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Hard Starting When Warm

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  • #16
    Relay mod

    Originally posted by dannyh982 View Post
    I had a very similar problem as the OP. Bike would start fine in the mornings or after cooling off a while. Found coil voltage would drop to 10.5 volts when hot. I did the relay mod and it fixed my problems. Sometime I may try to actually find where the voltage drop is but for now the mod works great.


    There is a relay mod?

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    • #17
      A forum filled with write-ups, FAQ's, and visual aids for
      mechanical & cosmetic modifications to your Katana.
      1998 Katana 750
      1992 Katana 1100
      2006 Ninja 250

      2006 Katana 600 RIP - 130k miles

      Comment


      • #18
        I kind of got lost half way through. The way it looks is that the power comes out from the battery through the fuse then through the relay. Power goes onto the coil and it is grounded via the M6 bolt. I would assume that there has to be a link to the kill switch. That is where I am a bit lost. Either that or I can run a line from the battery, though a toggle, through a fuse to the coils. I am afraid of cooking the CDI. Having an independent toggle would let me give it a boost only when I need it to help starting.

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        • #19
          It is linked to the kill switch via the coils. The existing wiring going to the coils is connected to the kill switch. You place one of those connections onto your relay. This is what triggers it.
          As long as you have a fuse installed, you shouldn't have to worry about your CDI. I just did mine and I have very little electrical experience. Pretty easy. Haven't measured voltage curl recently being delivered to the coils, but pulled out the voltmeter to do so next time I work on it.
          1998 Katana 750
          1992 Katana 1100
          2006 Ninja 250

          2006 Katana 600 RIP - 130k miles

          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by shpielers View Post
            It is linked to the kill switch via the coils. The existing wiring going to the coils is connected to the kill switch. You place one of those connections onto your relay. This is what triggers it.
            As long as you have a fuse installed, you shouldn't have to worry about your CDI. I just did mine and I have very little electrical experience. Pretty easy. Haven't measured voltage curl recently being delivered to the coils, but pulled out the voltmeter to do so next time I work on it.
            Then I misunderstand. I thought part of this was running power directly from the battery positive to the relay then relay to coil. Is it the kill switch activating the coils that trips the relay? Also, he instructions mention using a two blade relay. Where can I get such a relay? What do I ask for? Years ago I could get all kinds of goodies at Radio Shack, but not so much anymore.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by shpielers View Post
              It is linked to the kill switch via the coils. The existing wiring going to the coils is connected to the kill switch. You place one of those connections onto your relay. This is what triggers it.
              As long as you have a fuse installed, you shouldn't have to worry about your CDI. I just did mine and I have very little electrical experience. Pretty easy. Haven't measured voltage curl recently being delivered to the coils, but pulled out the voltmeter to do so next time I work on it.
              I think I get it.

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              • #22
                A relay is the switch.


                Power to the relay to trigger the switch is done by using an existing wire from the coils (orange, white stripe). When you turn the key on, power to this wire activates... triggering the relay, to send the primary power to the coils.


                Krey
                93 750 Kat



                Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

                "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by shpielers View Post
                  It is linked to the kill switch via the coils. The existing wiring going to the coils is connected to the kill switch. You place one of those connections onto your relay. This is what triggers it.
                  As long as you have a fuse installed, you shouldn't have to worry about your CDI. I just did mine and I have very little electrical experience. Pretty easy. Haven't measured voltage curl recently being delivered to the coils, but pulled out the voltmeter to do so next time I work on it.
                  OK. Black wire (ground) from either 31 or 32 to ground. Power out from relay to coil from 45 or 46 to coils. I am that far. The orange wire on the coil (from kill switch, I assume) to the 31 or 32 that you are not using (which turns power on and off). Then power from battery to the other 45 or 46 not used yet.

                  As for the other kill switch wire do we leave that on the coil? Wouldn't it be better to combine the two kill switch wired to go into the relay?

                  I have no idea which is the best relay, where to get and where to get an inline fuse holder.

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                  • #24
                    Any auto parts store should have the relay, wire, spade connections, and in line fuses. (Aka everything you'll need)
                    1998 Katana 750
                    1992 Katana 1100
                    2006 Ninja 250

                    2006 Katana 600 RIP - 130k miles

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Relay

                      Found that the local Radio shack has a 40 amp 12v relay in stock. I can't see how many terminals.

                      It is labeled as:

                      switch 87 30

                      coil 86 85

                      The how-to mentions that another kind of relay was preferred. Can someone elaborate?
                      Last edited by TripleKing; 12-22-2014, 08:11 PM. Reason: additional info

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                      • #26
                        Have you checked for the drop in voltage yet? Like cleaning all of you connections and switches. Befor you do the mod. Mine was a poor connection at the CDI and the fuse box.
                        "I'm sorry, I didn't mean to upset you when I called you stupid. I thought you already knew..."
                        spammer police
                        USAF veteran
                        If your a veteran, join the KR veterans group

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by 92xjunker View Post
                          Have you checked for the drop in voltage yet? Like cleaning all of you connections and switches. Befor you do the mod. Mine was a poor connection at the CDI and the fuse box.
                          I was going to do that during the holiday, but if the mod can get me 12v and costs about $20, why just do it in addition to checking and cleaning connections.

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by TripleKing View Post
                            Found that the local Radio shack has a 40 amp 12v relay in stock. I can't see how many terminals.

                            It is labeled as:

                            switch 87 30

                            coil 86 85

                            The how-to mentions that another kind of relay was preferred. Can someone elaborate?
                            I used this exact type.

                            Junker is right though, it is best to find out exactly where your voltage drop is occurring, and actually fixing the issue(s) be it cleaning or replacing wiring/connections
                            1998 Katana 750
                            1992 Katana 1100
                            2006 Ninja 250

                            2006 Katana 600 RIP - 130k miles

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              I look at it this way, the wiring is exposed to the elements and getting or is old and starting to decay, ignoring the problem with a patch doesn't fix the problem only allows it to get worst. Soon the problem will effect something else on the circuit. Finding and fixing the problem extends the life of the loom.
                              "I'm sorry, I didn't mean to upset you when I called you stupid. I thought you already knew..."
                              spammer police
                              USAF veteran
                              If your a veteran, join the KR veterans group

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Only reason I was going to pick up parts prior to cleaning and testing is that I live in the sticks and it is almost a 40 minute round trip to get to either parts store or Radio Shack, but pass both to and from work the next two days and I am off until 1/5/15 after that. Supposed to be a warm Christmas here in NEPA

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