Clutch help please!! Lever won't move!

[Poody]

I hate posting new threads for little problems like this but this is the only thing keeping me from finally riding this thing.

I can't get my clutch lever to move. I have adjusted the cable/actuator multiple times per the DIY to no avail. The lever is "I can't pull it with both hands" stiff. I got it to move 1/8" and then the lever snapped in two. This was with the longer post 98 clutch pin installed. I have the cable routed up from the cover, over the engine, through the guide under the steering hear, and to the lever.

This is a 93 600 frame with an unknown year post 750 engine and pre sprocket cover. With the post pin installed, the actuator screw was tight until it was almost all the way unscrewed, with the pre pin, it doesn't hit "high resistane" until the screw slot is below the top of the female threads and I can no longer thread the retaining nut onto the screw. I have cleaned and lubed both the cable and actuator mechanism prior to installing, checked to make sure the clutch plates weren't stuck, checked for grooves in the clutch basket, and I don't know where to go from here.

If anyone has any ideas on where to go or what to check from here, post away. I'm really looking forward to taking my bike out finally after all the blood, sweat, and tears that have gone into it over the past 2 months.

[steves]

The cable might be frozen in the sheath. Rusted tight. Get a new cable.

But first check the adjustment on the clutch. http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=64698

[Poody]

I'll order a new cable, but it's not frozen, it slides freely in the sheath and I've made sure the actuator moves when the cable is pulled.

Just to clarify I'm adjusting properly:
In neutral, give the clutch cable some slack, back the actuator screw out, thread the cable adjust on the sprocket and lever in all the way. Tighten actuator screw until HIGH resistance is felt, then back it off 1/4 turn. Adjust bolt on sprocket cover to achieve 1/4 cable free play.


So I've done that twice with either clutch pin, and just out of curiosity, also tried the adjustment on the actuator screw with the lever pulled in to see if that made a difference. Felt a slight improvement in the feel of the pull, like if I had a complete lever it might actually work.

Let's define what "high resistance" should feel like. I'm cranking that screw down until I can't turn it any more, then backing off slightly and setting the nut. Is that correct?

[shpielers]

I think you're screwing it in too far. When I'm doing adjustments, I seem to recall it going from super easy to turn to what I would call some resistance, not high resistance. That link posted for the adjustment procedure doesn't mention high resistance either. I'm pretty sure you need to use the post pin in a post engine.
I'd try adjusting again with way less resistance, check and see if the lever moves, and go from there.

[HS2020]

Not sure if the pins are different or not between the pre and post clutches. As for high resistance you dont screw it all the way in til it stops. you screw it in till you feel resistance then back it off a quarter of a turn. Now I have a pre98 750 and I did not back it off because of how my bike is. I turned it in till I felt the resistance and left it like that. I wrote the how to after I shot the worm gear out the side of my bike from doing it incorrectly. Make sure that worm gear is not screwed up and the pin is in place. Also do not pull the handle in while adjusting the corase one at the cover. This will mess up the adjustment. If you want the 1/4 inch of play place a nickel between the lever and the perch and turn the coarse adjusment till it holds the nickle in place. This will give you the play you need then use the fine adjustment at the lever to get it fine tuned. If you still are having issues my number is 615 four nine 8 four 2 six 3. Call me and I will walk you thought it.

[maniac1886]

Yah, I usually go about a 1/2 turn in when i feel resistance build, then a 1/4 turn out. It sounds like you got it in too far and its acting like the clutch is already all the way in. When you pull the clutch, it pushes that adjustable rod in, so if you crank it all the way down, you have effectively "pulled in the clutch" with the lever all the way out. When you try it again, dont expect it to be perfect the first time (dont be like me and put everything back together including the plastics) almost everytime I adjust my clutch it takes me 2 or 3 adjustments on that screw to get it exactly where i like it. Adjust it, feel the clutch, then start the bike and take it to the end of the driveway or something.

[Poody]

Straight from the DIY:

3rd take that screw and turn it in til you feel HIGH resistance then back it off 1/8th to 1/4 turn on the adjustment screw and lock the nut down at this point. Be sure to use the screw driver to hold the screw in place when you lock down the nut with the 10mm wrench.

The only difference in the pins that I could see was the length. Post pin is slightly longer and with it installed, the clutch wouldn't engage. I'll go unscrew the adjuster some and see if the clutch will disengage properly