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Valve Adjustment

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  • Valve Adjustment

    Hey All How often do you adjust the valves? i'm a porsche head and it's normal for me to do it every 3500 miles.

  • #2
    Service manual says every 7500 miles...

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    • #3
      After every ride...just to make sure everything is ok...

      Seriously I think they recommend after the first 600 miles...then at 2500...later at 5000...finally when you start hearing clicking coming from the engine ...also depends what engine you have and whether you have shims or adjustment screw...hopefully someone that knows what the heck they are talking about chimes in with factual information...arsenic, Cyber, BP, Waltari...etc...someone...anyone....
      Good judgement comes from experience, and often experience comes from Bad Judgement :smt084
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      nah nah nah nah nah nah JAX! (special thnx to sexwax)

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Jax View Post
        After every ride...just to make sure everything is ok...

        Seriously I think they recommend after the first 600 miles...then at 2500...later at 5000...finally when you start hearing clicking coming from the engine ...also depends what engine you have and whether you have shims or adjustment screw...hopefully someone that knows what the heck they are talking about chimes in with factual information...arsenic, Cyber, BP, Waltari...etc...someone...anyone....
        What am I ...chopped liver?

        I'm reading it right from the 98+ Suzuki manual

        Inspect valve clearance at:

        600 miles
        7500 miles
        15000 miles


        Thank you...

        thank you very much

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        • #5

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          • #6
            thank you all for your response

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            • #7
              Originally posted by ctandc View Post
              What am I ...chopped liver?

              Sorry, you posted right as I was responding...so I decided to just keep it the same...
              Good judgement comes from experience, and often experience comes from Bad Judgement :smt084
              Help Support Katriders.com via Motorcyclegear.com
              Welcome to KatRiders.com! Click here to Register

              nah nah nah nah nah nah JAX! (special thnx to sexwax)

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              • #8
                Hope you don't have bucket and shim.
                what a stupid way to design a valve.
                Thank you
                The truth knocks on the door and you say, "Go away, I'm looking for the truth," and so it goes away. Puzzling.

                From Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by newride View Post
                  Hope you don't have bucket and shim.
                  what a stupid way to design a valve. Thank you
                  Once again don't quote me on it and maybe someone with more experience can comment but the "bucket and shim" is supposed to be a more "stable" method...there are benefits, which once again hopefully one of the guru's will comment on...but in reading past posts the shim method makes it so you don't have to do a valve adjustment in the 7500 intervals...but again I could be wrong....
                  Good judgement comes from experience, and often experience comes from Bad Judgement :smt084
                  Help Support Katriders.com via Motorcyclegear.com
                  Welcome to KatRiders.com! Click here to Register

                  nah nah nah nah nah nah JAX! (special thnx to sexwax)

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Jax View Post
                    Once again don't quote me on it and maybe someone with more experience can comment but the "bucket and shim" is supposed to be a more "stable" method...there are benefits, which once again hopefully one of the guru's will comment on...but in reading past posts the shim method makes it so you don't have to do a valve adjustment in the 7500 intervals...but again I could be wrong....
                    Shim and bucket (or any variant) is more stable in that ;
                    1. no screws or nuts to loosen up.
                    2. different leverage reduces deflection
                    3. fewer parts. less wear, less things going wonky.

                    However shims have their own problems.
                    1. Some bikes you need special tools. (well all suggest special ones)
                    2. You either:
                    a. keep a full set of shims on hand
                    b. have to run out and buy shims needed.
                    However you can keep old shims to use later if you can.
                    The plot is basically:
                    1. measure all valve clearances.
                    2. write them down.
                    3. remove shims from out of spec valves
                    4. measure (with micrometers) the old shim.
                    5. do the math (to see what shim should be in there)
                    6. repeat 3 through 5 for out of spec valves
                    7. Go to stealership with list of shims
                    8. hope they have them in stock.

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