[1LE]

Ugh, here's what that filter is: http://www.knfilters.com/search/prod...x?prod=SU-7592 The thicker donut in the picture is the piece that's laying inside the filter. Looks like it *should* indeed fit the opening on that plate. Funny thing is it managed to fall in apparently, yet is so tight a fit I can't pull it back out or even get it back in the opening.

The other really funny thing is that the bike runs great (at least once it's warm, it's overly rich until warmed up). I'm not experiencing any of the issues reported by other K&N users. I did get ahold of one previous owner (the second owner, I'm the fourth) and he said he did not change anything on the airbox, but did rebuild the carbs and adjust them to "get it running". I've not yet heard back from the 3rd owner, but I know him really well and he's not the kind of guy to modify anything. So, I suspect it's been this way from all the way back with the first owner... I'm guessing that first guy probably modified it, it then ran like crap so he sold it, and the second guy worked around it...

[skjeflo]

Well, yesterday I replaced the remnants of my clutch cable. Snapped at the lever end. Smooth like butter now!

[1LE]

Finally another nice day to tackle the air filter. Plan was to pull the K&N, find out what all parts I need to go back to stock, and then order those parts for installation this Spring. However, it did not go according to plan.

First, I tried getting at the airbox the "easy" way by removing the rear tank bracket. That was not easy, nor successful. Ended up with the frame covers all off, all the bolts out I could see and the bracket would not budge. Looks like it might be welded on, but hard to see for sure since my head won't fit inside the bike. Probably just as well as I have no idea how I would have held the tank up while unbolting and removing the filter from underneath it anyways.

So, I went to the Haynes manual method (remove the fuel tank). Easy peasy right up until it says to lift the rear of the tank and disconnect the hoses with a screwdriver. Tank rear only comes up 2 inches and stops. I can't see any of the diagrammed hoses anywhere under there. Actually, can't see *anything* under there but black plastic. Tank would slide back and forth a little before catching, but that didn't help.

After screwing around with all that for nearly 2 hours I gave in and just fixed the K&N. The part of the filter I can see looks to be in great shape, just the velocity ring fell in (According to the docs I found online, the one that I have is for stock airflow and fits from the inside. The "performance" airflow ring, which I don't have, is supposed to fit from the outside). Super tight fit, could not pull it back in by hand. Best I could do was get a small section started, then I was able to stick a large adjustable wrench (that just barely fit in the opening) in and pry (previous attempts prying with screwdrivers and hex wrenches were total failures). A couple good pries with that big wrench and the velocity ring suddenly popped into place. I gave it some good shoves and it didn't budge, so it obviously didn't just fall in from sitting there. Since I never plan on changing that ring, I ran a bead of super heavy duty glue around it on the outside. That should keep it from walking in due to vibration if that was the issue.

[buffalobill]

Just bought this swingarm for doing the famous Krey mod for 180/55 tires.
It's ugly now, but that's just surface rust.

[shpielers]

This was Monday

Rounded out my becoming squared off tires. How you ask? 517 miles of twisty CA roads. Awesome scenery, awesome weather, one of my best friends on his new FZ07, fantastic day.
PS that's 500+ miles on a kat that's already past 100k (102 maybe? Haven't been able to swap odometer yet) Treat her right, and she'll live a loooong life.

[1LE]

First ride of the year. First ride with the velocity ring put back in place too. Runs exactly the same as when it was bouncing around loose inside the filter.

I did learn something though. If the neutral light is on, but looks dim, you're not entirely in neutral... Rode out to church this morning no problem. Afterwards hopped on the bike, put it in neutral (I thought, felt like it went in fine), hmm, neutral light looks dim compared to the others, maybe the bulb is dying... Started bike, let out clutch, bike lurches, engine died... OK, try again. Re-selected neutral, light is bright, operated as expected...

[shpielers]

Huh. Maybe time for a clutch adjustment?

[Kat Floyd]

I never trust the neutral light. I ALWAYS let out slow and smooth till I know its in N.

[a572mike]

Ordered more parts! At some point in the past, the oil plug hole got stripped out on mine, so a previous owner drilled it out, re-tapped it, and put in a tapered thread plug, which leaked badly. So, I bit the bullet and ordered a new oil pan so I can fix it right.

[shpielers]

On the 1100 on Thursday, looked for air leaks, found a few, and plugged them up.

Friday on the 600, rebuild my forks, and swapped the racetech emulator gold spring for the blue spring. Also drilled the rebound holes out to 5/16", had incorrectly done 3/16" originally.

Today on the 600 got a new to me gauge cluster installed because my odometer was maxed out. Also installed LEDs in the cluster- waaaaaay brighter, super easy, awesome, and cheap upgrade. New odo was has 16k miles on it, be a while before I get this one maxed out.

Huge thanks to Brian (B-man) for the gauge cluster, and LED information.

[a572mike]

Resynced my carbs after replacing the carb boots. It finally idles right.

[Kat Floyd]

Got a new sprocket and chain set.
Steel sprockets with stock ratio and a nice X-ring chain

[dano68]

Started the girl today, and purrs like a kitten.

[a572mike]

Ordered more parts... Those little o-rings where the oil lines attach to the oil cooler...

[1LE]

Oil change day. Fresh drain plug gasket, 4qts. of Amsoil 10w40 "metric" and a new Suzuki oil filter.

Funny thing is that the oil level is at "F" after just the 4qts of oil. The guide I have says 4qts, so it *shouldn't* be surprising, but this is my 3rd oil change and first time the Kat actually went to full with 4qts...

Year 1 it took around 4.5qts to get to full (I had overfilled it with 4.8 initially due to checking level while still on the stand and had to take some out to get back down to F). Year 2 it ended up halfway between L and F after 4.2qts (was near L after 4qts, so I topped it with the remains of the extra bottle from that previous year). Somehow though, this year 4qts goes to full. Shrug. Apparently it's magic.