[thetable]

Pads are cheap, rotors are expensive. Slap a new set of pads on there and ride on. Hell, slap an old set of pads on there, and ride on. I think my Kat has almost 60k miles on the rear pads. So they the pads might wear a little faster on the somewhat scored rotor, NBD.

[coreo19]

i guess im gonna have to stop mixing cars up with bikes...thats like the fourth time kreylyn has shut me down

[affliction]

I was riding metal on metal for a short time. I had a mechanic buddy replace the pads and do what he could machining the rotor down. Everything is golden now.

[Kreylyn]

i guess im gonna have to stop mixing cars up with bikes...thats like the fourth time kreylyn has shut me down

Really?...

Um.. Nothing personal or anything... Honest!

Krey

[md86]

When i bought my Kat oh ... 7 or 8 years ago , the rear pad was GONE , and it was metal/metal \m/ . One of the first things I did was replace the pads , but didn't bother with the rotor . I actually JUST replaced it because I put on a 98+ rim , and had no choice . You'll live . It'll STILL lock up the rear with a grooved rotor , trust me .
Edit : After looking at your pics ...... you'll be fine . I should show you MY old rear rotor . Had a groove in the middle that I SWEAR was about halfway through the disc . Seriously .

[Eyball]

Thanks for all the replies everyone. I feel better about this now. I put new pads on last night from the Suzuki shop and at the suggestion of my buddy I sanded the rotor he said it would help with squeeling. The brakes seam ok but I think it needs some time to seat to the rotor before they really grab well. I ordered some new aftermarket pads so I can do the front before it I end up in the same place with the fronts. They are good for a while though. I think I will change the fluid like suggested. Do you guys change the brake lines? The repair manual says every 4 years but that sounds excessive. Mine are fine and I think they are origional.

[Kreylyn]

Thanks for all the replies everyone. I feel better about this now. I put new pads on last night from the Suzuki shop and at the suggestion of my buddy I sanded the rotor he said it would help with squeeling. The brakes seam ok but I think it needs some time to seat to the rotor before they really grab well. I ordered some new aftermarket pads so I can do the front before it I end up in the same place with the fronts. They are good for a while though. I think I will change the fluid like suggested. Do you guys change the brake lines? The repair manual says every 4 years but that sounds excessive. Mine are fine and I think they are origional.

Yes, change the lines if/when you can.

They may not be cracked or leaking, but that doesn't mean they are not old, worn, and allowing for expansion to occur.

If the lines allow for expansion, then it takes alot more pressure on the lever, decreases pressure applied to the rotor, makes the brakes respond more "sluggish".

One comment I hear alot is how "That (insert any new bike here) stops great, and the brakes really grab well, alot better than my old bike." The usual assumption is it's "new technology".... not so much. Update your lines, new fluid, and clean your rotors... you might be amazed the difference.

Krey

[SKNL2]

Yea...even just a $7 can of brake cleaner can make your brakes feel much better! True dat, Krey.

[paul.miner]

You might check that the rotor hasn't coned. When I had rear brake problems my rotor was overheated and coned the rotor. An easy way to check is to see if the rotor is centered in the caliper (center of the edge of the rotor should align with the seam between the two halves of the caliper). This is a coned rotor, way off-center: http://www.blinkenbyte.org/motorcycl...f-center-2.jpg

[Eyball]

How hard and expensive is it to change the brake lines and do you still need the T box in the front to connect the two lines or can you run two seperate lines right back to the master cylynder?

[Kreylyn]

How hard and expensive is it to change the brake lines and do you still need the T box in the front to connect the two lines or can you run two seperate lines right back to the master cylynder?

1. Not Hard.
2. Around $100 for a set of stainless steel braided lines that last a lifetime.
3. You can get sets to run 2 lines instead of the 3 line stock setup.

Krey

[md86]

Biggest difference in braking I noticed was after putting in HH pads , then fresh fluid . I didn't notice a huge change with the SS lines . But I'd avoid HH pads in the rear , because with the "g" or organic pads , it's still easy enough to lock up the rear . Even with a severely grooved rotor .