[Sacrificeeternal]

UPDATE!!!
So exciting I know. I was able to get what seems like two cylinders firing. Wasn't able to get bike to operating temperature. No longer dies when throttle is released, but does die when the bike is completely stocked. It doesn't feel or sound right, which is why I believe I only have two (or potentially three) cylinders firing. Responsive on the rpm side of things when not moving but slows way down when I have the bike in gear and am riding it.

I believe my next step will be to set up a remote gas tank so I can get straight lines to the cars, and I have a vacuum gauge to test the carbs with. I am not sure if the problem lies in the petcock or with the carbs, which is why I want to set-up with remote tank. As always, I am still very new to working on bikes, so if anything I've said makes you think it's a really obvious problem and are dismissing it because you believe I couldn't possibly be that dumb, please say something anyway because there is a relatively large chance that I had no idea it was a problem lol.

During my ride I was only on for maybe four minutes max, did not get to operating temperature. I do not believe it to be the spark plugs however I do not have any solid evidence pointing to that. I am now sure that there are no kinks in the fuel line, and I have taken out the fuel filters to have it go straight from the petcock to the fuel intake on the carbs. I will be taking pictures of the bike soon to see if visually there is anything I've done terribly stupid (i'd rather be heavily embarrassed and alive then believe my self to be right and dead)

As always, thank you to everyone who has said something so far, it is directly attributed to you that my bike has even gotten this far

[badwithcomputer]

pics of a naked 1100?

nvm found one! Looks cool!

Good luck with the cylinders, I was told I had 2 bad cylinders, turns out it was the carbs.

[Sacrificeeternal]

I'm hoping it is the carbs, that's what I believe it is (or something to do with not enough fuel.... still not sure until I build the remote gas tank)

[subforry]

It lives!!!!!!!!! I am excited for you.

One tip is pay attention to what is happening when you run it with the tank and air box off and watch for backfiring out the carbs. This indicates that carb is too lean.

Pulling the spark plugs should give a good idea about the what is sparking and what is getting fuel.

I tried syncing my carbs with other problems and just wound up making a mess. When I pulled the carbs I saw that butterflys were not adjusted. I used a small flashlight on the intake side and looked at the output side (of the carbs) and adjusted the butterflys until I couldn't see any light. Likewise the pilot screws can be adjusted by genitally screwing them in and then out the same number of turns. If there are no air leaks, no fuel problems, no spark problems, then the bike should run ok - not optimal but ok.

You mentioned a vacuum gauge, make sure you have valve inline to to act as a buffer/restricter, otherwise the gauge will jump all over the place.

[Wild-Bill]

...the pilot screws can be adjusted by genitally screwing them...

You just keep that sex talk to yourself. This is a family-friendly forum, you know!

[Sacrificeeternal]

So when I get the remote tank built (this weekend I get paid yay!) I know I will need to have the two fuel lines coming down, what about the vacuum line that plugs into the petcock, does that need to be connected to anything as well? What I had planned was a simple assembly with funnels to connect the fuel lines to and just run straight down to the carbs.

After I get the remote tank up, the ideal situation would be everything runs and it is either the way I am laying the fuel lines or the petcock on the tank itself that is the problem. Should that not be the case (as it often isn't the easiest problem) what process should I follow to error-check the carbs before pulling them off entirely and rebuilding?

I know I want to check with the airbox and tank off per subsorry to watch for backfiring, what next after that?

And is there a resource for how to pull spark plugs and check them?

and for subsorry, what type of valve inline to buffer/restrict? It's a get-up that a mechanic that's a friend of mine uses and it's a little homemade, so I am not sure what problem that may entail. It's essentially mercury hooked up to four lines on a ruler. Pretty ghetto but cheaper for someone with no moneys. I'll end up talking to him to to verify use but it's useful to know what I'm talking about.

I have to do this on break at work so I never have much time to browse the forums, otherwise I'm sure a lot of my questions have been answered. If there is an answer somewhere a point in the right direction for time-savings would be appreciated. Thank you for your input and help subsorry, you've been a huge asset to me.

[subforry]

happy to help. I am new to my Kat. We are kind of going down the same path.

My remote fuel tank has one line. I used a T connector to connect the two fuel lines and the remote tank.

Just cap/plug the vacuum line.

As for the gauge, I assumed you were using a traditional vacuum gauge with a needle. You know the round type of gauge. This is not required, in fact I think the mercury style are considered better. Sounds like the gauge setup from your friend should be fine as is.

Sometimes the kat riders wiki has the information you need. Here is the spark plug entry:

http://katriders.com/wiki/index.php5?title=Spark_plug

Carbs:

http://katriders.com/wiki/index.php5?title=Carbs_101

The first post from Kreylyn is a good trouble shooting list.

http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=126181&highlight=leak+boot+carb+sync

[Sacrificeeternal]

Thanks man, 'preciate it.

I just want to be back on a bike, it's been months and I don't have anything else. And I desperately love my big beasty. I've even considered bringing it to someone . Even the thought makes me shudder still.

I'm going to give it this weekend, after that I think I need a professional for time sake (paying people gas money to give you rides is more expensive then owning the bike, filling it, maintenance, and insurance. Ridiculous)

Also, I will be posting pictures for you guys

[Sacrificeeternal]

Bike was towed yesterday

[badwithcomputer]

you'll have to elaborate! did you give up?

[Sacrificeeternal]

No sir. I was told by a tow driver that I was ok to park where I was for another two weeks. He only meant one week. Towed my bike the day before I was gonna move it. I had talked to the supervisor of the lot and the tow driver, both assured me it was ok. Then I came home to it gone. Couple more hundred down the drain

[Wild-Bill]

Think I'd be having a word with those fellas. They tell you two weeks and then change their mind??!!

[Sacrificeeternal]

So I think the next step is to rebuild my carbs! Suggestions on rebuild kit?

[Wild-Bill]

$27.95 ea: http://www.newmotorcycleparts.com/fu...b_kit_suz.html
$23.06 ea but call. The photo isn't right but the part number is correct: [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Supply-Economy-Carburetor-Repair-18-9336/dp/B001KNYTM6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1349200434&sr=8-2&keywords=carb+kit+gsx1100f"]K&L Supply Economy Carburetor Repair Kit 18-9336 : Amazon.com : Automotive[/ame]

Or get busy with google...

[Sacrificeeternal]

Alright, so I have the carbs off my bike and am ready to start all the dirty work. Sorry for the long time, actually broke my jaw in two places and lost my place and my job, I'm thankful to be able to keep the bike though. Family wanted me to sell it. Notttt happening. Also, any suggestion on what to do if i want a new complete 4-1 exhaust system? Or who to talk to xD? And I also wanted to rebuild the wiring harness, but that and the new system cluster are after I get the thing running again. So far it seems like I need to take the petcock out and clean it, clean the carbs for now, rebuild if it still doesn't run (don't have any money for new parts right now), I need to replace the gasket on the mid pipe I have, as well as the gasket on the side if the engine because it seems to be leaking oil. Replace the two front fork seals and look into a new front brake caliper and pad. Need to replace the rear brake system potentially too, but they dont have any damage just old. Umm, need to replace the tank seal and need a new right mirror, haven't decided what I'm going to do about that yet. Battery died, which sucks because it was brand new but somehow the cells died out, and I dont have the proof of purchase so they won't let me return it sadly. Very frustrating. After that its mostly cosmetic stuffs. I'll be showing you guys as it comes along.