Ways to Widen the rear rim/tire with little to no modification.

[GanjaGreg]

So i know this subject has been covered many many many times... but i seem to have a difficult time finding said threads when i need them so im just gonna ask here so i know and have a personal source i can refer back to..

Looking to widen the back tire, currently running a 150 rear but looking to move up to a 170 on my 600.

Ive read all about kreylyn's customized rear end with the 180 rear but i think a 180 is probably too wide for my 600. Plus i could never pull that off without paying him to do it and im poor hah.

so i guess my option would be the post kat rear rim with a 170? what will need to be done to make this work?

[Kreylyn]

The cheapest option with little to no modifications...


Katana 4.5" rim with a pre 750 swingarm.


The 600 swingarm is a tad too short and puts the tire to close or rubbing on the brake arm and or swingarm.


Krey

[GanjaGreg]

The cheapest option with little to no modifications...


Katana 4.5" rim with a pre 750 swingarm.


The 600 swingarm is a tad too short and puts the tire to close or rubbing on the brake arm and or swingarm.


Krey

Ok so with a post rim, and a pre 750 swingarm i can run a 170 , no other mods?

[Kreylyn]

Ok so with a post rim, and a pre 750 swingarm i can run a 170 , no other mods?

Nothing serious. Minor tweak bend on the brake arm perhaps if you need a little additional clearance. Super easy to do that. I would suggest you use the spacer on the left side between the carrier and swingarm from the post wheel, along with a post carrier and rotor and internal parts (spacer, cushions).


After that, everything should match up and you have a safer clearance for the swingarm for little to no mods.


Krey

[GanjaGreg]

Krey, also should i run a taller shock from say for example an r6? or is the stock 600 shock with 750 swing arm ok?

[Kreylyn]

Krey, also should i run a taller shock from say for example an r6? or is the stock 600 shock with 750 swing arm ok?

There is no difference really in the length of the shocks.


The r6 is actually shorter, and will lower the bike by 3/4".


Going up in the rear would be better for sportier handling.


I use a modified 2nd Gen Bandit 1200 shock that I got Tmod to adjust. It raised my rear by 1 3/4". Stock the b12 shock will raise it by 2" and is too much for the geometry of the linkage (hard parts touch!).


Krey

[GanjaGreg]

Nothing serious. Minor tweak bend on the brake arm perhaps if you need a little additional clearance. Super easy to do that. I would suggest you use the spacer on the left side between the carrier and swingarm from the post wheel, along with a post carrier and rotor and internal parts (spacer, cushions).


After that, everything should match up and you have a safer clearance for the swingarm for little to no mods.


Krey

Thank you this should help alot

There is no difference really in the length of the shocks.


The r6 is actually shorter, and will lower the bike by 3/4".


Going up in the rear would be better for sportier handling.


I use a modified 2nd Gen Bandit 1200 shock that I got Tmod to adjust. It raised my rear by 1 3/4". Stock the b12 shock will raise it by 2" and is too much for the geometry of the linkage (hard parts touch!).


Krey

hmm ok got my r6 info from another post i saw here, said it raised the rear 1 3/4" but what do i know.. I def want sportier handling , all have to look into that. in process of gathering all the parts i need so just making sure i get the right stuff

reason im going for the wider rear and probably wider front is because i get this sketchy feeling when i corner on the katana witha 150 dunlop rear sometimes i feel it breaking loose and i dont like that, I have rode bikes with wider tires and dont have this feeling so this is my hope..

[TRPUT]

Your problem is probably more to do with the fact it's a Dunlop than the width of any tyre. It could also mean you need to look at your suspension ... pump your funds / time into getting that right.

[GanjaGreg]

Your problem is probably more to do with the fact it's a Dunlop than the width of any tyre. It could also mean you need to look at your suspension ... pump your funds / time into getting that right.

you are right actually the suspension is on the to do list.. right fork seal is leaking and rear shock feels soft to me, my dads an old motorcrosser/road racer so we will figure it out, Just working on the over all project right now collecting the parts i need, already have another set of forks and a shock from a newer pre with less miles so plan on swamping to them once i get a new rim and im going with continental tires... Never had any problem with dunlops on the dirt but there new to me for the street.

the wider rim/tire is also for looks i should mention..

[KAT TOY]

the wider rim/tire is also for looks i should mention..

we knew that. I have used a Motion 170/60 on my post 750. didn't see any improvement over 160/60. never got close to edge like I did with 150/70. RaceTech springs for your weight make big improvement.

[Kreylyn]

Tire slipping is suspension and tires. Wider isn't going to get that any at all, except for getting a better choice in the wider tire.


A new rear shock made my sportier riding significantly easier, and gave a huge boots in performance.


I believe your remember of the 1 3/4" increase in height would be specific to my mention of the Bandit 1200 shock I had modified for my bike. That is the only 1 3/4" raise that would fit. No other shock stock form is going to make that specific height change. Everything else would be a different height change (stock R6 3/4" lower, Stock Bandit 1200 2" higher). With out a doubt, the stock R6 drops the tail 3/4". I have 2 of them, one mounted on Badfairie's bike currently.


What I noticed with a wider tire was a much smoother transitional feeling from upright to full lean. I still ride 2 Katana with skinny tires. I can tell a huge difference in the transition feel. The wider tire makes it much more confidence inspiring to me. With the other geometry changes I've made to my bike, with a 180 tire on a 5.5" rim... My bike has been much more stable. It still very easily dips into the turns when I tell it, but it also will very smoothly hold a line through the curve. The much skinny tires always makes it feel like it's dipping into the curve more than I want, and I see my riding do a lot of "wobbly" through the curves as it dips in/steer out /dips in/steer out... My lines and transitions are really smooth with the newer setup now. It's also so stable yes responsive to my body lean, that I can ride most curves at the speed limit with out touching the handlebars at all.


It's honestly not for everyone. My number one reason originally was the looks. I wanted a wider rim. The bonus of how it, for me... improved the riding on the bike, has been a huge bonus.


I've ridden with a few people who are active on this board. I'm not sure any of them would call me slow on that bike. I'm not out running the roads like a track or anything, but I certainly do enjoy the opportunity to ride these local roads that naturally have a pretty serious challenge to them... at a reasonable but FUN speed.


Krey

[shpielers]

+1 suspension and old/crappy tires are doing that. Run good tires and at least change fork oil/seals and it'll handle better. I've run Michelin pilot road 2,3, and currently 4. Never lost traction and I ride ~20k miles a year.
As far as the shock goes, it's a weak spring to start with. Getting a spring proper for your weight will do a lot of good too. Not as much as a rebuilt/revalved/resprung B12 shock, but enough to be noticeable.

[GanjaGreg]

+1 suspension and old/crappy tires are doing that. Run good tires and at least change fork oil/seals and it'll handle better. I've run Michelin pilot road 2,3, and currently 4. Never lost traction and I ride ~20k miles a year.
As far as the shock goes, it's a weak spring to start with. Getting a spring proper for your weight will do a lot of good too. Not as much as a rebuilt/revalved/resprung B12 shock, but enough to be noticeable.

Well the Tires are pretty new got about 2000 miles on them. The suspension i suspect is tired, Suggestions for the best shock to make the ride sportier in the handling department?

[Kreylyn]

Well the Tires are pretty new got about 2000 miles on them. The suspension i suspect is tired, Suggestions for the best shock to make the ride sportier in the handling department?

Modified 2nd Gen B12 (if you got the leg length).


Send it to Tmod, have him put the correct spring on it and make sure it's properly built, and reduce the travel of the shaft to reduce the height change and prevent the hard parts from hitting.


That would be my suggestion.


Krey

[TRPUT]

Well the Tires are pretty new got about 2000 miles on them.

Yes, but they're still Dunlops. In my experience and that of riding buddies, there are only a couple of Dunlop tyres that are better than average. Most are marginal to poor. Some are downright dangerous. Dunlop might have invented the pneumatic tyre, but just about everyone else has (quite literally) over-taken them since.