[DreKat]

I never drain the gas but I do change the oil in the spring. Every spring I check the tire pressure and boost the bike from the car (do not start the car) I find that the extra kick fro the car battery helps start the bike after being stored all winter. If you have access to a ride on lawn mower then use that battery to boost the bike. If I dont boost the bike for the first time in the spring I end up having a drained battery that I have to put on the chager.

[Mozzy]

thanks for the input!

[hardlydangerous]

What?
seriously people, thats all you do when taking a bike out of storage....
no wonder I have such a good job that pays well.

FLUIDS need to be changed. Brake fluids attract moisture and need to be flushed once a year for best performance. Pads must be inspected and caliper slide pins, pad pins and retainers cleaned and properly lubed.
You need to chnge out the fork oil if it has not been done in a year or two
Tire pressure must be checked
You also want to make sure the wheel bearings are in good shape, you can do this quickly while you have the forks off to change the fork oil.
Its also a good time to grease and adjust the steering bearings
If you used a TRUE synthetic oil before it was stored then it will not need to be changed before you start riding, if it was regular oil change it, dont worry about the filter though.
If you properly filled the tank and used a bit of seafoam for stabilizer there is no need to drain the fuel tank. it is a good idea to drain the float bowls though to get rid of any sediments in there.

Cables and pivot points must be lubed, Shifter and brake pivots must be greased.
Clutch cable and cam in the sprocket cover must also be greased.
clutch lever and brake lever pivots must be greased
its a good time to check the front sprocket/seals for leaks to, as well as the chain condition and rear sprocket.
throttle cables and choke cables need lubed and adjusted, as well as some light engine oil under the throttle sleeve. Post 98 bikes need the speedo drive cable lubed with light gear oil.
check the chain adjustment and rear wheel alignment
change rear brake fluid, check the pads, clean and lube the caliper components
Swing arm pivot points/links need to be greased
check the air filter and exhaust for critters and thier nests
Make sure all the lights/horn are working
check all fasteners and make sure everything is snug.

its a good idea to clean and regrease the electrical switches with contact cleaner and dielectric grease

I also recommend everyone check the valve adjustment each spring before the riding season

[DreKat]

What?
seriously people, thats all you do when taking a bike out of storage....
no wonder I have such a good job that pays well.

FLUIDS need to be changed. Brake fluids attract moisture and need to be flushed once a year for best performance. Pads must be inspected and caliper slide pins, pad pins and retainers cleaned and properly lubed.
You need to chnge out the fork oil if it has not been done in a year or two
Tire pressure must be checked
You also want to make sure the wheel bearings are in good shape, you can do this quickly while you have the forks off to change the fork oil.
Its also a good time to grease and adjust the steering bearings
If you used a TRUE synthetic oil before it was stored then it will not need to be changed before you start riding, if it was regular oil change it, dont worry about the filter though.
If you properly filled the tank and used a bit of seafoam for stabilizer there is no need to drain the fuel tank. it is a good idea to drain the float bowls though to get rid of any sediments in there.

Cables and pivot points must be lubed, Shifter and brake pivots must be greased.
Clutch cable and cam in the sprocket cover must also be greased.
clutch lever and brake lever pivots must be greased
its a good time to check the front sprocket/seals for leaks to, as well as the chain condition and rear sprocket.
throttle cables and choke cables need lubed and adjusted, as well as some light engine oil under the throttle sleeve. Post 98 bikes need the speedo drive cable lubed with light gear oil.
check the chain adjustment and rear wheel alignment
change rear brake fluid, check the pads, clean and lube the caliper components
Swing arm pivot points/links need to be greased
check the air filter and exhaust for critters and thier nests
Make sure all the lights/horn are working
check all fasteners and make sure everything is snug.

its a good idea to clean and regrease the electrical switches with contact cleaner and dielectric grease

I also recommend everyone check the valve adjustment each spring before the riding season

and while you are doing all this Im out riding

Ive been doing it that way for 13years and with 2 different bikes and I never have any issues. Im not saying that all the above is not to be done but if you maintained the bike properally in the previous season then all you need to do is change the oil, check tire pressure, and install the battery.

[arctickat]

I would recomend getting a battrey maintainer if you are going to let your bike set for extended periods of time, i.e. over winter. you can get them for less than $30.00 U.S. it's better than spending more on a new battery every year.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Schumacher-SpeedCharge-Battery-Maintainer-and-Charger/13005742?sourceid=1500000000000003260410&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=13005742

[Scobydew]

Battery Tender makes a little 2Amp tender that seemed to work great for my Kat, it keeps cycling the battery rather then just a charger that tops it off. I had mine plugged into it for 8-12months due some issues I had with my bike, but when I finally got around to fixing it up the battery was fully charged and ready to run. and like artic said, they run less then 30$.

[SidewaysInto3rd]

The one thing I would suggest is this (because im going through it right now)

Definitely check the fluid in the masters and flush it.. If there's any gunk (coagulated fluid) in the master, there probably is some inside your calipers too. which means you need to take the calipers apart to clean them. Not sure if you can reuse the half seals if they are in good shape but that's your call. You may need to get a rebuild kit with new seals.

The way I see it, if you have rust or gunk inside your calipers you may as well be playing Russian roulette with your front brakes.

That being said, the bike I'm working on right now had been sitting for 2 years and probably neglected for 4. But if you change your brake fluid regularly, you won't have to get into this situation!

There's a very good caliper rebuild thread on here.

Good luck

[5forty2]

I change brake fluid on every vehicle i buy to dot-5, while it costs quite a bit more it doesn't absorb moisture from the air, therefore, no rust in the brake system.

[scottynoface]

I change brake fluid on every vehicle i buy to dot-5, while it costs quite a bit more it doesn't absorb moisture from the air, therefore, no rust in the brake system.

DOT 5 also solidifies if you don't get ridiculous amounts of heat into it...I strongly reccomend switching back to DOT4 unless you're racing.

[Suzukii600]

that orange bike sure is puuuuuurrrrty! all i do is put a little seafoam stuff in my tank, lube my chain... check filters, wash it up and ride. after one tank of gas with seafoam i change oil, and every time i change oil i inspect everything else.

[~Btech~]

alot of different views on here ...

my opinion is this:
its your bike, your life. every time you take it on the road, there is risks involved.
airplane pilots do a pre-inspection before every flight. truck drivers have a simular inspection to do.
the point is, that machine has around 80 or 80+ hp on two wheels. do you want to risk more by cutting corners?
you can be the safest rider on the planet,but if your bike is not sound(even though it may look it), theres the possibility of something going wrong. id take the time to check as much as possible just to insure not only a smooth ride, but a safe one.
ever seen what happens when you throw a chain at 50 mph? breaks go out on you when you need them? or how bout an engine seizing up while going 30-40 mph? just a few things to think about.
a little paranoid you say? maybe. ive seen some messed up s*** happen because guys didnt take good care of their bikes.
besides, you want to make sure that pretty bike stays pretty