losing power at speed.

Turns out it was a badly kinked fuel line. The old line was about 2 years old and urethane; very soft, pliable and ran short. I got some 1/4" black rubber nitrile line and kept it long enough to create a loop in each line which turned back to the petcock from the carb. This should prevent any future kinks.

When I took the carbs off, I noticed that the airbox was not even on Carb 2 and 3 and loosely attached to Carbs 1 and 4. I hooked up the airbox correctly and also bench synced it at this time using the holes in the bottom of the carb throat as guides.

Currently, the bike is not idling correctly. I started with the bench sync and the A/F screws at 2.5 turns out. This was lean, resulting in a high idle around 4-5k RPM and hanging there and dropping slowly after a throttle blip. I got ambitious and pulled them to 3.5 turns out. This resulted in very rich; responsive throttle but bogs down at lower RPM. 3.0 turns resulted in much better but it was running really lumpy. Turns out Cylinders 2 and 4 weren't firing while I ran it at 3.0 turns out.

My theory is that the plugs were fouled; anyone else have a theory? I will be pulling them tomorrow night to verify.

Secondly, where can one source the adapters for the 1100 carb sync? A Morgan Carbtune is currently not in the budget but some plastic tubing is.

[Wild-Bill]

http://www.z1enterprises.com/Vacuum-Carb-Sync-Adapter-Kit-5mm-3263.aspx

They show as out of stock right now. Give them a call and see when they'll have more.

I went to Bike Bandit looking for a set for my bike a while ago. (I couldn't find the ones that came with my CarbTune.) Their photo shows all 4 that you need but for $10 they only ship one adapter. Yep, that's right. $10 for one threaded brass tube and you need four. I was all set to head to the hobby shop for some tubing when I noticed the little pocket on top of the Carbtune case. Doh!

[Kreylyn]

So last I left off, the bike was sputtering and losing power at speed.

Turns out it was a badly kinked fuel line. The old line was about 2 years old and urethane; very soft, pliable and ran short. I got some 1/4" black rubber nitrile line and kept it long enough to create a loop in each line which turned back to the petcock from the carb. This should prevent any future kinks.

When I took the carbs off, I noticed that the airbox was not even on Carb 2 and 3 and loosely attached to Carbs 1 and 4. I hooked up the airbox correctly and also bench synced it at this time using the holes in the bottom of the carb throat as guides.

Currently, the bike is not idling correctly. I started with the bench sync and the A/F screws at 2.5 turns out. This was lean, resulting in a high idle around 4-5k RPM and hanging there and dropping slowly after a throttle blip. I got ambitious and pulled them to 3.5 turns out. This resulted in very rich; responsive throttle but bogs down at lower RPM. 3.0 turns resulted in much better but it was running really lumpy. Turns out Cylinders 2 and 4 weren't firing while I ran it at 3.0 turns out.

My theory is that the plugs were fouled; anyone else have a theory? I will be pulling them tomorrow night to verify.

Secondly, where can one source the adapters for the 1100 carb sync? A Morgan Carbtune is currently not in the budget but some plastic tubing is.

I would suggest investing in a carb a/f adjustment tool (right angle screwdriver basically) and use the "drop down" method to tune the a/f screws where they need to be for your bike.

Krey

[spatula6554]

I would suggest investing in a carb a/f adjustment tool (right angle screwdriver basically) and use the "drop down" method to tune the a/f screws where they need to be for your bike.

Krey

Forgive my ignorance, but "drop down" method? Me to the ground or the screws?

http://www.z1enterprises.com/Vacuum-...-5mm-3263.aspx
They show as out of stock right now. Give them a call and see when they'll have more.

I went to Bike Bandit looking for a set for my bike a while ago. (I couldn't find the ones that came with my CarbTune.) Their photo shows all 4 that you need but for $10 they only ship one adapter. Yep, that's right. $10 for one threaded brass tube and you need four. I was all set to head to the hobby shop for some tubing when I noticed the little pocket on top of the Carbtune case. Doh!

That is absurd...good thing your powers of observation never cease to amaze.

They are also on Amazon for less than $15. Would it also be possible to put the adapters in and tube some hose out from them, then plug them and keep them out of the way during normal operation? It seems like a prudent option to me...

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-SyncPRO-Brass-Adapter/dp/B000OO4PVM/ref=pd_sxp_f_pt"]Amazon.com: Motion Pro SyncPRO Brass Adapter Set - 5mm 08-0013: Automotive[/ame]