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Bikes back from the shop WTF

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  • #46
    Yeah I cant get synthetic for those prices either. Least not motorcycle synthetic. I can get 4 quarts of mobil 1 at times for like $30 if it is on a hard core sale but that is rare...
    I am a Penn State fanatic.
    Why is the sky blue and white? God is a PSU fan...



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    • #47
      This is what I'm saying...I've yet to see MOTORCYCLE grade oil for dirt cheap, or a filter for that matter. Please do inform is of where you get these 3 dollar filters that AREN'T just regular car filters that fit same threads. Cuz there is a whole thread about compatible filters BUT they aren't recommended since the flapper isn't designed with motorcycle pressures or heat in mind. I'm dying to see this, seriously.

      Maybe I am overpaying a bit but I just can't see how you can find oil and filters for dirt cheap FOR A MOTORCYCLE when the rest of us are paying much more than $20. And by all means if you have a shop that wants to do free oil changes..stick with it. But you may wanna inquire as to what oil/filters they are putting on your bike. Even if they get it wholesale as many do I don't see how or why they would provide free labor...unless of course they rip you off on another job and the free oil change is just lube for an anal reaming.

      I apologize if I'm coming off as a bit of an a-hole but this just sounds quite suspect and way too good to be true. Now on the other hand if you can prove this to be true or a source where we all may reap some benefits I will commend you.

      Even if you bought a case of filters online you can't get a reputable brand for anywhere near 3 dollars...more like twice that.

      And the "buy a 5qt jug an get a filter free" that's for automobiles...not motorcycles. I have NEVER seen any place throw in a free filter for a motorcycle with the purchase.of oil ESPECIALLY not anywhere.near 20 bucks.

      As was said you can buy Rotella which is suitable and ok to use since it doesn't have the additives that would.make your clutch slip but that's about the most cost affective way I've seen yet. And even if you did use an automotive filter, say wix or Napa for example...your still paying 5-6 bucks each..
      Last edited by crazycraven420; 01-29-2013, 12:27 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
      94 GSX600F, V&H 4-1 Supersport exhaust

      My daily driver build thread- http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=129561

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      • #48
        -Steve


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        • #49
          Originally posted by crazycraven420 View Post
          This is what I'm saying...I've yet to see MOTORCYCLE grade oil for dirt cheap, or a filter for that matter. Please do inform is of where you get these 3 dollar filters that AREN'T just regular car filters that fit same threads. Cuz there is a whole thread about compatible filters BUT they aren't recommended since the flapper isn't designed with motorcycle pressures or heat in mind. I'm dying to see this, seriously.
          I have used:
          * Purolator Pure One PL14612
          * Mobil M1-108 Made by Champion.
          * Bosch 3300 Made by Champion.
          WalMart SuperTech ST6607

          You can also use this: http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterXRef.html

          Average is 3-6 a filter depending on if I care to look for a sale or pay full price.

          Mind you I am putting these on a 675 which I run the hell out of on street and track. Without issues. Those are all used by plently of others at the track too

          Maybe I am overpaying a bit but I just can't see how you can find oil and filters for dirt cheap FOR A MOTORCYCLE when the rest of us are paying much more than $20. And by all means if you have a shop that wants to do free oil changes..stick with it. But you may wanna inquire as to what oil/filters they are putting on your bike. Even if they get it wholesale as many do I don't see how or why they would provide free labor...unless of course they rip you off on another job and the free oil change is just lube for an anal reaming.
          He said that that woudl do it for free with other work. it is not like there is any labor to undo a bolt and let it drain. Especially if other crap is being done with the fairings off. that said my local dealer charged me 96 for my oil changes that I now do for anywhere from 30-45 bucks.

          I apologize if I'm coming off as a bit of an a-hole but this just sounds quite suspect and way too good to be true. Now on the other hand if you can prove this to be true or a source where we all may reap some benefits I will commend you.
          Plenty of us have posted in other threads about oils, filters, and what to use to save costs. In the Kat I paid about $3.5 to $4 for a quart of oil.

          here is oil I used in Kat: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=493838_0_0_

          Even at full price 4 quarts is only $24 and it is often on sale like buy 3 get 1 free....

          Even if you bought a case of filters online you can't get a reputable brand for anywhere near 3 dollars...more like twice that.
          Sure you can. I buy my filters and oil in bulk start of every season now that I track. I had a case of mobil 1 synthetic that came out to be $6 a quart which was roughly a $5 savings. Because you overpay and cant find deals doesnt mean we cant...

          And the "buy a 5qt jug an get a filter free" that's for automobiles...not motorcycles. I have NEVER seen any place throw in a free filter for a motorcycle with the purchase.of oil ESPECIALLY not anywhere.near 20 bucks.
          Again most auto filters are fine for bikes. Oil is on sale all the time.

          As was said you can buy Rotella which is suitable and ok to use since it doesn't have the additives that would.make your clutch slip but that's about the most cost affective way I've seen yet. And even if you did use an automotive filter, say wix or Napa for example...your still paying 5-6 bucks each..
          Again you need to look more as plenty of us do it for the cheap.
          I am a Penn State fanatic.
          Why is the sky blue and white? God is a PSU fan...



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          • #50
            Well, from 2 points of view (black and white) I see the gray area. Thank you for the elaborate breakdown of my angry rant lol. A shitty day + "it adds 5 HP" comment set me off. I do apologize.
            94 GSX600F, V&H 4-1 Supersport exhaust

            My daily driver build thread- http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=129561

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            • #51
              You do realize the bike was designed and is recommended to only use sf or sg grade oil. The api states sn grade is 100 compatible with use in vehicles designed for sf or sg.

              You put way to much trust in this motorcycle specific bs. Only the Japanese have a motorcycle oil classification. Api and ilsac do not qualify out motorcycle vs automobile.

              Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2
              Last edited by numus; 01-29-2013, 02:25 PM.

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              • #52
                That's not true. Automotive oils contain friction modifiers which are not suitable for wet clutch applications. They can actually causing slipping and glazing.

                Additionally, the Katana is an oil cooled engine and therefore (generally) experiences higher oil temperatures than a conventional water cooled motor.
                -Steve


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                • #53
                  Yup you are right. Why would I actually read the manuals by the professionals and actually trust the industrial standards organization. Why would I trust all the research out there that says there isn't actually any real documentation that slippage occurs and most of it is word of mouth speculation and some of it is even passed out specifically by the oil manufacturers to try to get you to buy motorcycle specific oil.

                  Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

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                  • #54
                    Originally posted by numus View Post
                    Why would I trust all the research out there that says there isn't actually any real documentation that slippage occurs.
                    That is very possibly the dumbest shit that I've heard in years. Congratulations, you're clueless. Floriduh strike again.

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                    • #55
                      I think there has been members who would argue this and learned the hard way. The friction modifiers added do exactly what the clutch doesn't need, less friction. Works so well it can cause an older clutch to slip and burn. I have used Castrol reg oil in all my dirt bikes with no problems but they are a little beefier. What shop do you use in Tally?
                      Must read for carb tuners......http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_...m_engines.html

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                      • #56
                        Originally posted by arsenic View Post
                        That is very possibly the dumbest shit that I've heard in years. Congratulations, you're clueless. Floriduh strike again.
                        Why don't you stick to your carbs and leave chemistry to others. Oh Btw certain "motorcycle" specific oils contain more "friction modifiers" then standard friggen oil and even "automobile" oil.

                        Oh Btw. Ams oil basically says on their page this fiction modifiers cause more slippage is almost complete and utter bullshit. But we have already seen proof in your other posts that you are by far the most knowledgeable person on the face of this earth.


                        Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2
                        Last edited by numus; 01-29-2013, 02:53 PM.

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                        • #57
                          quote your sources, by all means.


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                          Originally posted by EmpiGTV
                          You know why you shouldn't hold in your farts? Because they'll travel up your spine and into your brain. That's where shitty ideas come from.

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                          • #58
                            Must read for carb tuners......http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_...m_engines.html

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                            • #59
                              Since neither of you are the OP, and you are arguing about something that's a tangent to the OP's conversation... any further posts off topic will be removed.
                              -Steve


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                              • #60
                                Originally posted by teddy View Post
                                quote your sources, by all means.
                                Already did one.. Ams oil
                                Originally posted by kevin2502000 View Post
                                I think there has been members who would argue this and learned the hard way. The friction modifiers added do exactly what the clutch doesn't need, less friction. Works so well it can cause an older clutch to slip and burn. I have used Castrol reg oil in all my dirt bikes with no problems but they are a little beefier. What shop do you use in Tally?
                                Hmm an older clutch... You mean like one that probably needs to be replaced anyway?

                                Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

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