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Help!!!! Carb Sync Issues!!!

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  • Help!!!! Carb Sync Issues!!!

    OK HERES THE DEAL!
    i got the manometer hanging from the garage door.
    the gas tank is off.
    temp tank is a powerade bottle zip tied to clutch lever
    running at opp. temp.
    i started with the left side.
    i adjusted the screw and got it real close to even.
    then i went to the right side.
    i started adjusting the screw and it changed the idle... its cool i can fix that.
    but is also messed up the left side so i go back and adjusted it some more.
    it messed up the right side... finally i get them close so i go to the middle screw and try to work the two sets together.
    i can get the two middle ones to work together but it messes every thing else up.
    finally i get every thing close and try to idle it down then it starts running like crap. i look'd at the guage and every thing was way out of wack.
    any ideas?
    am i missing a step?
    i pluged off the vacuume line that goes to the gas tank.. was i suppose to leave it un-pluged?
    after 5 hours and a few gallons of gas i got ****ed and put the long flat head screw driver through the garage wall and gave up.
    any help would be great...
    thanks

  • #2
    your suppose to sync the carbs off idle, not at idle. that is the only real major thing i see your missing. Yes you do block that vacuum port that would normally go to the petcock. it is going to be close at best, not exact when you syncing.

    oh once you get the left side, leave it, do the right side, let it settle back down and do them together. it is easy to mess up the idle or it hang for a second because you are pushing on the throttle linkage.
    Last edited by BarMatt80; 05-08-2008, 08:43 PM.

    “Programming today is a race between software engineers stirring to build bigger and better idiot-proof programs, and the universe trying to produce bigger and better idiots. So far, the universe is winning.”

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    • #3
      off idle?

      could you define "off idle"
      i dont know what that means.
      thanks
      i will go get more gas in the morning and try again.

      Comment


      • #4
        idle is about 1100 + or - 100 rpm...... so off idle would be anything above that. I think it is recommended that you sync them at 1750 rpm. use your idle adjustment to get it up in idle, sync your carbs, BUT make sure you go out riding, and get your bike out to a good operating temperature and turn the idle back down where it should be.

        “Programming today is a race between software engineers stirring to build bigger and better idiot-proof programs, and the universe trying to produce bigger and better idiots. So far, the universe is winning.”

        Comment


        • #5
          ok i am gona guess on where the idle is because i dont run a tach.
          lol
          thanks

          it is so spuratic it will idle good for a min then go up or down on its owne.
          Last edited by ninabl; 05-08-2008, 09:36 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

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          • #6
            get a tach, that would be the first thing too do. How in the hell do you plan to do a sync without a tach?

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            • #7
              (off idle) 1700 rpms is what is recommended.

              You MUST snap the throttle closed after each adjustment. I does take some back and forth, but not that long.

              Running that long sitting still you need to have a hi velocity fan blowing across the oil cooler.
              Jesus, family, me. Psalm 121 Red Pill Mille Clip ATGATT
              '01 Aprilia RST 1000 Futura
              '08 Aprilia RSV Factory
              '11 Kawasaki KLR650
              I bought my first Kat in 1991, brand new, a red 600. No pics though.

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              • #8
                Now go pull that screwdriver out of the wall! You might need it to fix your watch!!!!

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                • #9
                  reading though this i have a question. It was mentioned above to block off the end of the vacuum line going to the petcock. Well on my 1999 kat 600 I thought that was also the carb sync vacuum port? It is in the same sport as the ports on all the other 3 carbs. If that is not the port to use for carb 4, where is it?
                  Thanks

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                  • #10
                    my vac. port to the tank comes from a diff. spot on the #3 carb. i have a 89 600 may be diff from yours.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by ninabl View Post
                      my vac. port to the tank comes from a diff. spot on the #3 carb. i have a 89 600 may be diff from yours.
                      all the carbs are the exact same casting, so technically it could be off any of the carb bodies.

                      get a second chance at it yet?

                      “Programming today is a race between software engineers stirring to build bigger and better idiot-proof programs, and the universe trying to produce bigger and better idiots. So far, the universe is winning.”

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        i gave up
                        i think i am going to check the valves and do adjustments if needed, then order my jet kit and pay someone to do the carb work
                        nick

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by arsenic View Post
                          get a tach, that would be the first thing too do. How in the hell do you plan to do a sync without a tach?
                          +1


                          Tok

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                          • #14
                            I see your problem. The instructions clearly state that you have to stick the screwdriver in the garage wall before you adjust the carbs. Not after.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Adequateman View Post
                              I see your problem. The instructions clearly state that you have to stick the screwdriver in the garage wall before you adjust the carbs. Not after.

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