can anyone tell me the propper way to bleed the clutch?

[danp2630]

I have replaced the master cylinder and bled it, then at the line on clutch cover, then at the slave bleeder screw. Still does not disengage fully when the lever is pulled. Any Ideas what to do next? What all is involved in converting to a cable setup?
Any and all suggestions will be a blessing as I am starting to pull what little hair I have left out 1 by 1.(kinda hurts)

[Mojoe]

like I told ya in the pm, I never had to bleed mine, or do any clutch work period since I have owned the 1100, but I think you only need to bleed it at the slave.

bigkat1100 just went through some clutch issues, so maybe he has some info he can share.

[BIGKAT1100]

All I was doing is bleeding at the slave bleeder screw. That would usually straighten me up.

I would make sure the master cylinder is good. If it's not new, may not be a bad idea to get a rebuild kit for it.

You may really have a bunch of air in there. Make sure your bleeding process is correct (top removed from the master cylinder and topping fluid periodically)

I would also advise you to get a manual. They make things a lot easier. They're pretty straight forward and easy to understand.

Hit me back and let me know how it's going. If you need to, you can contact me via e-mail and we can go from there.

Let me know

[ROOSTER1127]

KEEP ADDING FLUID AND KEEP BLEEDING. YOU STILL HAVE AIR IN THE LINE. SOMETIMES IT TAKE A WHILE TO PUSH OUT ALL OF THE AIR POCKETS.

PUMP CLUTCH FOUR OR FIVE TIME HOLD IT IN AND BLEED. REPEAT UNTIL CLUTCH STARTS BUILDING PRESSURE. AIR WILL EVENTUALLY WORK ITS WAY OUT BUT MOST OF THE TIME IT TENDS TO CLIMB TO THE HIGHEST POINT.

[StevieB]

First, get some clutch leeches...

[Hillsy]

Get yourself a 20CC plastic syringe and about a 4 inch length of clear tube (I used some overflow tube that came with a battery) to put on the end.
Then 3/4 fill the syringe with brake fluid (suck it out of the bottle with the syringe). Then push the tube over the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder. Now you can use this to PUSH fluid into the slave cyl. You will have to experiment, but you should only need to open the nipple about 1/8 or 1/4 of a turn to get the fluid to flow in. Make sure you WITHDRAW some fluid from the slave cyl first so you don't have any air in the syringe tube (you don't need any more air in the slave cyl).
This method enables you to push the fluid up the lines (the opposite of normal bleeding) which means you're working with the air bubbles natural tendancy to rise and flow out into the resevior. You can also suck fluid out of the slave cyl with the syringe to ensure there's no air trapped in there.
It may take a bit of practice, but once you get the idea you'll be able to bleed your clutch / brakes in no time (you can also refill your syringe from your M/C resevior and use bugger all fluid in the end if you're real stingy....)

The beauty of this method is that you can just keep repeating the process of pushing fluid into the slave cyl until there's no bubbles coming out of the M/C.

I did my front brakes from dry (new lines) in about 10 mins and only used about 200 ml of fluid. Easy.