Did the low-cost frame sliders
I got the same sliders and they came surprisingly fast. I also cut off the shoulders so they would sit flat on the frame and had to grind away a little slider plastic to clear the weld on the frame. I was also reluctant to drill the frame but decided that drilling in the center of the frame member really didn't take away any strength, the strength of the member is at the edges. To make it even stronger than bolting through a hole I decided to tap both sides of the frame so a bolt would not compress the frame. I found my center and drilled a 1/8" hole to start. To make sure my through-hole was perpendicular to the frame surface I drilled a wood block with the drill-press at a perfect 90 to make an angle guide. with the block against the frame I slowly went through my existing hole and out the other side. Then I used a 17/64 and enlarged the holes. Now I put a 5/16-24 tap in the drill and ever so carefully tapped the first hole while holding the drill at the angle I determined with the drill bit. The tap was long enough to let me continue through the inner frame hole. Now the frame can not be squished with the bolt and the whole section should be just as ridged as before the hole was drilled.
The reason I used 5/16-24 was because of the availability of grade 5 fine thread bolts at my local home store, I wanted better than mild steel but not as brittle as grade 8. Also fine thread would work better by putting more threads in the thin frame metal. Unfortunately the thread on those 2" bolts was not long enough, I needed another 3/16" to thread through both sides of the frame and put a nut on the other side. I got out a 5/16-24 die and slowly worked some more threads down the shank with lots of lube, that grade 5 is certainly harder than mild steel! I had to drill out the sliders to get the bolt to come through farther and if I did it again I would have used 2.5" bolts with some spacers although a 1" spade bit drilled the plastic sliders quite easily. I used red loctite, threaded the bolts on and tightened them up. On the inside of the frame I used a thin jam nut just because I could find them and it was all that was needed in fact it probably wasn't needed at all. Plenty of clearance for a standard nut. I've now paid money and spent time on something I hope will never get used although you can rest your legs on them for a little stretch out on a long ride!
Sliders1.jpg Sliders3.jpg
Originally posted by suzuki99
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The reason I used 5/16-24 was because of the availability of grade 5 fine thread bolts at my local home store, I wanted better than mild steel but not as brittle as grade 8. Also fine thread would work better by putting more threads in the thin frame metal. Unfortunately the thread on those 2" bolts was not long enough, I needed another 3/16" to thread through both sides of the frame and put a nut on the other side. I got out a 5/16-24 die and slowly worked some more threads down the shank with lots of lube, that grade 5 is certainly harder than mild steel! I had to drill out the sliders to get the bolt to come through farther and if I did it again I would have used 2.5" bolts with some spacers although a 1" spade bit drilled the plastic sliders quite easily. I used red loctite, threaded the bolts on and tightened them up. On the inside of the frame I used a thin jam nut just because I could find them and it was all that was needed in fact it probably wasn't needed at all. Plenty of clearance for a standard nut. I've now paid money and spent time on something I hope will never get used although you can rest your legs on them for a little stretch out on a long ride!
Sliders1.jpg Sliders3.jpg
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