Hey All How often do you adjust the valves? i'm a porsche head and it's normal for me to do it every 3500 miles.
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After every ride...just to make sure everything is ok...
Seriously I think they recommend after the first 600 miles...then at 2500...later at 5000...finally when you start hearing clicking coming from the engine ...also depends what engine you have and whether you have shims or adjustment screw...hopefully someone that knows what the heck they are talking about chimes in with factual information...arsenic, Cyber, BP, Waltari...etc...someone...anyone....Good judgement comes from experience, and often experience comes from Bad Judgement :smt084
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Originally posted by Jax View PostAfter every ride...just to make sure everything is ok...
Seriously I think they recommend after the first 600 miles...then at 2500...later at 5000...finally when you start hearing clicking coming from the engine ...also depends what engine you have and whether you have shims or adjustment screw...hopefully someone that knows what the heck they are talking about chimes in with factual information...arsenic, Cyber, BP, Waltari...etc...someone...anyone....
I'm reading it right from the 98+ Suzuki manual
Inspect valve clearance at:
600 miles
7500 miles
15000 miles
Thank you...
thank you very much
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Originally posted by ctandc View PostWhat am I ...chopped liver?
Sorry, you posted right as I was responding...so I decided to just keep it the same...Good judgement comes from experience, and often experience comes from Bad Judgement :smt084
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Originally posted by newride View PostHope you don't have bucket and shim.
what a stupid way to design a valve. Thank youGood judgement comes from experience, and often experience comes from Bad Judgement :smt084
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Originally posted by Jax View PostOnce again don't quote me on it and maybe someone with more experience can comment but the "bucket and shim" is supposed to be a more "stable" method...there are benefits, which once again hopefully one of the guru's will comment on...but in reading past posts the shim method makes it so you don't have to do a valve adjustment in the 7500 intervals...but again I could be wrong....
1. no screws or nuts to loosen up.
2. different leverage reduces deflection
3. fewer parts. less wear, less things going wonky.
However shims have their own problems.
1. Some bikes you need special tools. (well all suggest special ones)
2. You either:
a. keep a full set of shims on hand
b. have to run out and buy shims needed.
However you can keep old shims to use later if you can.
The plot is basically:
1. measure all valve clearances.
2. write them down.
3. remove shims from out of spec valves
4. measure (with micrometers) the old shim.
5. do the math (to see what shim should be in there)
6. repeat 3 through 5 for out of spec valves
7. Go to stealership with list of shims
8. hope they have them in stock.
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